Bike is a 99 roadking with s&s, SE ignition, v&h true duals, and TW26 cams. I ride solo only 200lbs. country roads and highways.
I want a motor that is dependable and give me some more usable power (not drag racing)
I just added the cams last week (did it myself) and it made a impressive increase in power, but i'm still not sure that it is quite enough. My other bike has about 90tq and I would like to get this one at about the same spot. i'm debating on sticking with just the cams or if it is worth it to spend the $ for the kit and heads.
local indy suggested doing the cams, then if not satisfied doing a 95 kit (zippers 9:1) and some mild headwork. (not sure what type of headwork or gasket thickness)
anyone done this combo or have any idea what kinda #'s this makes? I was told that this would make tq. i'm hoping for 85-90 range in tq. or am I dreaming? I really have no idea what this will make. not really to worried abouthp I've been riding for about 24 yrs. but this is the fist time I've tried bumping up the motor.
thanks

 

With some good pipes. HP/AC and a good tuner and or dyno a 88'er with cams should get 85-90 TQ.

Here a good link that U can see, read, and learn what other touring bikers did to their motors and the #'s they got.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...r-baggers.html




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I would have ur stock jugs bored out to 96 inches with pistons that's around 400$ and big boyz does a street port for 299$ with a 30 thousands head gasket u should be happy

 

I have a 1999, and there's a couple of bearing issues, depending on your engine manufacture date; and some other cam chest concerns.

1. The bolt used to attach the drive sprocket to the rear cam could loosen and cause the rotational force to shear the cast key of the sprocket, causing engine failure. The design was changed to the splined setup that's used now, as well as a bigger bolt. Mine never had an issue, but the condition does exist.
2. The bearing used in the cam support plate for both the front and the rear camshaft was originally a ball bearing. The rear bearing failed due to the extra loading and the design was changed to use a roller bearing for the rear only.
3. The inner cam bearing is an INA manufactured one, with rollers spaced apart by a steel stamped "cage". Many here (myself included) prefer the Torrington bearing that has more rollers without the steel spacing cage.
4. The cam chain tensioners are a wear item, and seem to wear inconsistently. I pulled mine at 38k, and they were worn, but still OK, others have had them disintegrate much earlier, and cause lots of engine damage by being ingested into the

A: oil pump and scarring the cam support plate with a resultant loss of oil pressure
B: cam bearings
C: crank bearings

These are the worst case scenarios, and many have had their bikes run long and trouble free.

I weighed the options, and decided a gear drive and all new bearings was the best route for me. You have to pull everything out anyway just to change the rear cam support plate bearing, and to me it made sense to get the biggest bang for the buck by doing all the cam chest work at one time.

Along with the cam chest work, I decided that I would go ahead and get all the mods out of the way at once. I had the jugs bored to get to 95CI, and had a mild port and polish done to the heads. I had the valves redone, and had the high lift spring kit installed to use with the 54G cams (Andrews said it was very close, and I figured I would err on the side of caution. I used 10.25:1 cast pistons for a little compression bump; but not so much that compression releases would be needed. The Jim's Hydrosolid lifters were a good choice (IMHO), and I went with adjustable push rods.

I purchased the Power Commander III from Jamie at Fuelmoto, and Jamie preloaded it with a map based on my choices. Afterwards, I took the bike there for a true Dyno tune, and it really made a difference. The "port and polish" was the wildcard in the canned map; and it really smoothed out after the tune.

The biggest thing was picking out components for the build, and knowing what I wanted out of the bike. I didn't need to build a stoplight to stoplight horsepower monster; I wanted a solid touring bike while retaining decent gas mileage. I picked components to achieve that, and I'm still pretty happy with the results 50K miles later.

 

You should be able to get those numbers very easily. I did a 95" kit with polished/ported heads, SE throttle body and Andrews 37G cams. Dyno tuned at 102/102. The tune is going to be key.

Shakey

 

Get a good 2-1 exhaust and a good dyno tune & it will make all the difference in the world.
After my cam change & dyno tune I wasn't completely satisfied, so I then changed exhaust...I gained another 9hp & 8tq just by going with a 2-1 exhaust over a 2-2.