camera question
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,905
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, AL
camera question
My GF was asking what would be a good camera to carry while riding. Something that was simple, a point and shoot, fast shudder speed that could take decent pictures while riding. While smart phones have decent camera, I am thinking more of a digital "camera only", for this application. I have an older Nikon coolpix that doesn't handle the vibrations well and results in blurry pictures.
thanks
thanks
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
From: Plainview, NY
Shutter speed is relative to aperture and ISO, any of the high end point and shoot cameras will give you a decently large aperture (F number) and somewhat usable high ISO ability. Higher ISO will in plain english record the light quicker, the trade off is more noise and grain.
Every camera that you shoot on full auto mode is going to give you blurry photos while moving, they don't pick a high enough shutter speed to counter act both the movement of the bike and the background. You can try using sports mode... My suggestion is to learn to shoot in semi-manual and use "shutter priority" mode and set the camera to auto ISO to compensate for running out of aperture on a consumer camera. Use a shutter speed of no less than 1/250th of a second, 1/500th or above would be even better as the faster the shutter speed the better the camera will deal with stopping motion and vibration.
Maybe not the answer you wanted, but you're going to buy a new camera based upon others who shoot in auto mode and don't understand the Shutter/Aperture/ISO relationship...
Every camera that you shoot on full auto mode is going to give you blurry photos while moving, they don't pick a high enough shutter speed to counter act both the movement of the bike and the background. You can try using sports mode... My suggestion is to learn to shoot in semi-manual and use "shutter priority" mode and set the camera to auto ISO to compensate for running out of aperture on a consumer camera. Use a shutter speed of no less than 1/250th of a second, 1/500th or above would be even better as the faster the shutter speed the better the camera will deal with stopping motion and vibration.
Maybe not the answer you wanted, but you're going to buy a new camera based upon others who shoot in auto mode and don't understand the Shutter/Aperture/ISO relationship...
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,139
Likes: 87
From: Dallas,Tx
Shutter speed is relative to aperture and ISO, any of the high end point and shoot cameras will give you a decently large aperture (F number) and somewhat usable high ISO ability. Higher ISO will in plain english record the light quicker, the trade off is more noise and grain.
Every camera that you shoot on full auto mode is going to give you blurry photos while moving, they don't pick a high enough shutter speed to counter act both the movement of the bike and the background. You can try using sports mode... My suggestion is to learn to shoot in semi-manual and use "shutter priority" mode and set the camera to auto ISO to compensate for running out of aperture on a consumer camera. Use a shutter speed of no less than 1/250th of a second, 1/500th or above would be even better as the faster the shutter speed the better the camera will deal with stopping motion and vibration.
Maybe not the answer you wanted, but you're going to buy a new camera based upon others who shoot in auto mode and don't understand the Shutter/Aperture/ISO relationship...
Every camera that you shoot on full auto mode is going to give you blurry photos while moving, they don't pick a high enough shutter speed to counter act both the movement of the bike and the background. You can try using sports mode... My suggestion is to learn to shoot in semi-manual and use "shutter priority" mode and set the camera to auto ISO to compensate for running out of aperture on a consumer camera. Use a shutter speed of no less than 1/250th of a second, 1/500th or above would be even better as the faster the shutter speed the better the camera will deal with stopping motion and vibration.
Maybe not the answer you wanted, but you're going to buy a new camera based upon others who shoot in auto mode and don't understand the Shutter/Aperture/ISO relationship...
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 3,751
Likes: 459
From: Here and now
I use both a DSLR and a Point & Shoot. The point & shoot is a Cannon G-10. They are now up to G-16. It is pricey for a point & shoot but it is a workhorse with a very tough outer case. Mega pixels aren't as important the size and quality of the image sensor.
This pic was taken with my 14.7 mega pixel Cannon G-10
This pic was taken with a 4 mega pixel Nikon D2H.
This pic was taken with my 14.7 mega pixel Cannon G-10
This pic was taken with a 4 mega pixel Nikon D2H.
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Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,905
Likes: 66
From: Hartford, AL
Shutter speed is relative to aperture and ISO, any of the high end point and shoot cameras will give you a decently large aperture (F number) and somewhat usable high ISO ability. Higher ISO will in plain english record the light quicker, the trade off is more noise and grain.
Every camera that you shoot on full auto mode is going to give you blurry photos while moving, they don't pick a high enough shutter speed to counter act both the movement of the bike and the background. You can try using sports mode... My suggestion is to learn to shoot in semi-manual and use "shutter priority" mode and set the camera to auto ISO to compensate for running out of aperture on a consumer camera. Use a shutter speed of no less than 1/250th of a second, 1/500th or above would be even better as the faster the shutter speed the better the camera will deal with stopping motion and vibration.
Maybe not the answer you wanted, but you're going to buy a new camera based upon others who shoot in auto mode and don't understand the Shutter/Aperture/ISO relationship...
Every camera that you shoot on full auto mode is going to give you blurry photos while moving, they don't pick a high enough shutter speed to counter act both the movement of the bike and the background. You can try using sports mode... My suggestion is to learn to shoot in semi-manual and use "shutter priority" mode and set the camera to auto ISO to compensate for running out of aperture on a consumer camera. Use a shutter speed of no less than 1/250th of a second, 1/500th or above would be even better as the faster the shutter speed the better the camera will deal with stopping motion and vibration.
Maybe not the answer you wanted, but you're going to buy a new camera based upon others who shoot in auto mode and don't understand the Shutter/Aperture/ISO relationship...
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Tourer
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
From: Plainview, NY
I was panning the Crown Royal DP with a 1/60h of a second shutter speed as it was passing the #2 DP, background blurry, #2 blurry and CR car is sharp.
The only time you'd want a sub 1/100th of a second shutter is when your passenger is tracking the bike next to you. All of the nigh end Point & Shoot cameras will give you full control over the camera and a little knowledge goes a long way to making better photos...