winter hibernation and engines
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 64
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From: Alaska
winter hibernation and engines
Settling in for a long, hardy winter in Alaska..yeah, Alaska. I know, I know, but the riding is really nice here in the summer, only the season and the roads aren't forever ! At least I got to ride October 17th/46 degrees this year--which is the latest ever for me in 14 of them, but it's all gone now with highs in the low 30's right now and it only gets colder from here.
2001 Softail Standard Injected.
What's everybody's take on firing-up the engine during the winter once a month just to lubricate parts and get the engine hot to burn off "condensation" in the crankcase? Bike is off the ground on lift and heated garage in winter which is kept mostly around 40-50 degrees (yes, above zero that is
). Basically I run up the engine to normal operating temps with the bike in high gear on the lift (yes, secure) to put some kind of load on the engine. My thought is that it's better to start 'er up rather than let it sit not run at all during the winter to get oil recirculated and the valve train rockers in a different position rather than compressing the same valve springs for months on end.
In other words: is it wiser to leave the engine not turned over or to heat it up good once a month? I've heard somewhere that to run an engine without a serious load on the drivetrain isn't so great since it never gets hot enough and a cold/cool running engine causes the most wear.
Opinions? Experience?
2001 Softail Standard Injected.
What's everybody's take on firing-up the engine during the winter once a month just to lubricate parts and get the engine hot to burn off "condensation" in the crankcase? Bike is off the ground on lift and heated garage in winter which is kept mostly around 40-50 degrees (yes, above zero that is
). Basically I run up the engine to normal operating temps with the bike in high gear on the lift (yes, secure) to put some kind of load on the engine. My thought is that it's better to start 'er up rather than let it sit not run at all during the winter to get oil recirculated and the valve train rockers in a different position rather than compressing the same valve springs for months on end. In other words: is it wiser to leave the engine not turned over or to heat it up good once a month? I've heard somewhere that to run an engine without a serious load on the drivetrain isn't so great since it never gets hot enough and a cold/cool running engine causes the most wear.
Opinions? Experience?
Last edited by michla; Oct 23, 2014 at 10:10 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,255
Likes: 112
From: Florida
In my opinion, a cold start is a cold start. Doesn't matter if you wait a month or 6 months. Our Minnesota winters may not be quite as long or severe as yours, but I simply fill the tank with non oxy 91 gas and add 5 oz of Sea Foam and go for 5 mile ride to run in the Sea Foam. Then put on lift and plug in battery tender and leave it sit until Spring. If a rare 50 degree day comes along and the roads are dry, I'll take the bike off the lift and go for a ride. Then put back on lift and plug in tender. Again, JMO.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 3,293
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From: PA
Do not start the bike unless you are going to ride it and get up to operating temps ( which I'm sure with being in Alaska won't happen till spring). Just letting it idel on the jack won't do it.
There will be no harm from letting it sit unstarted for the winter
There will be no harm from letting it sit unstarted for the winter
Road Captain
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 610
Likes: 62
From: White Bear Lake, MN
I agree with the posters above...
Since your storage area is never below freezing, the condensation issue is largely avoided already. It's the back and forth between freezing and thawing that really gets the moisture happening.
A full tank of stabilized fuel is best on injected bikes--carbureted bikes can benefit from an occasional start up, because some tiny pilot jets are likely to crust up if they sit too long and dry out from evaporation. Injected bikes are not nearly as susceptible to this problem.
Battery tender is also your friend.
All the best,
Shane
Since your storage area is never below freezing, the condensation issue is largely avoided already. It's the back and forth between freezing and thawing that really gets the moisture happening.
A full tank of stabilized fuel is best on injected bikes--carbureted bikes can benefit from an occasional start up, because some tiny pilot jets are likely to crust up if they sit too long and dry out from evaporation. Injected bikes are not nearly as susceptible to this problem.
Battery tender is also your friend.
All the best,
Shane
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,180
Likes: 12,755
From: South Carolina
Either that, or the cast iron top on my table saw doesn`t know the rule....
Condensation is certainly an issue in above freezing temperatures.
Just throw an old sheet or blanket over the bike (or saw) and it will be fine.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 610
Likes: 62
From: White Bear Lake, MN
Wasn't trying to state any rule...although stable temperatures tend to cause less condensation buildup than big temperature swings past the freezing point. If you've ever seen a half-full (bike) gas tank when the temperature comes up in the garage, the condensation on the outside is quite obvious--much more than in any temperature-controlled room.
Regular ambient humidity is plenty to rust your table saw top.
And yes, a sheet or blanket helps as well.
Just responding directly to his concern.
Thanks for the perspective.
All the best,
Shane
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,584
Likes: 520
From: VA
Two things I would add to the list if it were to be parked for an extended period. Put a tablespoon of oil in the cylinders and turn the engine over by hand to spread it around. Put plastic bags secured with rubber bands over the end of the exhaust.
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