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General Topics/Tech TipsDiscussion on break in periods, rider comfort, seats and pad suggestions. Tech tips as they become available will be posted here.
Again I can't read. I first thought external because he was worried about appearance. Then reply about engine bolts, I thought I read rocker arm, not cover . My mistake
But still back to my original post, if you go to stainless fasteners useanti seize. Thought thread locker may help for gauling, have to read up. Lubed bolts require less tq too. Those were my points.
Again when it comes to engines I like factory bolts, because I don't have to research type of metal used. But my bikes are not show.
Years ago, before Harley went to nicer head bolts, there were claims of leaks when people only replaced outer bolts. One theory was different heat rates for expansion.
Granted sometimes stuff leaks, and you did disturb it.
Primary is commonly changed, and those are dry, if I recall right, for factory bolts.
You can look up the amount to decrease. You could argue for things like primary, probably doesn't matter. But I would read up first.
I do think 12 point might look cool, and less likely to ever strip. But you also don't see the primary as much. Same with rocker cover bolts, most cannot be scene. I got chrome bubbling on a cover too.
I did last time put all the hardware through parts washer and scrub.
12pt ARP stainless on rocker covers. Looks good i think. Allen head stainless for primary cover. Don't think the 12pt have enough clearance on the top center primary. Rocker internals got black oxide. Use the supplied flat washers.
Or use OEM. Don't cheap out on hardware
Just finished doing some work in my cam chest. While reinstalling the rocker cover bolts, I noticed that they were rusty. I cleaned them up the best I could with a wire wheel and a drill. I was looking at these bolt cover/topper kits on Amazon, It seems that they basically are glued on with silicone. Are there any kits that snap on?
Jim
If you are looking at metal covers, they are called schrauben bolt covers. All over flea bay and amazon.They have metal prongs inside that grab the bolt head. However, I would still use RTV on them so they don't rattle off. For some reason, aside from the chrome ones, the black are anodized and will turn brown form heat after awhile.
The toppers just seem fake to me, and a hassle every time want to work. Plus they can fall off.
Replace the fasteners, either stainless or just new
If you go stainless look into anti seize to prevent gauling. Also back of torque setting if it is normal dry. There are formulas for when you add lube. It's not a lot, I think like 10%. Which for many things you might not notice.
But I would read up and people selling the hardware may be able to help if you email them.
But don't do the press on fake nail route.
I've though 12 point might look good, and not less likely to strip.
They are fake.
Stainless only needs blue LT.
If you are stripping a 6 point SHCS, take it to a shop and have them do the work..
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