Stainless steel isn't rust proof. It's only rust resistant.

 

300 series SS is pretty good. 400 series not so much.. I've got 300 series stuff that is 20 years old and still looks good.

 

Friends don't let friends use Hot Toppers.
ARP stainless for the win. I have almost $600 invested with ARP on my bike in stainless and Chromoly.

 

Here ya go

 

Tightening 1/4-20 to those belt specs, will require that you have a few helicoils / time serts on hand..

 

The purpose was to show the application of thread locker

 

Understood.. Just pointing out what I consider an error in the manual..

 

It all depends on what SS grade you get. The 400 grade will rot, but the 300 grade will last quite a while, and give you a chance to defeat any corrosion that may start.

ETA: I seem Max beat me to it

 

Use type 316 grade 8. Or source from ARP. Quality fasteners

 

While I'm no expert, I've played with fasteners and machining of stainless for a while.. Everything I've read says that 304/18-8 and 316 area about the same.. Composition is close but 316 had 10% nickel instead of 8.. It's more expensive, has better corrosion resistance than 304 / 303 but is pretty much the same for tensile and yield strength.. More like grade 5. Not sure you can boost 316 to grade 8. The big issue is that both can be work hardened. Depending on the manufacturing how the part is made can make a big difference in tensile/yield strength..

ARP, I think uses something close to A286 or 17-4 stainless but they claim to be using 300 series SS..