Oil change
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 3,443
Likes: 2,457
I think gas going stale is your biggest issue. As far as changing oil, does it really hurt to sit a couple of months if the oil is in good condition?
I've been watching some reruns of Mecum and Barrett-Jackson car auctions lately. I see many older cars with low mileage, but in perfect condition sold. IIRC a 1998 Corvette with only 7000 miles sold. I had to ask myself, how many oil changes have been done on that car over 27 years? How many miles has this car been driven a year? Do they drive it enough when they start it to get it up to temperature and expel moisture? Does anyone here know?
What if you only put on 1000 miles a year, but ride at least 40 miles twice a month, and always ride your bike for an ~hour and always with oil at operating temp (200*+) so any moisture gets fully expelled. Do you really need to change the oil each year? What if your bike never sees freezing temps in your garage? What about your transmission oils, which have a longer mileage service interval, but generally reach lower operating temperatures than engine oil?
At minimum, run some Stabil or other quality fuel stabilizer through your system, and be sure to store it with a full tank of gas. And, don't start and run your engine for a few minutes in the garage, that's the worst thing you can do. Put your battery on a tender if your bike is newer than an early 90's bike.
John
I've been watching some reruns of Mecum and Barrett-Jackson car auctions lately. I see many older cars with low mileage, but in perfect condition sold. IIRC a 1998 Corvette with only 7000 miles sold. I had to ask myself, how many oil changes have been done on that car over 27 years? How many miles has this car been driven a year? Do they drive it enough when they start it to get it up to temperature and expel moisture? Does anyone here know?
What if you only put on 1000 miles a year, but ride at least 40 miles twice a month, and always ride your bike for an ~hour and always with oil at operating temp (200*+) so any moisture gets fully expelled. Do you really need to change the oil each year? What if your bike never sees freezing temps in your garage? What about your transmission oils, which have a longer mileage service interval, but generally reach lower operating temperatures than engine oil?
At minimum, run some Stabil or other quality fuel stabilizer through your system, and be sure to store it with a full tank of gas. And, don't start and run your engine for a few minutes in the garage, that's the worst thing you can do. Put your battery on a tender if your bike is newer than an early 90's bike.
John
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,071
Likes: 1,006
it depends upon how **** you are.
IF (?) you maintain your machine and sure there will be no particulate dropping out the oil, it will not hurt. BUT, if your maintenance is lacking and you suspect drop out, then change the oil right after a long run to get as much particulate in suspension so that it leaves with the oil. i have seen on machines left wanting a sludge build up that sometimes requires a mechanical cleaning or a solvent cleaning.
i have never bought not one single drop of so called motorcycle oil nor automotive oil, i use a series 3 oil designed for heavy equipment and long runtime hours. the issue here with automotive is that most newer engines are more hydraulic in nature and you cannot get a 0w20, so i compromise as much as i can with a 5w30. even the newer diesel are going lite on weight requirements these days, shoot the newer fuels are near gasoline now, great cleaning solvent in cost compared to nearly twice the cost of others.
IF (?) you maintain your machine and sure there will be no particulate dropping out the oil, it will not hurt. BUT, if your maintenance is lacking and you suspect drop out, then change the oil right after a long run to get as much particulate in suspension so that it leaves with the oil. i have seen on machines left wanting a sludge build up that sometimes requires a mechanical cleaning or a solvent cleaning.
i have never bought not one single drop of so called motorcycle oil nor automotive oil, i use a series 3 oil designed for heavy equipment and long runtime hours. the issue here with automotive is that most newer engines are more hydraulic in nature and you cannot get a 0w20, so i compromise as much as i can with a 5w30. even the newer diesel are going lite on weight requirements these days, shoot the newer fuels are near gasoline now, great cleaning solvent in cost compared to nearly twice the cost of others.
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