Assuming you are talking about the main shaft bearing race...

From reading this forum, there have been many who had the same problem as you.

I, and a few others on this forum, simply used a dremel with cutoff wheel to remove the race from the main shaft. I cut 2 lines on a diagonal from oposite sides of the race. It was too close to the race to cut completely, but once I had cut a good bit away, I then used a chissel and broke the race apart. Be careful to cut away as much as possible so you don't have to apply too much force when breaking it apart.

There is a one piece high torque bearing that Baker sold me which I installed in place of that two piece bearing/race. This one is pressed into the inner primary cover then slips right onto the main shaft. Made installation very simple, and had no need for the inner race installation/removal tool.

 

Edited: The new bearing uses a different seal which seats on the main shaft itself. Baker has both the seal and bearing for sale as a kit. See my post below for the link to Baker's online store and that bearing kit.

The new seal installs into the inner primary cover, on the tranny side with the 'lip' facing out or toward the tranny, spring side in or toward the clutch side, after placing the new bearing in. The new bearing uses the snap rings to hold it in place. One on each side of the bearing in the primary case. Thats why the old bearing race would 'walk', no snap rings holding it, just holding the roller bearing in place.

I used the original snap rings which I removed during disassembly, simply replaced them before and after pressing the bearing in place. Just be careful not to twist or warp them when removing. HD suggests to use new snap rings, and of course that is always best to avoid error. That brings up another suggestion...

Place the first snap ring into the inner primary on the clutch side, then press the new one piece bearing in from the tranny side of the primary case. Make sure you support the snap ring when pressing the bearing into the cover, so that it doesn't get moved during the time you press the bearing into the inner primary cover. Use just enough pressure to push the bearing against the snap ring, don't over do it. Then put the second snap ring in after pressing the bearing in, then the seal.

I simply used two large sockets, a bolt and nut with washers, to press the bearing in. One to suit the diameter of the outer bearing race, and another to support the snap ring inside of the primary cover opening, pulling them together by tightening the bolt and nut.

In actuallity, the new bearing is a sealed bearing, but that only keeps the bearing lube inside its casing. The new seal keeps any fluid that might pass by the bearing from escaping the primary cavity.

Sorry for the lengthy description, just want to be clear. If I have confused you, please ask me to explain further.

 

After reading your post telling about the OEM seal seating on the inner race, it may be a good idea to check with Baker, to see if it is a different seal. I didn't think about it seating on the inner race. Baker does sell that bearing I'm speaking of so I'm sure they have the correct seal also. I think they charged me something like 35 bucks.

Here is the link to Baker's online store and that bearing with the seal...
http://store.bakerdrivetrain.com/Ite...aring&incl_m=F

 

What don't make sense here is running the seal on a dry shaft. The bearings not sealed but shielded which will allow some primary lube in. Wouldn't it make more sense to pop the shields off both sides of the bearing and let it run in primary oil and at the same time lube and cool the seal lips? Seal won't last long run with practically no oil. Just curious wtf I'm missing here with this setup.
Ron

 

The new seal is a 'double' lip seal, and I can see your point of the two different hardnesses (shaft vs. race). I'm sure that makes a difference to some point, but I'll have to defer to the expertise of the designers since I'm just an installer. The new bearing just slips onto the shaft, with no resistance that I felt, so there may be some seepage of fluid to lubricate the seal.

If you are asking about loctite on the end threads holding the primary bolts and main shaft nut, YES, use the red loctite to hold them in place. But I wouldn't put any on the bearing inner diameter if that's what you meant. This is where I would imagine the seepage would come from to lube the seal, if thats the intention of the designers.

In the manual, there were 7 primary case bolts (installed inside the primary case), which needed Black RTV Slicone High Temp sealant to keep the primary fluid from leaking there. Your manual should tell you exactly which ones. They were the ones which have the flat washer with the locking tabs to be bent against the flats of the bolt heads to hold them in place instead of using loctite there. The outer primary case bolts use loctite to hold them in place.

I had some thought before installing the primary inner cover, believing it may be difficult to install the inner primary with the new bearing already having been pressed into the primary cover, and actually made an installer to press it onto the main shaft, just as with the OEM inner bearing seal. Turned out it wasn't needed since that bearing just slid over the main shaft without resistance (press fit vs. close tolerance). Since the entire bearing is now held in place by the snap rings, I would think that the clearance for the new seal is taken care of by the narrower shielded bearing. The inner primary casing is still in it's original placement, so the seal is still in it's original placement, as far as where it rides on the main shaft.

The original inner race had to be wider to allow the seal to seat on it, so as far as the 0.100 clearance, that must be incorporated into the designed width (or lack of width in this case), of the new bearing giving clearance for the seal. I now have just over 1,000 miles on the tranny with no leakage so far. Also, be sure to lubricate the seal lips before installing the assembly.

rbabos is correct in saying the new bearing is shielded not sealed. That could allow enough fluid to pass by for lubricating the seal. I left the shields in place, since I wasn't told otherwise. Let's don't forget, I'm not a mechanical engineer, just an installer.

Those words sound a bit awkward, hope you understand what I mean.

 

You bring up a valid point on the resistance on the shaft and inner race of the bearing. Every negative aspect I though of you just mentioned in this thread. I also have my doubts as to whether this bearing is really the answer. Sure it cures the race walk but no other benifit. Lots of high hp build have no prob with the oem so it could be just the factory install with lack of cleaning prior to loctite. I'll decide once I get it apart as to which way to go.
Ron

 

Dismantling the transmission is not an option, because the mainshaft inner race that is giving you the headache must be removed before you can remove the gearset.

 

Well, faced with your situation, this is what I'd do. Machine a new heavy wall sleeve .0005-.001 loose over the race and full length of the race, and long enough past that area so that it sticks out about 1-1.5" past the end of the shaft. Weld a large nut on the end, say 3/4 fine thread. Add a disc on the end of the shaft to protect it of aluminum or bronze. This is where the 3/4 bolt, or threaded rod will push against when pulling the race.
Now you have two choices to attach the tool to the race. You can use 680 loctite and bond it or grind a pocket in the race so a set screw placed in the tool will lock into this ground out area as well as the loctite treatment. Rough up the race with sandpaper so the loctite can grab. The way it should work is you use a large wrench on the welded 3/4 nut and another on the center bolt. I hope you understand more or less the concept, and a local machine/weld shop should be able to whip it up for peanuts. If normal operation shifted the race, the original loctite bond is already broken and it shouldn't be all that hard to get off. Use 680 loctite for new race install and for best results use the cleaner too. I believe the loctite primer is not recommended for 680 but ask to be sure as it makes the bond really strong.
Two things will happen. It will come off or you will have a really long primary shaft to swear at.
Ron

 

My buddy wrenches on Harleys for friends in his garage down the street and I help him out sometimes. He is a retired machinist from Chevron and used to build choppers back in the old days, and knows his way around bikes. Two days ago we had a buddy's late model Dyna up on his lift to replace the transmission shaft bearing race under the clutch pack (was making noise - bike owner claims dealer did oil change and left his primary dry - whatever). Had the same problem as you did, in terms of the race being too close to the inner housing to get a bearing puller claw on it, so my machinist buddy just fired up his oxy-acetylene torch and carefully heated up the race right on the shaft. Slid it right off. He heated up the new race and slid it right back on. We noticed that due to the length of the race it made sense that it was so close to the inner housing, and so the new one went on the same way - too deep to get a puller claw over. Not a common repair, so probably won't have to deal with it again.

We did this without ruining the shaft seal, which is what you would naturally worry about when you do this job. Be quick with the torch, keep it moving around the bearing, and angle the flame away from the seal and you'll be fine. Also, don't heat the race up until it glows - try pulling it off with a pliers periodically during the heating process - it will slip right off when it's ready.

 

I would use the torch myself, but got years of practice with these kind of things. Problem is for first timer if you heat it to the point it glows and it don't come off, you are seriously screwed now. It will shink so tight grinding is the only option now. If somebody has the skills , then yes it will come off real easy and not hurt anything in the process.
Ron