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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 02:52 AM
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I am new around here so this may not even make it but I have a real problem that some sage help would be greatly appreciated in diagnosing.

The basics: 2009 FLSTC theft recovery, 35,000+mls looks to be a well maintained peace.

When cold the bike starts perfect. After about 4 miles shut down restart, the bike will spin up then acts like it quits and makes an unpleasantness almost like a seezing sound then starts. This only happened once. When it did I drove it home and noticed the exhaust pipes were blue for the last 3-4 inches of the non baffled exhaust on it

Correction the blueing was on the first three inches of the non baffled exhaust.
 

Last edited by TS Tinker; Jan 3, 2015 at 02:56 AM.
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 09:13 AM
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The bluing on your pipes is normal. I don't know about your hard hot restart. Should start easier than when cold.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 11:51 AM
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If it only happened once I wouldn't worry about it unless it keeps doing it. You might want to check if the bike threw any codes.
Since you don't really know how the bike has been serviced, go over the simple stuff first. Check battery cables and grounds for clean and tight connections, fuses and relays for the same things. Fuel and air filters also.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 02:50 PM
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my street glide started doing that when the battery started going out. Seems to be magnified when the engine is hot. like said above. check cables and the basic stuff.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2015 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kylebryan
my street glide started doing that when the battery started going out. Seems to be magnified when the engine is hot. like said above. check cables and the basic stuff.
One of the few things I do know about the bike is it has a new battery.

The service manual for it came in this week and I have a pile of parts including a rear tire and new V&H slip on pipes to throw at it. I will load test the battery and charging system while I'm at it.

Is it normal for the rear fender to be almost an inch farther from the side wall of the tire on the left side? I'm thinking someone swapped the spacers on the last change.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by TS Tinker
One of the few things I do know about the bike is it has a new battery.

The service manual for it came in this week and I have a pile of parts including a rear tire and new V&H slip on pipes to throw at it. I will load test the battery and charging system while I'm at it.

Is it normal for the rear fender to be almost an inch farther from the side wall of the tire on the left side? I'm thinking someone swapped the spacers on the last change.


The tire does not sit in the center of the fender. The main thing is that the belt is in proper alignment. If you try to center the tire in the fender, you will most likely throw off the belt alignment.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2015 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by flhchaz
The tire does not sit in the center of the fender. The main thing is that the belt is in proper alignment. If you try to center the tire in the fender, you will most likely throw off the belt alignment.
Thanks, I should be putting it back on tonight
 
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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 11:57 PM
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The nasty noise has been diagnosed as the compensator.

I have watched several videos on the replacement and I have the skills and tools except the 70 torques for the job. Is there an alternative parts supply? While I'm in there the stator(which is seeping a little around the grommet) should probably be replaced. From the dealer the parts and gaskets for the cases are close to $700.

Should I just buy the extended warranty, drive it enough for the warranty to take effect or fix it myself?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TS Tinker
The nasty noise has been diagnosed as the compensator.

I have watched several videos on the replacement and I have the skills and tools except the 70 torques for the job. Is there an alternative parts supply? While I'm in there the stator(which is seeping a little around the grommet) should probably be replaced. From the dealer the parts and gaskets for the cases are close to $700.

Should I just buy the extended warranty, drive it enough for the warranty to take effect or fix it myself?
If the stator is putting out no need to replace it. Put a little silicone around the grommet and put it back in. If you do decide to replace it look at Cycles Electric stators, a fraction of the cost of the HD ones and every bit as good.
 
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