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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Greetings everyone, I am new to this Forum. A little about me, I have been riding since 1991 when I was in the Navy. I rode two wheels for a long time, but the Mrs finally got tired of it, and wanted something more stable, so we got a trike in spring of 2016. I was hesitant at first, but it is growing on me. It is by far the coolest vehicle I have ever gone grocery shopping with.
I was riding yesterday and engine was running strong, while accelerating I shifted between 3rd and 4th gear. It felt like the trans didn't catch the gear so I gave it another bump to ensure that it was in gear. Still slowing down, and realized the engine had died. So pulled to the side of the road. Hasn't started since. I have a 2012 Tri Glide. No mods or upgrades, just stock.
Here is what I have tried so far: not throwing any codes, spark test on both cylinders shows good even spark, all fuses are good with no corrosion, checked voltage in key fob battery (2.9V), with the spark plugs removed I get about 300 rpm on tach while turning over engine (leads me to believe the crank position sensor is working), I do get the fuel pump prime whine when I take the OFF/RUN switch to run. Next things that I am going to try are clean throttle body sensor, and spray some gas into intake to see if it fires. Anyone have any other suggestions?
Thanks mmesa, I will try disconnecting the quick disconnect and reconnect. That seems to have fixed a lot of peoples problems. If that works, I will probably replace quick disconnect, fuel filter and pressure regulator housing. Seems like a straight forward job.
If you are not getting the timed 2 second prime, leave all else alone and fix that .
First, the fuel pump fuse. Then relay. There is a timer in it but of course, the relay must work. Older bikes had two same part relays. Only one used timer. Switch is fast check.
The alarm/signal light controller also must be ok for fuel pump to work. Bank angle switch also kills pump
Fuel pump runs all the time when motor is running. Only after CPS gives enough signals. The two second prime is a timer most to show working system. Toyota does not even use it on some motors. They do require two relays system for safety
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 13, 2018 at 12:24 PM.
I did fix it this morning. I took the quick disconnect apart at the tank. Used a small screwdriver to move the parts in the check valve, cleaned it all up, and put it back together. Fired right up. So I guess a rebuild kit is in my near future.
I did fix it this morning. I took the quick disconnect apart at the tank. Used a small screwdriver to move the parts in the check valve, cleaned it all up, and put it back together. Fired right up. So I guess a rebuild kit is in my near future.
Thanks everyone for the help.
There are two o-rings up in there. Popping quick release without letting bike set overnight or removing fuel pump fuse and letting it run to relieve pressure pops them out of place. If it's not leaking, you are probably fine. If not a little careful probing with a bent but not sharp probe can pull them out. Do not scratch surfaces up in there. This should not have affected the 2-second prime you said was not happing.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 13, 2018 at 04:10 PM.
Ripsaw, I did let bike sit overnight. I have been getting the 2 second priming sound. So I wasn't worried that was the problem. Just put about 40 miles on it and no issues, no leakage at the quick disconnect either. I was looking at the fueltool.com kit to replace the orings, spring and valve. Thanks for all your suggestions.
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