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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
I just reset the cold idle last week using the methods described in the tech section. All was fine for almost a week, then it loses the setting and won't idle up on start when cold. This is the third time this has happened. The dyno operator set it the last time and it lost the setting after a week or so. This is driving me crazy trying to figure out what's happening. Could I have a bad temp sensor or TPS that's causing this to happen?
My hot idle stays OK when it warms up, but when the engine is cold the engine almost dies for a few seconds then creeps up to almost the warm idle.
Also, I have the PCIIIr on the bike and wonder if it could be causing this problem?
I don't use a PCIII but would suggest you unplug the pcIII, then check your cold idle issue without it. If your cold idle goes normal then you know the PCIII is doing something to it. It could be a heat sensor on the bike also.
Your throttle body may need cleaning. Use a spray cleaner ( I use Pyrol Brake Cleaner) and clean the throttle plate and body bores. Clean the two air bleed holes at the top of each bore. They control the idle. I have a 2000 RK with the older PCII. Some times the two screws will back out. Rotate the throttle to see the cold idle screw. Form a cold start it should rev to around 1400 rpm. If it doesn't turn the cold idle screw in untill it does and soon after drops to 1200 and when fully warm should be around 1000 rpm. Dont't let the bike get too warm, work fast. Warm the bike fully and adjust the hot idle.
Pull the 5 amp and 15 amp fuse under the rightside cover for at least 15 min. Replace fuses and turn ignition on until the stepper motor stops then turn the ignition off until you hear the circuit breaker reset.
Additional small adjustment may be needed to get the idle you want.
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