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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Hey all, Id like to hear some opinions on whats going on with my bike. 99 Electra Glide, carbureted. Riding down the highway and my engine suddenly dies and Im coasting to the shoulder. There wasnt any engine shutter, backfires, or coughing. The starter was strong and turned it over, but it would not start. When I got it pulled over and was planning to call a tow until a coworker pulled over to check on me. About 10 minutes later I decided to try again, and it fired up. Started down the road and about a mile it quit again, and same thing could not get it started until about 5 minutes later. This happened 2 more times before I was able to get it home.
My thoughts went straight to either ignition system or fuel system. I convinced myself it was unlikely fuel as I didnt experience the symptoms of fuel loss. To me it seems a component is getting hot and needs to cool down before working again. So maybe its the coil? I also replaced the ignition switch over the winter because it snapped off during maintenance, but Im not sure if a faulty switch would act like this.
In the last few years related parts that have been replaced/upgraded Twintec ignition module, stator, SE phat wires, SE plugs.
Any open discussion on what direction I should go is welcome. Thanks!
Hey all, I’d like to hear some opinions on what’s going on with my bike. ’99 Electra Glide, carbureted. Riding down the highway and my engine suddenly dies and I’m coasting to the shoulder. There wasn’t any engine shutter, backfires, or coughing. The starter was strong and turned it over, but it would not start. When I got it pulled over and was planning to call a tow until a coworker pulled over to check on me. About 10 minutes later I decided to try again, and it fired up. Started down the road and about a mile it quit again, and same thing could not get it started until about 5 minutes later. This happened 2 more times before I was able to get it home.
My thoughts went straight to either ignition system or fuel system. I convinced myself it was unlikely fuel as I didn’t experience the symptoms of fuel loss. To me it seems a component is getting hot and needs to cool down before working again. So maybe it’s the coil? I also replaced the ignition switch over the winter because it snapped off during maintenance, but I’m not sure if a faulty switch would act like this.
In the last few years related parts that have been replaced/upgraded… Twintec ignition module, stator, SE phat wires, SE plugs.
Any open discussion on what direction I should go is welcome. Thanks!
I had this problem with a jap bike back in the day, it was the ignition coil. Also check the fuel flow from the tank petcock, next time it happens, check for spark, that way you can know if it spark or fuel.
Check the crank position sensor for crud but the main circuit breaker on older higher mileage bikes get weak over time and heat will cause a shut down; cool off and back on the road. IIRC, the MoCo upgraded the MCB from 40A to 50A in 2004 but not sure.
Check the crank position sensor for crud but the main circuit breaker on older higher mileage bikes get weak over time and heat will cause a shut down; cool off and back on the road. IIRC, the MoCo upgraded the MCB from 40A to 50A in 2004 but not sure.
I had this problem with a jap bike back in the day, it was the ignition coil. Also check the fuel flow from the tank petcock, next time it happens, check for spark, that way you can know if it spark or fuel.
My first thought was the coil so I ordered one since it had a longer delivery time. Ill for sure check the fuel flow.
Check the crank position sensor for crud but the main circuit breaker on older higher mileage bikes get weak over time and heat will cause a shut down; cool off and back on the road. IIRC, the MoCo upgraded the MCB from 40A to 50A in 2004 but not sure.
CPS would be an easy one to do. I didn't think of the MCB, but would it still crank if it was the issue? Also, if it came to replacing it, is it ok to switch to a 50A if it's more readily available?
I appreciate the replies so far. I'm currently looking through the service manual and I'm going to attempt to pull a code with the check engine light to see if I can pin point an issue. Can't believe how much those Scanalyzers cost.
Last edited by SconnieRider; Apr 30, 2024 at 09:31 AM.
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