ECM replacement problem
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 1,128
From:
So to confirm..
Only you personally have worked on the bike since the incident.
The bike worked fine before the incident.
Presently:
Everything appears to work.
Idle is clean and responds to throttle.
I will guess that charging system has been checked for voltage via battery posts at rest, during cranking and high idle.
During a ride of unknown inclination and unknown fuel in fuel tank it experienced a little hesitation but you downshifted and turn onto a parallel street and headed back home.
Then it hesitated and surged and got some pops out of the induction unit at the air cleaner.
Kinda /sorta like the symptoms from a bad engine head temperature sensor (flip/flop) from hot to cold
or
A diminished fuel issue from a blocked fuel inlet filter after a piece of tank liner floats towards filter sock and blocks fuel but then later floats off and repeats.
Only you personally have worked on the bike since the incident.
The bike worked fine before the incident.
Presently:
Everything appears to work.
Idle is clean and responds to throttle.
I will guess that charging system has been checked for voltage via battery posts at rest, during cranking and high idle.
During a ride of unknown inclination and unknown fuel in fuel tank it experienced a little hesitation but you downshifted and turn onto a parallel street and headed back home.
Then it hesitated and surged and got some pops out of the induction unit at the air cleaner.
Kinda /sorta like the symptoms from a bad engine head temperature sensor (flip/flop) from hot to cold
or
A diminished fuel issue from a blocked fuel inlet filter after a piece of tank liner floats towards filter sock and blocks fuel but then later floats off and repeats.
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 34
Likes: 1
From: Boston
So to confirm..
Only you personally have worked on the bike since the incident.
The bike worked fine before the incident.
Presently:
Everything appears to work.
Idle is clean and responds to throttle.
I will guess that charging system has been checked for voltage via battery posts at rest, during cranking and high idle.
During a ride of unknown inclination and unknown fuel in fuel tank it experienced a little hesitation but you downshifted and turn onto a parallel street and headed back home.
Then it hesitated and surged and got some pops out of the induction unit at the air cleaner.
Kinda /sorta like the symptoms from a bad engine head temperature sensor (flip/flop) from hot to cold
or
A diminished fuel issue from a blocked fuel inlet filter after a piece of tank liner floats towards filter sock and blocks fuel but then later floats off and repeats.
Only you personally have worked on the bike since the incident.
The bike worked fine before the incident.
Presently:
Everything appears to work.
Idle is clean and responds to throttle.
I will guess that charging system has been checked for voltage via battery posts at rest, during cranking and high idle.
During a ride of unknown inclination and unknown fuel in fuel tank it experienced a little hesitation but you downshifted and turn onto a parallel street and headed back home.
Then it hesitated and surged and got some pops out of the induction unit at the air cleaner.
Kinda /sorta like the symptoms from a bad engine head temperature sensor (flip/flop) from hot to cold
or
A diminished fuel issue from a blocked fuel inlet filter after a piece of tank liner floats towards filter sock and blocks fuel but then later floats off and repeats.
Stage I
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: MO
I have read your posts in other threads. I am looking for an ecm for my 99 flhtci. P/N 32423-99 do you happen to have one? And possibly the rain boot for it? I tried to pm you but it wouldn't let me.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 1,128
From:
The engine head temp sensor changes resistance depending on temperature.
The symptoms you describe seem related to temp sensor gone bad.
Perhaps another forum member will report or you can search threads.
Most report a wild flip/flop of throttle.. A huge uncontrolled swing from high to low.
Replacements of parts should not be made without testing a part.
Keep in mind that even new parts can be defective and should be tested especially if they are in a difficult to install location..
Your temp sensor can be tested with a digital voltage meter...some ice and some hot water against chart in service book.
It will require removal of sensor to test.
Sensor will not always throw a code. Especially if there is no break of wire and no total of of resistance(open circuit).
There are a few posts of substituting the newer shorter (1999) sensor with a 2 inch extender on threaded end.
I have not installed a shorter sensor ( believe it is part 32446-99) but have confirmed that resistance matches on both (compared shorter sensor to manual), thread and pitch on both are reported as 12Mx1.25 and it looks like electrical connection is the same based on online wiring review.
If needed the newer shorter sensor can be purchased online for under $20 US dollars but you still need to make or acquire an extender of about 2 inches long...... 12Mx1.25 and about 2 inches long for spacer part.
Perhaps a vehicle stick shifter extender or even a 12M x1.25 2.5 inch long bolt (You lose about 0.5 inches when threaded to head).
That would leave about 2 inches of thread exposed and then weld a 12Mx1.25 nut to head of bolt.
Thread sensor to created extender on bench and install.
Later in the future upon removal it will probably come out in two parts when unthreaded from motorcycle...sensor first and then extender.
You would be the perfect tester if you are going to remove it anyways.
The symptoms you describe seem related to temp sensor gone bad.
Perhaps another forum member will report or you can search threads.
Most report a wild flip/flop of throttle.. A huge uncontrolled swing from high to low.
Replacements of parts should not be made without testing a part.
Keep in mind that even new parts can be defective and should be tested especially if they are in a difficult to install location..
Your temp sensor can be tested with a digital voltage meter...some ice and some hot water against chart in service book.
It will require removal of sensor to test.
Sensor will not always throw a code. Especially if there is no break of wire and no total of of resistance(open circuit).
There are a few posts of substituting the newer shorter (1999) sensor with a 2 inch extender on threaded end.
I have not installed a shorter sensor ( believe it is part 32446-99) but have confirmed that resistance matches on both (compared shorter sensor to manual), thread and pitch on both are reported as 12Mx1.25 and it looks like electrical connection is the same based on online wiring review.
If needed the newer shorter sensor can be purchased online for under $20 US dollars but you still need to make or acquire an extender of about 2 inches long...... 12Mx1.25 and about 2 inches long for spacer part.
Perhaps a vehicle stick shifter extender or even a 12M x1.25 2.5 inch long bolt (You lose about 0.5 inches when threaded to head).
That would leave about 2 inches of thread exposed and then weld a 12Mx1.25 nut to head of bolt.
Thread sensor to created extender on bench and install.
Later in the future upon removal it will probably come out in two parts when unthreaded from motorcycle...sensor first and then extender.
You would be the perfect tester if you are going to remove it anyways.
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 34
Likes: 1
From: Boston
UPDATE: ok saw some advice about the twist lock on the CKP so I disconnected the twist lock and then put it back together and made sure it was aligned correctly and well connected - rode around the block and all appeared functional. brought it back to the house put the side cover and left bag back on and was setting out for a longer test ride and the condition resurfaced - hesitation, misfire, surging etc... so I limped it back home and said to myself "run a diag again" - so I put it in diag mode and low and behold I pulled a code - I got slow flashes!!!! I got 5 and then 6 - so looked up in the table 56 = crank, cam position sensor - now to troubleshoot - can't do any of the breakout box tests so I assume it's swapping out the sensors . Never touched the cam position sensor so I might drill the rivets and look there first...
Last edited by Rasolama; Aug 1, 2024 at 03:33 PM. Reason: spelling
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,086
Likes: 1,128
From:
Please go back and reread all posts.
Perhaps you are using a phone instead of a real computer.
A real computer might let you see things more clearly.
Review responses in detail.
Code #56 was mentioned is second response.
Any bad start will give a code #56.
It does not mean that sensor is bad and it does not mean that something else in wrong.
Again, code #56 is ANY bad start.
You have plenty of information to review, test, isolate problem and to resolve.
Perhaps you are using a phone instead of a real computer.
A real computer might let you see things more clearly.
Review responses in detail.
Code #56 was mentioned is second response.
Any bad start will give a code #56.
It does not mean that sensor is bad and it does not mean that something else in wrong.
Again, code #56 is ANY bad start.
You have plenty of information to review, test, isolate problem and to resolve.
Thread Starter
|
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 34
Likes: 1
From: Boston
Please go back and reread all posts.
Perhaps you are using a phone instead of a real computer.
A real computer might let you see things more clearly.
Review responses in detail.
Code #56 was mentioned is second response.
Any bad start will give a code #56.
It does not mean that sensor is bad and it does not mean that something else in wrong.
Again, code #56 is ANY bad start.
You have plenty of information to review, test, isolate problem and to resolve.
Perhaps you are using a phone instead of a real computer.
A real computer might let you see things more clearly.
Review responses in detail.
Code #56 was mentioned is second response.
Any bad start will give a code #56.
It does not mean that sensor is bad and it does not mean that something else in wrong.
Again, code #56 is ANY bad start.
You have plenty of information to review, test, isolate problem and to resolve.
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Aug 1, 2024 at 09:43 PM.
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UPDATE: ok saw some advice about the twist lock on the CKP so I disconnected the twist lock and then put it back together and made sure it was aligned correctly and well connected - rode around the block and all appeared functional. brought it back to the house put the side cover and left bag back on and was setting out for a longer test ride and the condition resurfaced - hesitation, misfire, surging etc... so I limped it back home and said to myself "run a diag again" - so I put it in diag mode and low and behold I pulled a code - I got slow flashes!!!! I got 5 and then 6 - so looked up in the table 56 = crank, cam position sensor - now to troubleshoot - can't do any of the breakout box tests so I assume it's swapping out the sensors . Never touched the cam position sensor so I might drill the rivets and look there first...
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Aug 1, 2024 at 09:36 PM.
so aside from finding a scannalyzer and buying it... my stealership doesnt work on anything this old and my local indy whom I think the world of would rather do carb conversions on MM's since he doesn't think working on them is worth his shop time (probablly right) so he doesn't have one either... anyone want to rent or loan me one?!?!?
Last edited by Ed Ramberger; Aug 1, 2024 at 09:34 PM.