Ideally you should describe what "it" is to refresh memory.
If it is a flip flop from high to low idle then you can remove and test the head temperature sensor located on front head.

 

Then CAM sensor can be shade tree tested with a hair dryer on hot if you think it has issues when hot.

 

ok… bike died from being left on and drained the battery. Before that it was running near perfectly. I jumped it with a lithium pack connected directly to the battery via a hard wired IC5 connector. Bike started right up and I took it for a ride to try and charge it with the charging system. Within 1/2 mile from house it cut out and a coasted to a parking lot and tried to start it a half dozen more times -
draining two lithium packs and then I tried jumping from a running car. I realized at that point that the fuel pump wasn’t pressurizing the line so I towed it home and started troubleshooting. I’ll assume this short/surge happened from the first jump off the lithium pack and the bike cut out because the pressure that was leftover in the fuel system before I stopped and drained the battery was finally depleted and the pump didn’t kick on when it was jumped.

Had a few blown fuses (one was ecm) and had to run down a couple of shorts. Bridged both the fuel pump and ECM relays (one at a time) and was able to get the fuel pump to kick with both attempts. Deduced the ECM, flasher cancelling mod, cornering/passing lamps, aftermarket flashing brake mod, and tail light were all toast so I replaced them all.

Bike now starts and runs but after about 3 mins or so of operation it surges, bogs/hesitates/misfires and pops out of intake. Looks like timing is advancing or it’s leaning cuz it’s also throwing some heat.

I wasn’t initially able to get a code from the onboard diag feature until yesterday when I disconnected and firmly reconnected the crank sensor taut barrel plug now I’m consistently getting “56” after clears and multiple test rides. I adjusted the cam position center onto the static holes since its EFI and it was identified as being incorrectly on the adjustable slots.

So now I’m trying to get a plan of attack on this for the next three sensors I want to check/test/replace - crank, cam, temp and looking for advice on which would be the most suspect to start first. My gut is crank since I didn’t start getting a code until I disconnected and reconnected its tail more securely.

 

you into to rc? helis?.....the lithium was a 3s Lipo?

 

nah my kid builds drones for a living but this is just a dbpower jump pack starting current 1000A and peak 2000A

 

Getting a little lost on this issue that you have and trying to figure out why you would do the same thing you did before to jumpstart the bike believing that that's what caused your problem initially.. makes no sense to me...

 

That was all the same event - I didn’t realize what was going on - it was hot and I was frustrated - after I towed it to the house I trickled the battery and it took a charge - I didn’t noticed the fuel pump wasn’t pressurizing the sustem when I was in the parking lot - I wasn’t thinking it through - when I got it home I stopped had a cigar and charged the battery. The next morning I went through it methodically and realized I had no spark and the fuel pump wasn’t pressurizing the system.

It was suggested that I recap the problem from the start so I did…

 

That was all the same event - I didn’t realize what was going on - it was hot and I was frustrated - after I towed it to the house I trickled the battery and it took a charge - I didn’t noticed the fuel pump wasn’t pressurizing the sustem when I was in the parking lot - I wasn’t thinking it through - when I got it home I stopped had a cigar and charged the battery. The next morning I went through it methodically and realized I had no spark and the fuel pump wasn’t pressurizing the system.

It was suggested that I recap the problem from the start so I did…

 

Ok,,,,take a hairdryer and heat up the cam sensor BEFORE you test ride it. Get it up to the engine temp before you go out and see if rubs bad much earlier. That will tell you. I'M gonna look up that thing about that sensor being in the fixed holes. Never heard of that, but confirmation from the FSM will be cool.
m

 

I understand that diagnostics are time consuming.
But without the rule out of line items it is rather difficult to succeed.

You continue to report... "surges, bogs/hesitates/misfires".
It seems like it is happening once bike gets hot.

That is one of the symptoms when a temp sensor goes bad.
That sensor can be bench tested.
You could even let the bike get hot in the driveway.
Then wearing gloves, turn bike OFF and quickly pop the wire connector at temp sensor.
With bike OFF put probes on sensor when bike is hot and take a resistance reading over a few minutes of that sensor.
It should slowly change resistance as it cools.

**back in at about post #21 i mentioned...
I will guess that charging system has been checked for voltage via battery posts at rest, during cranking and high idle.
I will guess that was done.
Voltage spikes and drop off could cause weird stuff to happen too.