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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
I have a 1990 sporty and the damn thing just quits on me, like i shut it off not die out but just cuts off. Any idea what my problem could be I thought maybe the ignition module but I tried a known good one and it still does it.
Try running a wire from the + battery post to the white wire on the coil terminal....if this fixes the problem I would replace the on/off switch on the handle bar.
On my 1994 XL1200 I had that problem, I found that the ignition switch was very sensitive. If I had anything hanging off the key ring that would get caught in the wind it would bump it back a little and would cut out. I just used the key by itself on a ring and it quit. You might just jiggle the switch while it is running and see if that is the problem.
I havn't received it yet. I checked the voltage into the switch and out of the switch and I get bat voltage so I guess I'll have to chase the wire into the head light and out to see if there isa break somewhere.
When you wire the coil direct you only eliminate two switches....one it the on/off switch and the other is the ignition switch. If your ignition switch feels sponge as you turn the key or you don't feel a positive indent at the on position then chances are it's going bad. The on/off switch is deciving....even though it shows current one second it can open at any vibration level killing the juice to the ignition coil.
Some one suggested a bad ground wire off the battery....this was an issue with the older sporty's for a while, the cable breaks under the shrink tubing at the starter. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery and give it a good jerk up....if it is bad it will pull right out of the shrink tubing.
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