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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
Can anyone convince me why I shouldn't (or should) dump my TMAX and switch to TTS or a PC? As I've sunk a few bucks into this motor I want to wring every last bit of power out of it and it doesn't seem to me I'm getting it especially after looking at some of the 95"-98" dyno charts. The bike runs well enough but I expected more as compared to my previous build (98"/37g/street port heads/9.7 comp).
None of the maps available seem to be real close to what I have built. How do I know how close the timing is without a dyno or what AFR's to even shoot for?
The closest map as recommended by Zippers is a 95" with a 50mm Zippers throttle body and a Red Shift 577 cam and Thunderheader 2-1 where mine is a 98" with a 48mm HPI. and a WT 26 cam and a Fatcat. Is that close enough? How am I supposed to know? At this point it feels like throwing darts blindfolded.
If I have to dyno this to get it right what's the advantage to the TMAX? Am I missing something or is this better suited for someone not trying to get every last bit out of their build? It seems I might be better off with a TTS and a dyno tune. Any comments will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Rick
05 Eglide
98" stock cylinders bored by Hyperformance
CP 6cc domed pistons machined from 10cc by Hyperformance
Kury WT26g cams
10.5 static comp/9.17 corrected
84 cc heads fully ported by an individual experienced with these cams (1.90I/1.62E)
.030 HG
HPI 48mm throttle body
Doherty Powerpac intake
D&D Fatcat
TMAT (map 475)
Do you have the T-Max w/Auto Tune? If so, you shouldn't need a dyno, because the T-Max most effectively tunes itself to your riding style and engine build. You start with the closest map and the Auto Tune feature does the rest. How long have you had the T-Max on your bike? You should really give it several months before making the decision to dump it.
You really want some power? Spend a few hundred more and get the NADS dry nitrous assist system from Zippers, which piggybacks directly onto your T-Max. It'll knock your socks (er...boots) off!
Last edited by HoggyMtnBreakdown; Jun 1, 2009 at 10:25 PM.
the autotune will tune the afr, but not the timing. Thats the reason for the dyno tune. You'll just have to lock the autotune down once you have the bike tuned.
the autotune will tune the afr, but not the timing. Thats the reason for the dyno tune. You'll just have to lock the autotune down wants you have the bike tuned.
Great, now all I have to do is find someone within a days ride that can tune it, not much luck there so far.
Do you have the T-Max w/Auto Tune? If so, you shouldn't need a dyno, because the T-Max most effectively tunes itself to your riding style and engine build. You start with the closest map and the Auto Tune feature does the rest. How long have you had the T-Max on your bike? You should really give it several months before making the decision to dump it.
I'm running the map recommended by Zippers (475) which doesn't look all that close to my eyes. I'm not new to the TMAX. This is the second build I've used it on. I have over 1500 miles on it with this motor.
I was under the impression it could be used on the 05's without the o2 sensors in open loop mode.
Rick
Its possible I may not have understood some of the previous posts I read, it may be regarding the SERT upgrade path. Mine is an '08 so I don't really read those ones to indepth.
MasterTune-HD is a Windows-based ECM reprogramming tool specifically for use with 2001 and later Delphi-equipped Harley-DavidsonŽ motorcycles that utilize the diagnostic interface. MasterTune-HD also supports 2005-2009 Retrofit ECM Service Modules when installed on earlier vehicles.
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