OK you wire wizards! I've had this intermittent starting problem for awhile now and its gotten worse. With the green start circuit wire attached to my '96 EVO and it doesn't start - I read 7.8 volts at the back of the wire connector. If I take the wire off, hit the start button, I get a reading of a minimum of 11.8 volts. How is that possible? I tried to move the wire to see if there is a short in the wire and the voltage doesn't drop. I can jump the start circuit by going directly from the hot side of the starter to the male spade where the green wire would normally attach and the starter works.

Any suggestions????

 

I'm not familiar with that bike specifically, but is there a starter relay you can check?

I haven't done any in-depth exploration of HD's wiring harness yet, but I've wired a couple of custom builds and I've always used a starter relay so the power from the battery goes direct to the starter instead of running all the way through the starter button in the handlebars. Pressing the starter button flips a switch in the relay to close the circuit from the battery to the starter.

I'm thinking if your relay is bad, or maybe the ground wire going to the relay is bad, it might not be functioning properly.

I hope that helps...

 

Saweet96, shouldn't be to much wrong, require a little more info.
The 11.8 volts at a guess would be battery voltage you are reading. If I have the correct drawings here the green comes from the starter starter relay. With the green wire removed from the starter motor and start initiated you should get the 11.8 volts or battery voltage. If it drops dramaticaly you may have a starter relay problem, (hot joint in the relay or relay contacts)
If I have the right drawing the wire to the starter button is a grey (comes from the ignition fuse (15Amp). You may even have bad contacts at the start switch hence the voltage drop. Under a no load situation all will look good, the drop in voltage will not be greatly evident untill load is applied (current) in this case load from the starter motor.
Just out of interest are your wire colours at the start relay,,,,Red / Black
Tan / Green
Black / Red
Green
Hope this has helped without confusion
Interested to hear the results

Cheers

 

Thanks for the reply.

I have replaced the relay with a brand new one and a used one with the same results. So I don't believe its the relay.

Still lookin for help!

 

Let me make sure I understand what you are saying.

Even though I get a reading of 11.8 or battery voltage with the green "start" wire off, once I applied load (starter) the drop could be due to a bad relay or starter switch (located on the handle bar)?

The starter relay, new starter and battery, new ground cable, all with the same results.

I presummed if I had true battery voltage with the wire off, not under any load; I could eliminate the relay or switch.

As far as wiring colors, I'll have to go and remove the fairing to see.

Thanks for the help though.

 

Might be getting some where now..Hard to know what parts you had changed in your first post. (new relay and start switch).
There a a few checks to be done and sounds like you are getting through them. To explain a little on the voltage drop..this would happen with lets say bad contacts on a switch or relay, as your load (current ) increases the voltage will drop, the same would apply with a ground fault untill the fuse blows. Again, not being there and reading between the lines (trying to help of course) it is now probable that the start solenoid is at fault. When you start the bike at the starter motor (jumping the wires) you are bypassing the start solenoid, hence when all is connected you loose voltage due to a failing solenoid. Could be a mechanical fault or electrical fault with the solenoid.
Solenoid plunger could be tight / siezed, (pinion shaft and gear) or the soleoid contacts may be worn.
A quick check is to take the main feed cable to the starter motor off and then press the start, should hear the solenoid engage then dis-engage when start button is released. All this check will do is test ths solenoid without engaging the starter motor.
Sorry for the ramble, see how you go if this has not been proved.
Cheers

 

Thanks again for your replies.

As I stated before the starter is brand new and still gives me the same problem as the old one did.

I also replaced the primary cover bearing while I had it off.

The only thing I haven't researched is the jack shaft. It is still original but I don't know what to look for.

One last thing, for awhile when it didn't start, if I placed the trans in first and tried to rock the bike, it would sometimes start. That doesn't seem to work anymore. That's why I starting to believe it has something to do with the jack shaft not working properly.

Could the jackshaft be failing, causing a higher demand of current to operate?

Again, thanks for the help.

 

If you can apply a good clean 12V to the starter solenoid tab and the bike starts, there is nothing wrong mechanically.

If you still read 7 volts at the same tab with the starter wire (green) hooked up, there is a problem in the starter circuit.

Have read that you changed many of the parts and the problem persists, I would start looking at connection. I would start at the starter relay socket. Make sure all the terminals are clean and not corroded. By plugging in the relay and unplugging it you can make sure they are connecting by looking for scrape marks on the terminals of the relay. Doing that a few times often ensures a good connection.

Next I would trace all the wires that are related to the starter circuit and clean every connection. This includes frame grounds, power at the circuit breaker (fuse depending on year). I would also remove and clean the engine to frame ground strap.

If the relay is clicking when you push the starter button, it is not likely going to be in the handle bar circuit. Essentially the button on the handle bars just supplies power to trigger the starter relay. Once the starter relay trips, it then applies 12V to the starter solenoid causing the engine to turn over. By the sounds of your previous testing, I believe the 12V power to the relay has a bad connection OR the relay itself has a bad connection. As someone else stated, when you have a load applied to the green wire it doesn't get 12V and this is 99% caused due to bad connection or bad relay.

Good Luck