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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
I'm banging my head in frustration as I'm getting nowhere with the local dealership who says' there's no problem with my bike. Problem started after the dealership put in a new radio and speakers on my 02 RoadGlide. When I hit around 3000 rpms (after the bike has been ridden for a while) my volt meter will drop and the headlights dim. It does it for about 2 seconds and then comes back up to full power. Dealership replaced the volt meter and said problem was solved. Next day same thing. Returned the bike and after a week again was told nothing is wrong. Just came back from a 1800 mile trip and bike did it the whole time. During daylight it's un-noticable unless you're really looking at the volt meter gage. At night it drives you crazy. I've also replaced the battery. I'm thinking it might've been when they did the radio but they're sticking to the story of the bike being fine.
Anyone have any ideas what it coule be? Appreciate it.
The same thing happened to me, after riding awhile volts would drop and return. Mine got worse after a few weeks and it turned out to be ther voltage regulator breaking down.
Take a peek at the voltage regulator harness where it leaves the regulator and goes under the frame. See if it is chafed bare on the wire where it goes under the bracket. You may find your problem there. You can park the bike in the garage if it is unlighted and watch for the sparks as you move the harness.
I had the same problem returning from a trip out West. \\; Every 15 seconds or so the volt meter would swing down to about 11V and then swing back up to 14. \\; As it would swing the head lamp would dim. \\; Stopped at a HD dealer just outside of Kansas. \\; They said it was the regulator and replaced it. \\; 2 hours later getting back on the expressway it did the same thing. \\; I went back and they refunded my money and told me they did not know how to fix it. \\; Continued riding and stopped at the next dealer. \\; They thought it was the stator and told me they couldn't get the bike in for a weel. \\; I pulled all of the unessential fuses and decided to ride straight home to Michigan. \\; After getting home I started checking everthing and discovered that my neg wire on the battery was loose. \\; I tightened it up and 8K miles later have not had a problem. \\; \\; \\; SInce you already replaced the battery I would suggest that you check all ground cables to make sure they are not loose.
What sucks, I have had 3 of the four problems described above. I think the circuit breaker was the result of the regulator failing for a long time. It would over charge and trip the breaker and reset usually. Replaced breaker and things were good for a season until I melted the terminal off the battery. Replaced regulator and the \\;stuck closed \\;breaker. About 10 k later I was not happy when battery started to intermittently charge and discharge. Since I thought I was drilled about this problem I was getting ready to do another regulator. For a change the battery wasn't charging when I first fired it up. Checked voltage at battery, no charge. Checked voltage at stator, nothing. Shut it down and switch from AC to ohm, wide open. Pulled stator, Cooked. most of it looked good but 3 coils were black and had that electrical burnt oder. 20k later and no problems yet. Keep in mind, my bike has 95k on it and other than the wheel bearings, I think every thing else has been changed!
I have noticed.....
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Most riders like to keep the idle way too low...the exhust note may sound good, but you're probably not charging and you're not doing the engine any good. If your idle is below 1,000 RPM....you are too low.
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Do not REPLACE any part until it is properly troubleshooted. It would be a shame and really expensive to replace the stator/rotor and regulator only to find out that the problem was a loose battery connection.
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Do not totally rely on the volt guage on the bike. These things are not fully accurate and they do not give you an exact reading. Besides, a guage can always fail and might be the problem. Always use a multimeter to get readings.
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My advice, is to follow the shop manual pertaining to your bike only. Avoid the guessing game, just follow the book.
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Guessing can be time consuming and be expensive.
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