Hate to ask bit does anyone have a good map for me to start with for my power vision.

I have a 06 FLSTI no o2 sensors
Stock opened breather (no back to air cleaner)
Vanes and Hines big radius 2into 2

You can email me at greenhead17@gmail.com

I'd appreciated a lot. I've never messed with this stuff before and I'm new.

 

I'm trying to understand what difference there is in optimal timing between different stage-1 hardware.

If you have stage-1 hardware only on a 103" and have had the timing tuned by a reputable tuner, can you send me (or post) a copy of your timing tables, together with your year and bike model, AC and pipes setup?

Many thanks in advance!

 

Lurked on this thread for a long time....going to jump in to get some help at this point.

I've had the PV for about 4 months or so at this point. Finally got the bike's configuration set once the new slipons were installed, so I've started autotune runs. My bike is a XL1200C with a Figure Machine XLFLOW-S1 air cleaner (K&N 3040 filter - wide one - under OEM ham can) and SE SP slipon pipes. I asked Jaimie at FuelMoto for a base map to use once the slipons were installed, and I also have the Dyno Jet SE air cleaner/SE pipes base map as well on the PV.

Interestingly enough, the base map that Jaimie sent is different enough from the Dynojet map that I'm a bit concerned as to how to proceed. I'm talking about things like MAP load normalization (1.0 in the Dyno Jet map, 0 in the Fuelmoto map), closed loop min temp, injector gas constant (1.0 in Dyno Jet map, 0 in Fuelmoto's), MPG adjustment (huge difference - 2062 in Dyno jet's map, 0 in Fuelmoto's), big difference in closed loop bias (440 in Dyno Jet's, 700 in Fuelmoto's), speedometer calibration (HUGE difference again - 2274 for Dyno Jet, 0 for Fuelmoto), closed throttle spark is WAY different (all 0 for Fuelmoto - varying advance up to 20 for Dyno Jet), and of course the spark tables are WAY different as well - with Dyno Jet's table advanced well more than Fuelmoto's.

So my questions have to do not with my "main" purpose of the autotune - which reading this thread makes clear. I know that I need to get my VE values to within 3 percent or more. My questions have to do with what seems to be fairly foundational stuff within the tune itself that seems to be fairly "zero'd out" in the Fuel Moto tune but fairly defined in the Dyno Jet tune.

Frankly, I'm confused - I did several autotuning runs on both tunes. After the runs, the bike runs well enough with either resultant tune; however, there is some decel pop with the Fuel Moto tune and overall that tune seems to not run quite as well as the autotuned Dyno Jet tune. On the other hand, the closed loop bias allows for a richer mix in the Fuelmoto tune - and I want the engine to run cooler and more correctly.

Help....

 

I think you're over analyzing things. You can autotune with either tune. Pick the one you like best.

In my experience, the Fuel Moto tunes are usually a bit more aggressive, and run better than the more generic Dynojet tunes, but if you feel you're getting better results with the DJ tune...just go with it. Autotune will most likely sort out either tune. I think for comparison purposes, you should probably be looking more at the AFR tables to differentiate the tunes.

If your only concern with the FM tune is decel pop, talk to Jamie and he will modify it to suit. Their support is excellent and he's done lots of mods for customers.

MPG and Speedometer calibrations have no effect on the tune...they are only used to calibrate the trip meter functions and will vary from bike to bike.
You probably want to zero them for now and adjust at fill-ups if you use these functions.

 

Since you can change the maps while riding, I would take the bike out and on the same day, same conditions, ride the bike with both maps and decide which one feels stronger to you. Take the stronger map and autotune that map going forward. Don't worry about the differences since the 2 maps may have been developed for your bike build but they may have been tuned under slightly different conditions.

 

Appreciate the advice...

My real "worry" is the closed throttle spark. Too many tuning smart folks here talk about having that table close to the spark timing table. The Fuel moto closed throttle spark is zeroed out completely. It's not even close - and that's where I feel the bike doesn't run as well with that tune - even after several autotune runs. It's the warm up/idle/etc. where the bike just seems "loose" for lack of a better term.

That combined with the overall much less aggressive spark table in general (for Jamie's tune) has me concerned.

It's all good - I wrote Jamie as well and will see what he says...

Cheers,
Jay

 

I would listen to Jamie and what he says on this... and for those that know me??? HAHA!

Sportsters are a different animal than big twins.

 

As noted in my email you are comparing 2 tunes done with different FW levels. The FM tune is not showing values for some fields, this however does not mean they are zeros. Different levels of FW have different tune items, and some items are moved to the PV device. In the FM tune you can update it in WinPv by selecting Power Vision>Update Tune Using PV. This will then show the additional tables including closed throttle spark etc.. The closed throttle spark, warmup/idle, etc.. are likely very similar or identical to the Dynojet maps for the same application (I may have even wrote both maps). It is good practice when comparing different tunes to update both of them first.

As far as ignition timing, we find that Sportsters like a bit less timing which can help with the part throttle abruptness.

If anyone has any questions you are welcome to contact us, all channels are always open

 

Awesome - and thanks for the email help. I'll update tunes per your instructions and go from there. I'll report back as well.

Cheers - Jay

 

Here's a dumb question: pull the bike out of garage and key it up to set auto-tune mode. Then key it off for 10 seconds. Then start the bike up and go for a ride. Then get home and then what? Confused about shut down and not losing data. Am I supposed to just sit on idling bike while applying new data to tune and saving to Tune Manager? Thanks for the help!