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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
What's the typical difference in volumetric efficiency between front and rear cylinders assuming a normal stage 1 upgrade and properly tuned?
There is nothing typical about VEs regardless of what's been done to the bike or what tuning device is being used. Way too many variables come into play.
Temp
Humidity
Barometric Pressure
Elevation
Timing
EGR
Air Cleaner
Exhaust
Condition of o2 sensors
Cylinder Head Temps
Last edited by UltraNutZ; May 8, 2014 at 09:14 AM.
like to see how the forum feels on this. I talked to the guy who has tuned my last 3 bikes and asked about the power vision.
He said "I'm not using PowerVision because it has the same limitation as all the
other ECM programmers, MasterTune, SERT, SESPT & Direct Link - namely the
ECM itself. It can't be live-tuned which multiplies tuning time by a
factor of 3, and it will only accept a narrow range of fuel adjustment. On
some bikes that leads to lean spots and decel pop that can't be fixed. Not
the results I want.
The PowerCommander 5 has none of those limitations. With a PCV I can get a
perfect tune with any configuration a bike has or might have in the
future.
Harleys come from the factory with the wrong munbers in the ECM. If
someone uses a programmer to change them to another set of wrong numbers I
can still correct for them with a PowerCommander"
He is a well respected tuner.
Now I am up in the air on which way to go .
like to see how the forum feels on this. I talked to the guy who has tuned my last 3 bikes and asked about the power vision.
He said "I'm not using PowerVision because it has the same limitation as all the
other ECM programmers, MasterTune, SERT, SESPT & Direct Link - namely the
ECM itself. It can't be live-tuned which multiplies tuning time by a
factor of 3, and it will only accept a narrow range of fuel adjustment. On
some bikes that leads to lean spots and decel pop that can't be fixed. Not
the results I want.
The PowerCommander 5 has none of those limitations. With a PCV I can get a
perfect tune with any configuration a bike has or might have in the
future.
Harleys come from the factory with the wrong munbers in the ECM. If
someone uses a programmer to change them to another set of wrong numbers I
can still correct for them with a PowerCommander"
He is a well respected tuner.
Now I am up in the air on which way to go .
Certainly not doubting or questioning the guys capabilities but reading between the lines here sounds to me like he's saying I don't have time to learn and tune with the best tuning devices available, I'll stick with what I know. "best tuning devices" meaning flash-based tuners and regardless of what he thinks, they are FAR superior to a PC.
you can tune the CFR s. but you're going to have to manually do it. I had a lot of the same issues with a set of Vance and Hines big shot duels until I figured out th e areas to not let it auto adjust ves. then I went to a 212 system with S&S mufflers and autotune was like night and day. takes considerable time and investment tuning a bike yourself when a component requires a little more than auto tune.
Last year I did a bunch of auto and log tuning. I lost my direction and got too involved with tweaking, resulting in a bad tune. So this year I started over with the downloaded tune from Dynojet for 2007 fxdb, stage1 ac and bub7's Then I did 5 auto tune runs and I noticed it acting leaner and hotter with every run. As the trims set in it got even worse. It also developed a random, light throttle misfire.
I looked at the ve's and compared the Dynojet map to the auto tune results. Everywhere that auto tuned it had lowered the ve's considerably, some cells by as much as 20.
Should I be concerned that there is a sensor issue?
I have added a HD stage 1 air cleaner and V&H twin slash slip ons. The rest is stock 2007 FXDB.
I did a compression test and it was fine. I also did a leak down test which showed 10%, all from the rings. Nothing from the intake or exhaust. So the valves appear OK.
I just wonder why the ve's keep going down.
Last year I did a bunch of auto and log tuning. I lost my direction and got too involved with tweaking, resulting in a bad tune. So this year I started over with the downloaded tune from Dynojet for 2007 fxdb, stage1 ac and bub7's Then I did 5 auto tune runs and I noticed it acting leaner and hotter with every run. As the trims set in it got even worse. It also developed a random, light throttle misfire.
I looked at the ve's and compared the Dynojet map to the auto tune results. Everywhere that auto tuned it had lowered the ve's considerably, some cells by as much as 20.
Should I be concerned that there is a sensor issue?
I have added a HD stage 1 air cleaner and V&H twin slash slip ons. The rest is stock 2007 FXDB.
I did a compression test and it was fine. I also did a leak down test which showed 10%, all from the rings. Nothing from the intake or exhaust. So the valves appear OK.
I just wonder why the ve's keep going down.
Any suggestions?
It's always a possibility that there's something mechanical that can mess with a tune. Sensors are the weak link in these DIY tuners. If they aren't reading correctly the tune will be flawed. One thing you could do is set the screen to show you O2 voltages. They should be bouncing up and down pretty quickly. If one is sluggish or lazy it's easy to see. If they look good I wouldn't worry about them. The light throttle misfire could be lean or could be timing. As far as the VE's changing the big question is how does it run. The VE numbers have a purpose but just looking at them won't tell you much. Unless of course theres a block or even a few that look suspect. I would keep making AT runs until they settle down and see how it runs. And, dont do any tweaking until the VE issue is resolved.
It seems that the more I AT the weaker, rougher and hotter it runs with the light throttle misfire. When I go back to the downloaded Dynojet tune it seems to run stronger. smoother and cooler. The timing is whatever Dynojet has in their map, I am not tweaking the timing for now.
The Dynojet tune number is 11D096002302.pvt
I checked for a vacuum leak by spraying WD-40 where the manifold meets the heads and around the throttle body at idle when hot but I never detected a change in the idle speed or sound.
It does seem like it is the rear cylinder that is missing.
I'll take a look at the O2 sensor data this weekend. Is there a way to check the TPS and MAP sensors through the PV?
It seems that the more I AT the weaker, rougher and hotter it runs with the light throttle misfire. When I go back to the downloaded Dynojet tune it seems to run stronger. smoother and cooler. The timing is whatever Dynojet has in their map, I am not tweaking the timing for now.
The Dynojet tune number is 11D096002302.pvt
I checked for a vacuum leak by spraying WD-40 where the manifold meets the heads and around the throttle body at idle when hot but I never detected a change in the idle speed or sound.
It does seem like it is the rear cylinder that is missing.
I'll take a look at the O2 sensor data this weekend. Is there a way to check the TPS and MAP sensors through the PV?
Its likely your type exhaust system as long as your sensors are not reversed or damaged in anyway is rear cylinder spark plug wire good?. If you think it all checks out good mechanically you have to manually adjust those bad VE spots same thing happen to me with a set of V&H big shot duals.
What I did was let the VEs auto adjust that seem ok and stabilized and the areas that were unstable and going down by 20 that's the same that was happing to me. I manually raised the VEs back up and used the smoothing in winpv. I got my bike running ok. But when I changed exhaust systems the auto tune was like night and day I could see right off first couple runs the VEs and how much more stable they seem to be.
I already tried new plugs and wires when it started to miss. I'm pretty sure the O2 sensors are plugged in right as well as the injectors.
I bought the bike used so I have no idea what the PO did to it.
I did change the slip on's over the winter. I had some SE slip on's with some home made baffles in them. They did seem to tune better than these V&H's do.
I might try some lollipops and see if it makes them tune better.
I'll try things one step at a time.
I already tried new plugs and wires when it started to miss. I'm pretty sure the O2 sensors are plugged in right as well as the injectors.
I bought the bike used so I have no idea what the PO did to it.
I did change the slip on's over the winter. I had some SE slip on's with some home made baffles in them. They did seem to tune better than these V&H's do.
I might try some lollipops and see if it makes them tune better.
I'll try things one step at a time.
Put the SE's back on and make a couple runs. On a Stage 1 the SE's are fine. Alot dog them out but on a S1 they actually work fine. If they tune better then that might be your best bet. V&H's have a reputation for not being tuner friendly, from a DIYer standpoint anyway. If the bike is mechanically sound it should tune up just fine. You will never know if it's lean without paying someone to make a quick run or two on a dyno. I get the feeling you're overthinking things. 07 came out of the box lean to start with. Another option, if you're confident the sensors are good and no other issues, is to make 4 or 5 more AT runs and then run it open loop. The problem with these fisher price tuners is you're at the mercy of what the bikes sytem does and how the tuning device interprets the data. Versus, a pro on a dyno relies on his sytem to determine whats coming out of the exhaust. Obviously, the pro tuner will always achieve better results.
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