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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 08:53 PM
  #8271  
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Originally Posted by fuelmoto
I STRONGLY suggest NOT zero'ing the CDE tables as it will directly affect fuel delivery and doing so would throw VE into a tailspin, it will also need to be completely retuned. The specific CDE tables in a given tune were used when the calibration was developed and they directly affect the fuel equation, there are also other factors tied into this table as well. I'll explain further...

CDE is not difficult to understand, and for those familiar with computer code it is actually pretty easy. The function of the CDE tables is to allow the ECM to better predict the EGR effect the motor is seeing at light load, this effect is a result of reversion and can/will vary based on variables such as cam overlap, throttle body, and exhaust system design. Since we cant accurately measure what that is going on within the motor in this respect the CDE table is used to help levelize the VE table, think of CDE as a Gain that allows you to add or reduce fuel delivery, it is independent from VE and part of the fuel equation. Many have likely wondered why VE tables go higher than 100 when it is impossible to achieve a volumetric efficiency of more than 100% (without forced induction), the VE in our ECM is simply a numerical representation from code. For computer guys, you probably noticed that the max VE value is 127.5, (half of 256/hexadecimal). The CDE tables allow us to somewhat smooth/levelize the VE's (below 60kpa). In areas that are near/at the 127.5 limit adjusting the CDE values down moves the window of adjustment down so to speak (remember my reference to Gain). The CDE value directly affects fuel delivery, raising it adds fuel, lowering the values remove fuel. As far as smoothing the VE's it can help in some applications, others not as much, and in some examples VE is going to end up with peaks, mountains and valley's, it all depends on what the motor wants. Where we generally use CDE is in the 3000-4500 range on motors with semi aggressive cams, this really helps get the VE in place at light/mid loads without having to go crazy raising the displacement constant.
Thank you! Finally someone that isn't just guessing. Would love to see more posts from you.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 09:14 PM
  #8272  
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Averting the pissing contest. Power vision has no decent case available. I did some experimenting and found this neoprene case fits like a glove. For $10 it is way better than the cheap sleeve DJ has for it. Pics and link.
Amazon.com : Black Neoprene Sleeve for your Nikon Cool Pix S70 S100 S2600 S3000 S3100 S3200 S3300 S4000 S4100 S4200 S4300 S6200 S6300 Compact Digital Point and Shoot Camera : Camera Cases : Camera & Photo Amazon.com : Black Neoprene Sleeve for your Nikon Cool Pix S70 S100 S2600 S3000 S3100 S3200 S3300 S4000 S4100 S4200 S4300 S6200 S6300 Compact Digital Point and Shoot Camera : Camera Cases : Camera & Photo


 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 10:14 PM
  #8273  
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Yeh I have a case from an old TomTom gps. I have a pile of mobile phone / pda clips and such- working on a clip mounting system inside my solo bag- i leave it in there when doing log and tuning runs and right now it's kind of flopping around.

Finally made good progress on off idle and roll-on spark table areas (70-100kpa and 1000-1750 rpm area). took quite a few log runs and tweaks but she's running about as mean as can be for now. I really need to get the seat re-done, I'm about coming right off it if I hit it hard from a stop.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 10:19 PM
  #8274  
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Originally Posted by LA_Dog
Yeh I have a case from an old TomTom gps. I have a pile of mobile phone / pda clips and such- working on a clip mounting system inside my solo bag- i leave it in there when doing log and tuning runs and right now it's kind of flopping around.

Finally made good progress on off idle and roll-on spark table areas (70-100kpa and 1000-1750 rpm area). took quite a few log runs and tweaks but she's running about as mean as can be for now. I really need to get the seat re-done, I'm about coming right off it if I hit it hard from a stop.
Look at BMC Corbin the wall seat. No flying off that one.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 10:30 PM
  #8275  
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Originally Posted by slyedog
Look at BMC Corbin the wall seat. No flying off that one.
that's a nice seat but i would not like how it looks on the Breakout- I'll probably end up having the stock seat reshaped and re-covered, I kind of have a specific shape in mind and I have a very good upholsterer locally- he's done a few seats for me.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 10:52 PM
  #8276  
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I really need to get the seat re-done, I'm about coming right off it if I hit it hard from a stop.

I had a open mind on this thread until I saw this. (LMAO) You can hammer that basically stock bike all you want with whatever tune that you can fabricate and put in it, however it's only gonna pull you off the seat like you represent if your *** is greased up.

Its basically a 80HP/100TQ stage one turd, with a big front wheel.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 11:13 PM
  #8277  
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Originally Posted by oleboy
I really need to get the seat re-done, I'm about coming right off it if I hit it hard from a stop.

I had a open mind on this thread until I saw this. (LMAO) You can hammer that basically stock bike all you want with whatever tune that you can fabricate and put in it, however it's only gonna pull you off the seat like you represent if your *** is greased up.

Its basically a 80HP/100TQ stage one turd, with a big front wheel.
The issue with seat is it's flat and slippery. Bike is about in line for stage1 engine hp/tq. The shorter ratio gearing and increasing off idle timing above the stock detuned values adds a lot more pull and faster accel so it only makes the seat issue worse. A lot of other Breakout owners have commented on similar issue when riding without the passenger pillion seat. Front wheel is the stock 21" size, like many of the current HD softail / dynas.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 12:01 AM
  #8278  
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Originally Posted by LA_Dog
The issue with seat is it's flat and slippery. Bike is about in line for stage1 engine hp/tq. The shorter ratio gearing and increasing off idle timing above the stock detuned values adds a lot more pull and faster accel so it only makes the seat issue worse. A lot of other Breakout owners have commented on similar issue when riding without the passenger pillion seat. Front wheel is the stock 21" size, like many of the current HD softail / dynas.
Whatever. Like I said before, that bike is only gonna pull you off the seat like you represented if your *** is greased up. Given your upgrades, your bike is just not going to make that kind of power. You can auto tune, target tune or whatever tune until you are blue in the face. That bike is still not going to make that kind of power.

If you want power that's going to pull you off the seat, I recommend seeking out a builder/tuner rather than fiddle farting around with your EFI tuner.
 

Last edited by oleboy; Mar 9, 2016 at 12:36 AM.
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 01:39 AM
  #8279  
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Originally Posted by oleboy
Whatever. Like I said before, that bike is only gonna pull you off the seat like you represented if your *** is greased up. Given your upgrades, your bike is just not going to make that kind of power. You can auto tune, target tune or whatever tune until you are blue in the face. That bike is still not going to make that kind of power.

If you want power that's going to pull you off the seat, I recommend seeking out a builder/tuner rather than fiddle farting around with your EFI tuner.
As I already said, the bike is typical for stage1. The sliding issue is with the stock seat and it's specific to this model of bike. It's problematic with the bike stock and only gets worse if adding any power. Here's one thread to reference if you want to learn about something that is already common knowledge: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...kout-seat.html - lots of other threads here on the topic as well.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 02:20 AM
  #8280  
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Originally Posted by oleboy
Whatever. Like I said before, that bike is only gonna pull you off the seat like you represented if your *** is greased up. Given your upgrades, your bike is just not going to make that kind of power. You can auto tune, target tune or whatever tune until you are blue in the face. That bike is still not going to make that kind of power.

If you want power that's going to pull you off the seat, I recommend seeking out a builder/tuner rather than fiddle farting around with your EFI tuner.
LA Dog is just having fun. He enjoys the ability to do self tuning. I used to too. Now I don't have time and get it tuned. Do take into consideration that with 30/70 combo the bike will have a lot more takeoff than stock. Either way the post was taken out of context and continuing to try to beat the guy down to earth, post something relevant or move on. I am sure he knows he has nothing special . This sticky and others have so much useful info intertwined with so much other useless crap it is near impossible to navigate. A target tune version should be segregated from this sticky for sure but for now it is what it is. Either way it has some great contributors and stays fairly active.
 
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