Power Vision Information Thread
And where is the adjustment for changing the closed loop bias? I see only a few closed loop options, or I may be looking at the wrong thing?
Thanks
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/the-d...h-tune-pv.html
This won't help you.
But to answer your question, setting AFR to 14.6 will lean out the fuel mix even more.
But then setting the Closed Loop Bias table to 700 will then bias fuel tables to run richer then they are set.
But you apparently have a Speed-Density calibration, which does not have a Closed Loop Bias table.
It instead uses a Closed Loop Lambda table to set the parameters of the O2 sensors. It does not work the same as in the Alph-N calibration.
This is an example of why just posting a few screen-shots does not work, because you can't see the whole picture.
Being specific with the problems also helps. When is it hot? Just at idle? ( try dropping your idle fuel range down to 14.3 and see if that helps ) or is it all the time ( then drop all those 14.5 down to 14.4, if that doesn't work, go to 14.3 ) and see how it goes.
But fuel mileage will suffer, and just because it runs cooler does not mean it is running right.
Again, your decision.
If so, did you then Update the Tune using PV ... ?
Connect the PV unit.
Then up top, under the Power Vision tab, click on Update Tune using PV.
You can only update one at a time, and it will add the word Updated to the file name (so you don't over write the original one )
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My problem is that I already have auxiliary driving lights connected to the diagnostic port. I'm told that the lights need to be powered through the diagnostic port because of the Canbus. Unless I want to power the lights directly from the battery which would obviously not provide ignition switched power to the lights.
One suggested alternative is to get a second pigtail. So I'd plug the pigtail into the pigtail to get three positions for the 1) Target Tune, 2) Power Vision, and 3) Aux Driving Lights.
Has anyone tried this and if so have you had any problems with it? I'm told that the only problem might be when flashing the ECM if the aux lights are turned on. So the simple solution to this is to only attempt a flash with the aux driving lights turned off.
My problem is that I already have auxiliary driving lights connected to the diagnostic port. I'm told that the lights need to be powered through the diagnostic port because of the Canbus. Unless I want to power the lights directly from the battery which would obviously not provide ignition switched power to the lights.
One suggested alternative is to get a second pigtail. So I'd plug the pigtail into the pigtail to get three positions for the 1) Target Tune, 2) Power Vision, and 3) Aux Driving Lights.
Has anyone tried this and if so have you had any problems with it? I'm told that the only problem might be when flashing the ECM if the aux lights are turned on. So the simple solution to this is to only attempt a flash with the aux driving lights turned off.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
My problem is that I already have auxiliary driving lights connected to the diagnostic port. I'm told that the lights need to be powered through the diagnostic port because of the Canbus. Unless I want to power the lights directly from the battery which would obviously not provide ignition switched power to the lights.
One suggested alternative is to get a second pigtail. So I'd plug the pigtail into the pigtail to get three positions for the 1) Target Tune, 2) Power Vision, and 3) Aux Driving Lights.
Has anyone tried this and if so have you had any problems with it? I'm told that the only problem might be when flashing the ECM if the aux lights are turned on. So the simple solution to this is to only attempt a flash with the aux driving lights turned off.
https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson....ive=false&.pdf
Because of this issue I'm rethinking the install of Target Tune and may just go with the Power Vision itself and stick to narrow band O2 sensors and no closed loop.
Last edited by UrbanRunner; Aug 31, 2016 at 11:15 PM.








