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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
No, the tune is in closed loop. I think I'm forgetting a step in the process to turn it on or run it correctly. (This happened a couple years ago and now I've forgotten what I had done wrong)
I can't get Autotune (basic) to work, to fill the fields in the green screen at all.
The green screen appears blank and the little outline box appears and moves all over the screen as usual while I'm riding, but no hits are being registered in any box. When I turn it off it says 0% change in all parameters.
I'm following the Dynojet instructions. I've flashed this bike with AutoTune a hundred times! But I haven't played with it in a year.
Is there a better set of instructions for Autotune?
Dumb question:
did you ride long enough for the engine to warm up?
Are you saying it is in closed loop because of your AFR table, or did you check that selection under Limits and Switches as well?
Originally Posted by Broken Wing
... I've flashed this bike with AutoTune a hundred times! But I haven't played with it in a year.
Is there a better set of instructions for Autotune?
Uh ...
Well, since it is telling you the O2 sensors are open ( NBF:O = narrowband front open, etc. )
I would start there.
Are the narrow band sensors hooked up?
Is that the only code it is giving you?
Did you play with spark adjustment at one time and forget to reset the PV to autotune VE?
Did you log the data and check what it is telling you?
Guys, I have a 2007 bike, so no Fly-By-Wire throttle for me. But a good friend has a 09 Ultra with the TBW and he has been complaining forever that the first gear hesitation when he is stopped at a light or in traffic drives him nutz if not is an outright safety hazard.
I think there's a good fix for this in the PowerVision, but I don't know and have no experience with this. Anyone ever experience this slow-speed TBW hesitation and does the PV fix it?
He's got a PC5 now with cams and it runs well, but this TBW thing is getting him to think he's going to sell the bike, but he'd really rather not.
Guys, I have a 2007 bike, so no Fly-By-Wire throttle for me. But a good friend has a 09 Ultra with the TBW and he has been complaining forever that the first gear hesitation when he is stopped at a light or in traffic drives him nutz if not is an outright safety hazard.
I think there's a good fix for this in the PowerVision, but I don't know and have no experience with this. Anyone ever experience this slow-speed TBW hesitation and does the PV fix it?
He's got a PC5 now with cams and it runs well, but this TBW thing is getting him to think he's going to sell the bike, but he'd really rather not.
Any input? Thanks in advance.
Copyright Infringemnet
what all has he done to the bike? and can you get him to pull the calibration off the PC-V and post it here for us to look at. It's likely a very minor setting that needs to be made in the low RPM range.
I have the exact same issue with mine (2011 FXDC) that I purchased late last year. I posted about it in this thread many pages back. Didn't try mounting it on the bike until a few months later to try the autotune and gauge features. Sometimes the unit freezes in a matter of seconds and sometimes goes up to 20 minutes and everything in between. I've barely been able to ride since March due to health issues and have waited too long I'm sure to contact anyone about replacing the unit. It will start back up immediately after exiting and re-entering gauges. Not a real happy customer but I should have tried the unit when I first got it instead of just loading a tune and forgetting about it as long as I have. Very nice product that I wish worked the way it should. I'll just continue using it for loading tunes if needed and not run it on the bike. I do find the gauges distracting anyway and find myself looking at them when I need to be watching the road instead.
A few weeks back after my post #8672 I decided to buy a couple of ferrite chokes from Radio Shack. I added one at the connector about 2" from the PV unit on the cord and then I added one about 2" from the ECM data port connection on the PV cord. My wire is run the same way, temporary but secure as described, and I can say I've not had a freeze since. I have run close to 12 AT sessions for 15 to 20 mins each and ran for 30 to 45 mins with the gauges on to see if the PV froze for multiple rides. It has not froze or glitched. Now that the PV is not freezing I'm shocked at the screen updates I see. Meaning the CODES it shows in white letters/numbers when you ride now that it's active during my sessions.
While I can't guarantee this fix...I've had great success. And for the $5.00 for both snap on over the wire ferrite chokes to me it was well worth it.
Does anyone else have the coating coming off their PV screen? Mine is peeling off the bottom about 1/2". I haven't cleaned it with anything weird. I wash the bike with HD wash and use a micro fibre towel to wipe off the PV screen to remove finger prints. It is one of the 1st units sold.
A few weeks back after my post #8672 I decided to buy a couple of ferrite chokes from Radio Shack. I added one at the connector about 2" from the PV unit on the cord and then I added one about 2" from the ECM data port connection on the PV cord. My wire is run the same way, temporary but secure as described, and I can say I've not had a freeze since. I have run close to 12 AT sessions for 15 to 20 mins each and ran for 30 to 45 mins with the gauges on to see if the PV froze for multiple rides. It has not froze or glitched. Now that the PV is not freezing I'm shocked at the screen updates I see. Meaning the CODES it shows in white letters/numbers when you ride now that it's active during my sessions.
While I can't guarantee this fix...I've had great success. And for the $5.00 for both snap on over the wire ferrite chokes to me it was well worth it.
GOOD LUCK!
I will give that a try. Thanks for the info. My wire runs under the tank, but I have everything tied as far a way from everything as possible.
what all has he done to the bike? and can you get him to pull the calibration off the PC-V and post it here for us to look at. It's likely a very minor setting that needs to be made in the low RPM range.
Thanks, I'll try to get that from him and post it.
So far, what he has is a PC-V, with a cam, I'm not sure what one, stock engine other than expensive V&H 2-into-2 X Pipe headers with those big rectangular muffflers.
He had it dyno'd at a place here in Mass with a pretty good reputation, but this TBW "feature" that the EPA has built into the initial take off annoys the hell out of him. He thinks he's heard there is a switch/fix that is accessible with a PV that might fix this.
Below is one of the emails I sent related to the power-vision capability, from Dynojet. My PCV doesnt have any ability to modify any tables, only to modify the fuel output from the ECM as a function of speed and throttle position.
This is what the Dynojet FAQ has to say:
Performance FAQs
How do I make the throttle go to 1 to 1 on my fly-by-wire bike? Back to Top
On the fly-by-wire bikes, the ECM controls the action of the throttle butterfly, based on the twist grip position. There are two tables in the tune that control this butterfly vs. the twist grip; Throttle Blade Control, and Throttle Blade Control Alternate. There is a third field that controls what gear these two tables are used, Throttle Table Transition Gear. The factory setting for TTTG is 3. This means the Throttle Blade Control table is used for gears 1-3, and the Alternate table is used for gears 4-6. If you change the TTTG value to 6, the bike will use the more aggressive Alternate table for every gear. If you want to make the throttle even more aggressive, change the values in Alternate table to higher values, up to the value at the top of each column.
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