I tried looking there but i think it has been removed from public access.

 

I just upgraded the 2013 Sportie with new V&H Straight Shots. Got a new base MAP from FM.

Am attempting to run AT with the factory O2 sensors/narrowband.

I've had the PV unit since last July and have only really used it to load MAPS and use the gauge(s) feature to monitor stuff. Not much AT experience.

BUT here is what I have...

Cord is plugged into data port on bike and zip tied under the main bike fuse in that area and then cord runs up to seat and lies nicely between leather tank bra and seat as it crosses over to the right side of the bike. I then have it taped on top of tank up to handle bars. Leaving slack to be able to turn bars point to point I have the cord zip tied to the bars to reach over to the mount I have on the bars where the PV sits on a grip tech mount. PV wire is zip tied under bars with the other OEM wires to look somewhat neat.

OK...here's the problem. The cord is not shielded as we know. I ride around for 25 mins on back roads and highway a bit to get some HITS on the green excel looking page of AT. About 12 to 15 mins in the ride while coming off a highway I look down and the RPMS are not moving on the green screen anymore. And the colored squares seem to be staying the same with no updates. I’ve some red/orange and some green. I pulled over and hit EXIT from that screen and went back into the AT green screen and the RPMS are now moving again. I finish the ride and the screen stays active till I return home.

SO is the AT MAP botched that I was working on creating or did it pick up where it left off once I exited out and go back in? The same cells were colored when I went back in...meaning they were not all returned to GREEN. And the bike was still running as I did not turn it off. Obviously I had a glitch or spike somewhere while on the highway at higher rpms. I thought the way I had run the PV wire that it would be far enough from any EMF or interference to keep the PV operating correctly. I am way far away from the spark plugs since they are on the LEFT side and I ran the wire over the tank where the seat meets it to the right side of the bike on top of the tank. Anyone think the OEM wires under the bars have some EMF in them and I should remove the PV wire away from them and keep it on top of the bars?

YES one other time last week I ran the wire similarly as I explained above but I had the data plug positioned right OVER the main bike fuse and I ran the PV with the gauges ON. In about 20 mins of riding the gauges went blank. I pulled over and exited out of the gauges. Went back in and they were active again. When this happened I decided to keep the data plug under the main fuse for the run this past weekend when I tried the AT session. Well that didn’t improve things really. The PV didn’t lock up but the screens definitely froze in BOTH rides with the cable run similarly.

I’m thinking to run AT I may put the PV in my left saddle bag wrapped in a towel and have the wire far enough away from the bikes EMF.

Wondering if I can wrap the PV wire with some form of wire cover that will insulate it from EMF.

Any suggestions? I do really like the system but am not happy about the interference and freezing. Thought I was being very careful with the wire placement. ???

THANKS for any tips!

 

I haven't read to see where your FW version of the PV are at, but I would start there. If they are up to date then..

I would start from scratch and route the PV cable away from the ignition/spark plugs/etc again... I find it hard to believe there is any other EMF that could be coming from the bike, other than ignition, that could be strong enough to couple into the PV data cable. You could try isolating it your saddle bag and if it fails there, maybe you have a faulty cable/PV.

I used the PV on my 48 many times and routed the cable on both sides of my tank and never had any issues.

 

Unless you wrap the cable around the plug wires things should be fine. If you are running solid copper or similar non-suppression wires with non resist plugs running anywhere near them would be an issue, but over the tank is plenty of seperation and up the bars are fine.

Hook the PV up to a computer with active inet and run pvupdate, make sure current firmware/etc.

 

I saw the purpose but didn't feel it was completely necessary to buy one, until I had PayPal money laying around recently. I must say this is hands down THE BEST thing Ive added to my bike.

After running autotune for probably 1,000 miles and creating a really nice map in the past, sending that map off and running it on the new target tune has seriously changed the entire motorcycle. The throttle response is insane, I can't believe how crisp and reactive it is now. Ive managed to pick up about 2mpg off of some aggressive "cruising range" throttle input as well. Setting my high end ranges to 12.8-12.9 has definitely made a difference up top, the bike pulls a little harder and doesn't fall off as much as it did before. The AFRs are SPOT ON to what Ive put on my tables as well.

If you already have the power vision and autotune I HIGHLY recommend you spend the extra money and buy this module, there is simply no way you'll be disappointed.

I bought mine from Fuel Moto here on the site, I recommend sending them your tuned map (if you have one already) as soon as you purchase so that it will be ready for flashing when you receive your target tune package.

 

Fellas, I need a little advice.
In autotune mode my bike isn't registering hits on the green screen like it used to.
It just says NBF:0 NBR:0

I've had it three years and just updated the firmware. What step am I forgetting to get it to register hits?

Key on
run switch on
Program vehicle, Auto tune, pick tune, Basic OEM narrow band,
It writes to the ECM. And then I shut it off for 10 seconds.

Then I start the bike, program vehicle, hit autotune, see the green screen but no hits are registering in any box as I ride.
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks

 

The narrowband sensors are in open loop.

Did you have the tune in open loop and forget to put it back into closed loop?

(under Limits & Switches)
.

 

I have the exact same issue with mine (2011 FXDC) that I purchased late last year. I posted about it in this thread many pages back. Didn't try mounting it on the bike until a few months later to try the autotune and gauge features. Sometimes the unit freezes in a matter of seconds and sometimes goes up to 20 minutes and everything in between. I've barely been able to ride since March due to health issues and have waited too long I'm sure to contact anyone about replacing the unit. It will start back up immediately after exiting and re-entering gauges. Not a real happy customer but I should have tried the unit when I first got it instead of just loading a tune and forgetting about it as long as I have. Very nice product that I wish worked the way it should. I'll just continue using it for loading tunes if needed and not run it on the bike. I do find the gauges distracting anyway and find myself looking at them when I need to be watching the road instead.

 

No, the tune is in closed loop. I think I'm forgetting a step in the process to turn it on or run it correctly. (This happened a couple years ago and now I've forgotten what I had done wrong)


I can't get Autotune (basic) to work, to fill the fields in the green screen at all.
The green screen appears blank and the little outline box appears and moves all over the screen as usual while I'm riding, but no hits are being registered in any box. When I turn it off it says 0% change in all parameters.

I'm following the Dynojet instructions. I've flashed this bike with AutoTune a hundred times! But I haven't played with it in a year.
Is there a better set of instructions for Autotune?

 

This is a Dynojet tune...
Can a tune be locked by the Mfr? If so, how can I tell?