Hello,

I have a 05' FLHT and recently installed a set of SE204 cams to go along with my Vance & hines true dual exhaust and stage 1 SE filter. The only map I was able to locate from PowerCommander directly had none for cams. If they did, they were for the 95" kits. I don't have the cash at the moment for a tune, can someone pm me their map with similar specs? Again, I have the 88" motor, vance & hines true dual exhaust, stage 1 SE filter and SE204 cams. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I tried the map from PowerCommander and it's really "boggy" around 3000 RPM's and hickups in 1st gear alot.

Please help!

 

I suggest calling them. Their phone number is on their website. I did this when I installed my PCV and they recommended a map and upgraded my PCV while I was on the phone with then. They were extremely helpful.

 

Thank for the info. I will give them a call in the morning when they open up!

 

Perfect time to dive into the PC program and tweak it yourself, but unless you have a laptop it will be a real hassle.
I have a Macbook with VM Fusion, so I am able to run the PC program just as if I had a Windows machine. (No PC program for Mac)
You learn some of the basics on what changes to make as you go, (there a few rules of thumb to get you started) and you'll soon know when to add/remove fuel, retard or advance timing, etc. You will be able to get real close especially if your initial map is somewhat close.
Paying big $$$ for a dyno tune doesn't guarantee you sh**, IMO. Don't ask me....long story.

CN

 

I do have access to a computer and actually work with computers for a living, but the fuel maps look very confusing to me and I don't want to mess too much up!

 

I wouldn't worry about it. The PC program is just like anything else; they look daunting 'til you've spent some time with it, build some familiarity, and have a half assed idea of what the numbers mean and use a few rules of thumb to make changes in response to what a test ride of your bike is telling you.
The key thing IMO is having nice quick access to the USB port on the Power Commander so you can make changes quickly and get a test ride in right away. Screwing around with anything but a laptop right next to the bike won't work. Before I got a laptop, I was messing with the map on a desktop and loading the map with the PC off the bike, and then installing the PC again. Extremely difficult and painful.
Just from what you've stated in your first post, I have a good idea what changes need to be made to improve parts of the map you've got now. Easy.
How about posting up the map as it is now; both cylinders, and make sure to include the timing tables as well.

CN

 

I've attached all of the files. I initially was using the 179 map (2005 HD Touring Model, Vance & Hines True dual headers, Vance & Hines oval slip-ons, Scremin Eagle air filter & Stock ECM) which to me is the closest but doesn't have any adjustments for cams. After calling PC, they recommended the 135 map (2004 Touring Model, True dual headers, Vance & Hines slashcut slip-ons, Screamin Eagle 95" kit, Screamin Eagle 203 cams, Screamin Eagle air box) which has many things I don't. I loaded that map but have not had a chance to test it as it's rainy/snowy again here in MN. Any help you can provide would be great!

 

At first glance I'd be inclined to stay with the current fuel map (although I sure don't like to see all the '15' settings in the zero throttle position) You often add small amounts of fuel down there to eliminate stalling at idle, but not those kind of numbers.
I also figured to see too much fuel as the reason for your bogging problems around 3000 rpm, but upon seeing the map it occurs to me you might want some timing advance throughout the range where you are are anticipating acceleration, but getting bogging. (in the end, you might wind up with lower fuel numbers here, but for now I'd play with the timing)
Stock 88s run pretty lean from the dealer, (to meet emission standards) so you'd expect your gas mileage to go down when you go about adding fuel to improve cooling. (and improve running) However, while you go about doing all the improvements to your bike like better flowing intake and exhaust systems , cams, and often headwork, the engine becomes way more efficient, so you actually see improved gas mileage, not worse like you'd expect. I use that as a guide as I play with the fuel numbers. If I see my gas consumption go 'up' I remove fuel where I can get away with it. I typically watch the places I remove it from 'cause I don't want to hinder performance, (away from places where I do want it; like passing rpm) so I tend to take it out in places where I am at 'cruise'....in top gear nearer highest speeds, top gear at freeway speeds, and so so speeds in 4th gear, where I want economy and are less likely to want to get hard on the gas.
I typically run the front cylinder a bit leaner than the rear since it sits out in the airflow more than the rear cylinder, so you can get way with it.
Timing-wise, as I remove fuel, I advance the timing. As I increase fuel, I retard the timing. (moving toward '0' numbers, away from the 'minus' numbers. Firing later, than sooner) For the record, I don't have even one + timing number in any of my maps. Mostly the timing ranges from -4s to 0s.
Remember, you will be asked to save each map as you go to upload a new one so you can always revert to a previous map. I have probably a dozen maps in my computer. You can make notations to each map to keep an eye on the differences between all the different versions, and any changes you made to your bike.

What you've got seems to be an OK start. It's easier to start with something, than with a clean slate, IMO. I just start playing with numbers, uploading changes, and riding the bike. I keep a note of places where I think it fails to perform or runs crappy. I see how it idles, how it accelerates. When I get on the gas I look to see it responds quickly; as little lagas possible. Moving timing might be enough to fix it or adding a bit of gas, or not. I alway think 'less fuel' than 'more fuel'. Less will be closer to the economy target.
Think about where can you get away removing fuel and where you think it could use some more? Again, all of this should point you in a direction of better fuel economy, not worse, although you'll not get a real gauge of this until you get out on an extended ride. As a rule of thumb, if I add fuel somewhere, I try to remove it from where I know it won't hurt things or reduce performance, and will pay off in economy. Performance is #1, economy will be the result once you've got it close.

Last time I played with my bike I had been thinking it didn't pull down 'low' like it ought to. It pulled real hard from about 3000 rpm and up, so this was what I was attempting to duplicate.
I fed in a bunch of fuel from just off idle to the point where it always pulled hard from. (using the 'better' range numbers as a guide) I kept the numbers higher initially, offsetting it with changes to timing. I didn't worry too much, it would all get sorted out in the end. When I got it pulling like I thought it ought to, I pulled fuel 'til it I didn't think I could go any lower, and then adjusted the timing one way or another without going overboard.
Now my bike pulls real hard right from the bottom, all the way to redline. If anything, I figure I now could tweak the higher end again 'cause it seems to fall 'off' a bit after 3500 rpm. (compared to the 'new' bottom end) When I'm out on the highway next, I'll get an idea on my gas mileage.
I guess what I'm saying is, just make the changes to the fuel and timing by paying attention to how the bike runs. If there are places where the bike runs crappy or just so-so and then 'cleans up' as rpm goes up, or when you add or reduce throttle, compare how the map numbers are between the two conditions. Adjust the lousy numbers to some closer to the 'good' numbers. Also IMO, it wouldn't hurt to have an idea what your bike is capable of delivering in the beginning as a target, but as you go along you'll soon find out what improves things, and what doesn't. The more you play, the better you'll get at it. Having a tach would be nice, but I've never had one.
Ultimately you want to get your bike to perform as best you can while maintaining high 40 Mpg economy, or more. There are guys on this site who have bikes that get real decent gas mileage that produce real monsterous HP and TQ.

Hope this helps.

CN

 

Thank you for you input and advice! Any chance you can recommend if one of the maps I attached is better than the other to start from? I averaged a couple of maps, stock ecm & stage1 download and am curious which is better to start with. Side note, I see the Stage 1 has values in 6500 RPM but my bike red lines before that, can those be 0'd out?

 

Doesn't the Stage one download allow the revs to run higher? In my mind that's why you see the rev range extended on that map.

I figure either map is OK since you'll end up changing almost everything anyway. My way of thinking is as long as the bike has half-assed rideability that's all you'll need to start out with. If the bike seems to stumble off idle get some single digit numbers into the '0' throttle position boxes and low throttle positions. (at low revs)
I'd think you'll want some minus numbers in the 'coming up on the powerband' timing boxes on the timing tables. Maybe -1, and -2 where you want to be seeing some reasonable acceleration, etc. (my timing tables run -4 at max and higher; towards '0' for the most part, and my bike has pretty fair amt. of mods). I'm thinking you'd get away with nothing more extreme than -1s and -2s, and '0's for the most part.
Once you've played around with the numbers a bit, and have done some test rides after changes, you'll start getting the hang of it. It becomes fairly apparent when the bike fails to respond to throttle inputs, (too low fuel numbers in the range, or not enough advance in the timing numbers)

If you get stuck, maybe you can E-mail me the map and I can play with it a bit. You can then try it and report back as to what seems to be working, and what doesn't.
For the most part, it's a lot easier than you think. It won't be the same as having a custom dyno tune done by someone decent, but with time you'll get pretty damn close. You know what numbers you ought to be getting with regard to MPG, so that limits the high end of the fuel numbers you input. We already know the 'range' you'll keep the timing numbers in, so the most important spots are going to be the places where the odd subtraction or addition of fuel and timing will make your bike perform where you'll want it to. Just get the bike rideable and go from there. I would think your bike won't do much below 3000 rpm, and will start to pull best from 3500 rpm and up, so use that as your gauge as to where the revs are while you go out on test rides, since you don't have a tach. That's what I do.
After you've got it real close, you'll find you'll go on rides and find some little 'finicky' bit that you'll feel the need to tweak. By then you'll have an idea where it is in the rev range, and an idea what it'll take to tune it out.

Just go for it. Get your bike out on a stretch of road where you can pull some 'power' runs and make mental notes of where it 'goes', and where it doesn't.

CN