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04 screaming eagle deuce electrical trouble

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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 02:55 PM
  #1  
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Default 04 screaming eagle deuce electrical trouble

Went to start the deuce from storage. Battery was stone cold dead. Tried to start boost it with two separate chargers and it would click but wouldn't crank. Finally had to boost it with a pickup. Rode it a couple blocks to put gas in, left it idle while fueling, took off down the street and it died. Noticed all the gauges had quit too. Boosted it again and took off for home at high rpm thinking it just wasn't charging at low rpm. Bout halfway home I noticed the engine light, low fuel light, and oil pressure light were on. Then the tach quit, then the gauges quit altogether, then it started cutting out at high rpm. I got it home thinking the batt must be totally shot. I pulled the batt, trickle charged it all day, hooked it to a digital smart batt tester, and it tested 100% twice. I should mention the batt is a less than a year old Harley oem replacement. I had heard they had a bad run of batts in 11 but it tests great. I haven't tried to reinstall it yet. I have a power commander 3 on the bike that's been there all last year. I did have the installer of it re-dyno my bike this winter. I noticed when I got it back that it would just click. I didn't do anything about it at the time which is my fault.... I should also mention the bike has been in heated storage since the new batt. Never in freezing temps. The batt has a tender lead on it ( I know I know, I didn't use it), and a similar lead for my wife's heated vest.

Do we think the batt is still the culprit even though it's testing good?

Any other ideas?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 02:58 PM
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You coulda messed something up jumping from a truck?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by soft 02
You coulda messed something up jumping from a truck?
My thought as well. Harley has a 1 year warranty on their batteries and write the date on them when you buy them for this reason. Take it out of the bike, take it back to the dealer and get a new one. My guess is the battery has a bad cell.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2012 | 07:33 PM
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How would jumping it from another 12 volt battery cause a problem? Also, the battery tests 100% good. Not only does that hurt my diagnosis, but the dealer is going to load test the batt when I attempt to warranty it. If it tests good, they're not going to hand over a new one. I sure would like to try a new batt to rule it out though.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 08:35 PM
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Come on guys! I know you can lead me down the right path here.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2012 | 09:20 PM
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Because the alt from a vehicle if running can damage the VR and stator because of its ot put. Your supposed to jump from a non running vehicle. Same reason not to charge your battery from and automotive charger. First confirm good bat then fuses and relays then courodded pins in the fuse box. After that might have to check the stator and VR. Hope this helps. I'm no cycle expert here but some are. Do some dignostics and we can go from there.
 
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