07 Softail Deuce
I am at a loss here guys. I have an 07 Deuce and it keeps going dead. By that I mean the battery. Its strange. I checked output voltage off and running and all is normal. It will run for 50 miles, shut it off and wont restart then can run it for a few blocks shut it down and then it wont start. Just cranks over real slow like battery is dead. I have tried everything I can think of. So far this year its had 2 new batterys. One thing I noticed is that when I connected the battery today it sparked a bit. That tells me there is something on and drawing juice. Although I cant find out where. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
unhook neg battery cable, and hook a test light in between battery - and the - battery cable... it will light up the test lite, then pull 1 fuse at a time whichever fuse you pull that shuts the light off that is the system that is drawing juice and killing you battery.
That is if your regulator/stator is good and not your problem.
That is if your regulator/stator is good and not your problem.
unhook neg battery cable, and hook a test light in between battery - and the - battery cable... it will light up the test lite, then pull 1 fuse at a time whichever fuse you pull that shuts the light off that is the system that is drawing juice and killing you battery.
That is if your regulator/stator is good and not your problem.
That is if your regulator/stator is good and not your problem.
I checked the voltage with it running and it was 14.2 volts. I thought that with the key off that the voltage regulator and stater had no power to them. With that in mind how do I check the stater and regulator to insure I am replacing the right thing..
I have tested the system and i found a .5 amp draw but it only stays on for maybe a minute then goes to zero. However, everytime i connect the battery cable the speedo resets. The needle moves and the mileage will display but should that have power with the key off?
I have tested the system and i found a .5 amp draw but it only stays on for maybe a minute then goes to zero. However, everytime i connect the battery cable the speedo resets. The needle moves and the mileage will display but should that have power with the key off?
Last edited by ewoods8393; Dec 1, 2013 at 03:09 PM.
what your describing sounds normal if its dropping to zero after a minute or so. the modules are just going to "sleep". the reason you see a small arc/spark when connecting th battery is the modules are looking for power for their memory.
have you checked the starter for excessive draw on start up. a bad starter will cause a slow crank and eat batterys because they are pulling all the amps out and the battery doesn't recharge enough in a short time from the excessive amp pull down.
have you checked the starter for excessive draw on start up. a bad starter will cause a slow crank and eat batterys because they are pulling all the amps out and the battery doesn't recharge enough in a short time from the excessive amp pull down.
I am unsure how to test the stator. The bike will start normally and then all of a sudden its dead. Make no since to me at all. I can run it for an hour shut it of and try to start it and its dead. The last time I rode it at 55 plus for over an hour and then it wouldnt start and had to be jumped.
Trending Topics
batt voltage last time was 10. The battery that was in it was not even 6 months old and tested as junk because it had no amperage output. And the lights all look to be fine. Odly too i noticed not long ago that even at idle you can put a turn signal on and nothing dims at all. Maybe im crazy but that too told me that the stator was charging.
what kind of batterys are you putting in ? it seems with 14.2 v running that the charging syst is working and a 0 amp draw after a few minutes is normal.
Juiced deuce advice on using a test light is good to a certain point. with todays electronics causing a constant draw down in the miliamp range, you could still have a test light light extremely dim and be within normal acceptable draw. how we used to use a test light with onboard computers was to hook the test light in series on either cable and then touch the cable to the battery cable for approx 30seconds to a minute and then pull the cable away from the terminal all while the test light is connected. the test light should stay out for a few seconds or so then come on dim to bright. this is the modules internal memorys capacitors depleting their charge and "looking" for more voltage to power up. BUT- this isn't always 100% true anymore because some modules have no internal capacitor for power and just use a constant draw on the system. this draw is minimal though.. miliamps.. .030 MA or less.
Juiced deuce advice on using a test light is good to a certain point. with todays electronics causing a constant draw down in the miliamp range, you could still have a test light light extremely dim and be within normal acceptable draw. how we used to use a test light with onboard computers was to hook the test light in series on either cable and then touch the cable to the battery cable for approx 30seconds to a minute and then pull the cable away from the terminal all while the test light is connected. the test light should stay out for a few seconds or so then come on dim to bright. this is the modules internal memorys capacitors depleting their charge and "looking" for more voltage to power up. BUT- this isn't always 100% true anymore because some modules have no internal capacitor for power and just use a constant draw on the system. this draw is minimal though.. miliamps.. .030 MA or less.


