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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 07:04 PM
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Default 07 Softail Deuce

I am at a loss here guys. I have an 07 Deuce and it keeps going dead. By that I mean the battery. Its strange. I checked output voltage off and running and all is normal. It will run for 50 miles, shut it off and wont restart then can run it for a few blocks shut it down and then it wont start. Just cranks over real slow like battery is dead. I have tried everything I can think of. So far this year its had 2 new batterys. One thing I noticed is that when I connected the battery today it sparked a bit. That tells me there is something on and drawing juice. Although I cant find out where. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 07:30 PM
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I'm thinking a bad stator, are you sure about those voltage readings?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2013 | 09:47 PM
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unhook neg battery cable, and hook a test light in between battery - and the - battery cable... it will light up the test lite, then pull 1 fuse at a time whichever fuse you pull that shuts the light off that is the system that is drawing juice and killing you battery.

That is if your regulator/stator is good and not your problem.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Juiced_deuce
unhook neg battery cable, and hook a test light in between battery - and the - battery cable... it will light up the test lite, then pull 1 fuse at a time whichever fuse you pull that shuts the light off that is the system that is drawing juice and killing you battery.

That is if your regulator/stator is good and not your problem.
Good tip, I learned something!
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 02:05 PM
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I checked the voltage with it running and it was 14.2 volts. I thought that with the key off that the voltage regulator and stater had no power to them. With that in mind how do I check the stater and regulator to insure I am replacing the right thing..

I have tested the system and i found a .5 amp draw but it only stays on for maybe a minute then goes to zero. However, everytime i connect the battery cable the speedo resets. The needle moves and the mileage will display but should that have power with the key off?
 

Last edited by ewoods8393; Dec 1, 2013 at 03:09 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 03:32 PM
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what your describing sounds normal if its dropping to zero after a minute or so. the modules are just going to "sleep". the reason you see a small arc/spark when connecting th battery is the modules are looking for power for their memory.

have you checked the starter for excessive draw on start up. a bad starter will cause a slow crank and eat batterys because they are pulling all the amps out and the battery doesn't recharge enough in a short time from the excessive amp pull down.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 03:45 PM
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I am unsure how to test the stator. The bike will start normally and then all of a sudden its dead. Make no since to me at all. I can run it for an hour shut it of and try to start it and its dead. The last time I rode it at 55 plus for over an hour and then it wouldnt start and had to be jumped.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 04:08 PM
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will the all the other lights come on and be at normal brightness ? what is the batt voltage when it won't crank over ?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 04:14 PM
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batt voltage last time was 10. The battery that was in it was not even 6 months old and tested as junk because it had no amperage output. And the lights all look to be fine. Odly too i noticed not long ago that even at idle you can put a turn signal on and nothing dims at all. Maybe im crazy but that too told me that the stator was charging.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 04:27 PM
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what kind of batterys are you putting in ? it seems with 14.2 v running that the charging syst is working and a 0 amp draw after a few minutes is normal.


Juiced deuce advice on using a test light is good to a certain point. with todays electronics causing a constant draw down in the miliamp range, you could still have a test light light extremely dim and be within normal acceptable draw. how we used to use a test light with onboard computers was to hook the test light in series on either cable and then touch the cable to the battery cable for approx 30seconds to a minute and then pull the cable away from the terminal all while the test light is connected. the test light should stay out for a few seconds or so then come on dim to bright. this is the modules internal memorys capacitors depleting their charge and "looking" for more voltage to power up. BUT- this isn't always 100% true anymore because some modules have no internal capacitor for power and just use a constant draw on the system. this draw is minimal though.. miliamps.. .030 MA or less.
 
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