Bad Noises...
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Bad Noises...
Well, well, well...I've gotten my carburetor problems figured out. Now I've got a helluva rattly/ticky noise coming from the motor on my 79 iron that does not sound good at all. In fact, it's so bad that I'm kinda afraid to run it. Judging by previous experience, I'm GUESSING that a lifter is sticking. A guy at work said that he thought that it was the cams. He said that the groves that they ride in in the case get "wallered" out and I should put a bushing kit in it. I don't really want to just throw parts at it, so I'm looking for advice. I'm not afraid to work on it, I just want to have some sort of idea going in.
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From: Houston Texas
RE: Bad Noises...
The guy at work who suggested you put a "bushing kit" in it.......I hope he did not mean bushings in the timing cover and case, but those are the only bushings I am aware of.
If that was what he was referring to, then he needs to learn a bit more about a Sportster engine before he starts giving his opinion so freely.
The bushings are a press fit into the case(s). After that you will have to line ream the bushings using a reamer of fixed size. This requires you to have the entire engine apart and the cases split so you can ream. Ignore the comment he made.
You need to determine where the noise is coming from first. If you do not have an automotive stethescope then just grab the handle of a large screwdriver and cup it to your ear while the engine is running. Move the metal blade around to different parts of the engine and see if you can better locate the source of your noise..........pg
If that was what he was referring to, then he needs to learn a bit more about a Sportster engine before he starts giving his opinion so freely.
The bushings are a press fit into the case(s). After that you will have to line ream the bushings using a reamer of fixed size. This requires you to have the entire engine apart and the cases split so you can ream. Ignore the comment he made.
You need to determine where the noise is coming from first. If you do not have an automotive stethescope then just grab the handle of a large screwdriver and cup it to your ear while the engine is running. Move the metal blade around to different parts of the engine and see if you can better locate the source of your noise..........pg
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From: Houston Texas
RE: Bad Noises...
The bushings do wear, but my point was that it is not an easy (and inexpensive) fix. I have seen the lobes on the cams wear and yet the bushings are still good.
So, don't think you have worn bushings yet. There are a lot of other things that can be making the noise you hear.
Have you adjusted the pushrods yet? I would do that first. You have solid lifters in the engine. The lifters have a roller (needle) bearing on the end that rides on the cam lobe. These are usually very long lived unless there was an issue with lack of lubrication at some time............pg
So, don't think you have worn bushings yet. There are a lot of other things that can be making the noise you hear.
Have you adjusted the pushrods yet? I would do that first. You have solid lifters in the engine. The lifters have a roller (needle) bearing on the end that rides on the cam lobe. These are usually very long lived unless there was an issue with lack of lubrication at some time............pg
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RE: Bad Noises...
Yes, I just had the bike at a very good mechanic. While he had it, I decided to change the carburetor so he never ran it to check all the things you have to have ot running to check. He did, however, adjust the valves since that is to be done while the motor is cold. Wouldn't you think, though, that one would be able to detect a flopping pushrod at this point? I've not takin the pushrod covers off to see, but if the lifter is stuck, the pushrod would be loose, right? Unless the lifter is stuck at the top, in which case the valve wouldn't open anyway and cause it to not run... but it does... loudly. Unfortunately, said good mechanic is also a farmer and can't get me in for 4 more weeks. Bye bye riding season...
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From: Houston Texas
RE: Bad Noises...
The pushrod adjustment is indeed done when the engine is stone cold. I won't go into the details of making that adjustment here, but the end result is that the pushrod can just be rotated 360 degrees using a single finger. There is no noticable gap to measure, like say....eight thousandths clearance with a feeler gage.
This is a very important setting because if things are just a little tight, then the valves are held off their seats and the result can be burned valves. That is why I asked you if it had been done.
'but if the lifter is stuck, the pushrod would be loose, right? Unless the lifter is stuck at the top, in which case the valve wouldn't open anyway and cause it to not run.'
Let me ask you a question: How familar are you with a Sportster engine?
I have attached some info for you to review.
The lifters run in a guide piece and ride on the cam lobes. The lifter is a solid piece of metal and goes up and down as it follows the cam lobe.
Lifters in an ironhead cannot stick or collapse. Pushrods are solid pieces of rod. They cannot collapse.
The only thing that can happen here is that the pushrods can get set incorrectly. If the setting is too loose, the engine makes a little more noise. If they are set too tight, then you usually will have a burned valve before you go very far.
An ironhead engine is about as quiet as a threshing machine running at full throttle. I am talking about the thresher at full throttle, not the ironhead. This is a normal ironhead.
If you have ever ridden a Honda or some other Brand X machine, and then climb aboard an ironhead, you would think the bike is going to come apart before you can quickly dismount from the sound of it. This is a normal ironhead.
So, unless you have some sudden new noise appear that was never there before, I would not be concerned myself. I would determine where that noise is coming from and discover what is making it if it bothers you. But, a Honda it ain't, and thank God for that...........pg
[IMG]local://upfiles/8331/74657BFE0DC64E87A27066DB1B978E76.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/8331/83D687E5076843379B287EAFBB024F56.jpg[/IMG]
This is a very important setting because if things are just a little tight, then the valves are held off their seats and the result can be burned valves. That is why I asked you if it had been done.
'but if the lifter is stuck, the pushrod would be loose, right? Unless the lifter is stuck at the top, in which case the valve wouldn't open anyway and cause it to not run.'
Let me ask you a question: How familar are you with a Sportster engine?
I have attached some info for you to review.
The lifters run in a guide piece and ride on the cam lobes. The lifter is a solid piece of metal and goes up and down as it follows the cam lobe.
Lifters in an ironhead cannot stick or collapse. Pushrods are solid pieces of rod. They cannot collapse.
The only thing that can happen here is that the pushrods can get set incorrectly. If the setting is too loose, the engine makes a little more noise. If they are set too tight, then you usually will have a burned valve before you go very far.
An ironhead engine is about as quiet as a threshing machine running at full throttle. I am talking about the thresher at full throttle, not the ironhead. This is a normal ironhead.
If you have ever ridden a Honda or some other Brand X machine, and then climb aboard an ironhead, you would think the bike is going to come apart before you can quickly dismount from the sound of it. This is a normal ironhead.
So, unless you have some sudden new noise appear that was never there before, I would not be concerned myself. I would determine where that noise is coming from and discover what is making it if it bothers you. But, a Honda it ain't, and thank God for that...........pg
[IMG]local://upfiles/8331/74657BFE0DC64E87A27066DB1B978E76.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/8331/83D687E5076843379B287EAFBB024F56.jpg[/IMG]
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: 500 miles south from Artic Circle
RE: Bad Noises...
ORIGINAL: piniongear
An ironhead engine is about as quiet as a threshing machine running at full throttle. I am talking about the thresher at full throttle, not the ironhead. This is a normal ironhead.
If you have ever ridden a Honda or some other Brand X machine, and then climb aboard an ironhead, you would think the bike is going to come apart before you can quickly dismount from the sound of it. This is a normal ironhead.
An ironhead engine is about as quiet as a threshing machine running at full throttle. I am talking about the thresher at full throttle, not the ironhead. This is a normal ironhead.
If you have ever ridden a Honda or some other Brand X machine, and then climb aboard an ironhead, you would think the bike is going to come apart before you can quickly dismount from the sound of it. This is a normal ironhead.
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RE: Bad Noises...
read the post "difference" I bumped it up but the Ironhead is still noisier...... got into a discussion with my bud he was talking about how quiet his new sportster 1200 was I asked him but how do ya know its a Harley lol 4 cams and solid lifters canmakequite a lot of racket good Luck Dusty
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RE: Bad Noises...
How familar are you with a Sportster engine?
Not Very, however, I am mechanically inclined. What I guess I don't understand is how you can say that the lifter cannot stick.Is it nota moving part? To my knowlege, it moves up and down inside the tappet. It can become stuck just like in a car.
An ironhead engine is about as quiet as a threshing machine running at full throttle. I am talking about the thresher at full throttle, not the ironhead. This is a normal ironhead.
If you have ever ridden a Honda or some other Brand X machine, and then climb aboard an ironhead, you would think the bike is going to come apart before you can quickly dismount from the sound of it.
Well, this is exactly what I did. I got off my CBR (I know i'm going to catch hell for this), and got on this piece of farm equipment. Maybe it's just wishful thinking, but I'd like to do something to quiet this thing down.