I'm not sure what years came with a kick and/or electric start. When I bought my '77, the previous owner told me it came from the factory with electric start only, but they bolted on a kicker kit from another bike (a kit from a Big Twin?!)

Well it has never worked right. I find the compression stroke, but the kicker shaft moves down to the halfway down point (9 o clock on a clock) before it stops and actually starts to turn the motor. Is this something I can check on and adjust easily, or is the 'kit' thing going to be a problem?

Also, what's the 'routine' for starting an old Ironhead easily with the kick?

 

The 1977 would not have had a kick starter.
The kick start that someone put on DID NOT come from a big twin. That bike has a totally different transmission that is a separate piece, where the Sportster is a unit construction design.
The kick start either came from an older Sportster or was an aftermarket kit made by Tedd Cycle (VTwin).
The VTwin kit is a pretty junkie piece of crap, but they can be made to work.
From your description it sounds like your kickstarter has all the features of an original K/S.
The way to start a Sportie is push the crank down against compression. Yep, the lever is at about 9 o'clock.
Lift your foot/leg up allowing the kick start lever spring to raise the lever fully up.
Again press down until the lever meets resistance. The lever is now at about 10 o'clock and this is as good as it is going to get.
Kick it through with all the ummph you can put on it. If your bike is really tuned well it should start with a single kick, 2 kicks at the most. If it will not start that easy (engine warmed up of course) then you need to do some work on it..........pg

 

Keep the kicker leg somewhat cocked when kicking or you will feel the pain (it's called sportster leg ) 140psig can do this to ya

 

Yikes, well I guess it works fine then! I'm only getting a quarter rotation out of each kick, and I'm a lanky guy at 150 lbs....I gotta start practicing, I guess! The bike starts easily and is tuned very well. Shouldn't be a problem, though I've still gotta fix the return spring on the kicker shaft.

Yeah sqdealgeorge, one of the first few times I tried kicking it, i popped my knee and almost got sent flying over the handlebars!

 

I have been kicking it for years. I don't have sportster knee, but I did have a MC accident in '78 and my knees are in poor shape. I am lean, 160 and getting old.

But I am still hanging in there. It is my belief you just need to kick it through, not try to spin the motor. It's not going to happen anyway. This still takes all the ummph I can muster. By the time I get to 6 my knee is bent (if it is ever straight) and my weight is being transferred to my left leg. This way if there is any kick back my leg gives way and not my knee. If it is going to start it will do it by 7 o'clock. At least thats the way it happens in my mind.

If your bike was higher of the ground you could add an inch to your kicker arm, but that's not an option for neither of us.

Seeing how talk is cheap....http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9N-Eof6yAY

I would say that is exactly what Piniongear said.
The way to start a Sportie is push the crank down against compression. Yep, the lever is at about 9 o'clock.
Lift your foot/leg up allowing the kick start lever spring to raise the lever fully up.
Again press down until the lever meets resistance. The lever is now at about 10 o'clock and this is as good as it is going to get.
Kick it through with all the ummph you can put on it. If your bike is really tuned well it should start with a single kick, 2 kicks at the most.

 

*****