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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 08:23 PM
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Default checking timing

well my haynes manuel doesnt show the markings that are on my crank i have an F and a straight line then i have a R and a straight line then i have F:T can anyone shed some light on this i think the f and two dots and t is top dead center front cylinder im assuming the f and r should be when the thing fires BUTT not for shure
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 08:38 PM
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There is only one way IMO to determine what is the front cylinder TDC mark. That is to position the front cyl at TDC and look in the timing hole.

In my experience it is foolish to rely on what is in any book or on anyone else's flywheel - unless you are absolutely certain that yours [and theirs too] has never been changed.

Plugs out, rear wheel off the ground, 4th gear, rotate the rear wheel and watch in the plug hole for the piston to come up to the top. Then look at the mark in the timing hole. A bit more tedious than it sounds.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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do these bikes fire at tdc or before im used to jap bikes and they fire abit before tdc
 
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by sugarplum247
do these bikes fire at tdc or before im used to jap bikes and they fire abit before tdc
Stock timing is 40` before TDC. There should be another timing mark there which is referred to as the front cylinder advance timing mark [ATM]. Use this mark when setting timing with a standard timing light. Use the TDC mark when using a dial back timing light.

I do not recall what year is your bike. My manual covers 1979 to 1985 and there are two versions of timing marks there. For example, for 1980 there is a bar and a drilled hole. For some the drilled hole is TDC and the bar is ATM; for others it is exactly the opposite.

Remind us what year is your bike. If someone has a manual you could use that as a guide as to what to look for. It is really helpful to have both a factory manual and a parts book for your model. These are available thru HD dealers, eBay, J&P Cycles, etc.
 

Last edited by IronMick; Apr 15, 2009 at 10:30 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 06:59 PM
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ok got top dead center then checked my points they were not open i adjusted the backing plate to where they opened got good spark and fuel still wont start pops through carb on the cam lobs for the points the short skinny lob is for the front cylider correct
 
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Old Apr 17, 2009 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sugarplum247
ok got top dead center then checked my points they were not open i adjusted the backing plate to where they opened
From your posted pics, I'll assume you have a '76. The markings you describe aren't familiar to me, but I'm better with the older bikes. From your description, I would agree with your timing:mark assignments. Stroker wheels perhaps? At TDC, you're way off. For a '76, the timing should be set at 40° BTDC (unless it's a stroker). Get the real-deal FSM. Read it. Twice. It contains more details than the Haynes has. The Haynes and Clymer manuals, however, are very absorbent and can be used to catch oil drips and mop up beer spills. Get the HD parts book as well. Both are invaluable.

Here's how HD describes the process.



 
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 10:47 AM
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thanks for the info ga i did some investigating online about my timing marks i found that a S&S stroker crank has the same timing marks as mine does they still say to set firing 40 degrees befor tdc
 
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 02:23 PM
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Congratulations on the stroker find. 40° it is then. - I was under the impression that strokers were supposed to be timed in the 30something° BTDC range, but have no practical experience. S+S probably has documentation for your wheels on-line. Can you see any identifying marks to give a clue as to the stroke?
 
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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looks like serial # only other than timing marks got her started earlier today ran good now it doesnt want to start again this thing is driving me crazy
 
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Old Apr 18, 2009 | 07:32 PM
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Got Fuel? Too much? Not enough? And don't forget spark at the right time. Without anything else to go on, I'll make a WAG and say it's fuel related. Maybe related to a float adjustment/sticking float or maybe crap in the gas from the tank, now in the carb. Again, only a WAG.
 
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