My first Harley
dealer and they told me that the oil pump has a check valve that almost never works. He told me that I need to ride it untill it dumps all the excess oil out of the crankcase and then recheck the oil level in the tank. He told me that it is a common problem with the older bikes. This is my first Harley, and I dont want to Screw it up. It has been sitting for a couple years. I had to rewire the handlebars and replace the battery and starter solenoid. I modified the forward controles and a few other things, I am ready to ride it but I dont want to burn it up from lack of oil. I rode it around the block a few times and it left a trail of oil, I guess it was marking its territory. What do you guys think?
IT IS NOT A DRAIN PLUG! NEVER REMOVE THIS PLUG EITHER, OR YOU MAY RUIN YOUR ENGINE!!!
Jeeze..... I hope I made that clear enough for you.
The oil pump has a ball check and a spring. Over time if the bike is not cranked or run, oil will leak past the check ball and accumulate in the bottom end.
The way to remove this oil (and this is the only way) is to fire up the bike and let it puke the excess oil out of the breather tube that comes from the timing cover under the generator.
Watch the oil level in the tank. There will only be a small amount of oil dumped through the tube. Refill the oil tank to the proper level.
You may also want to check the oil level in the primary case/transmission. If the bike has sat for a long time, then I recommend draining the primary and the transmission and refilling with new oil.
The primary drain is a fair sized plug in the underside of the primary cover, and the trans drain plug is a 5/8 inch hex located at the far rear of the transmission case.

Also here is a diagram of the oil pump parts showing the ball check and spring. This is for a 1974, but yours is similar. Change it by removing the sender unit, nipple, spring, and ball. (items 1 thru 4) Reinstall a new ball and a new spring.
This is done without removing the pump. Just remove the 4 parts from the front of the pump........... pg
EDIT NOTE: READ THE TEXT ON THE PAGE. I recommend you replace the ball and spring with a new one. Do not try to stretch the spring. Use a new one.
dealer and they told me that the oil pump has a check valve that almost never works. He told me that I need to ride it untill it dumps all the excess oil out of the crankcase and then recheck the oil level in the tank. He told me that it is a common problem with the older bikes. This is my first Harley, and I dont want to Screw it up. It has been sitting for a couple years. I had to rewire the handlebars and replace the battery and starter solenoid. I modified the forward controles and a few other things, I am ready to ride it but I dont want to burn it up from lack of oil. I rode it around the block a few times and it left a trail of oil, I guess it was marking its territory. What do you guys think?Last edited by piniongear; Aug 22, 2009 at 03:34 PM. Reason: added edit note.
On a 1977 machine, there may be a vent line coming out of the top of the transmission. This fitting will be under the starter.
But...... under the starter you are also going to have the return oil line from the engine to the oil tank. You need to find out which line is the cause of the leak.
If your return oil line has a cut in it, then that needs replacing asap. If the oil is coming out of a hyper active transmission vent line then you will have to determine the cause of that.
As regular members here on the forum know, I try not to comment much on bikes newer than 1974. I usually wind up giving incorrect advice, as I am more in tune with older Sportsters.
How about it Sepixlh? Care to help out a bit here?
pg
I expect that the leak is from the oil return line as PG has mentioned; or from the seal between the starter motor and the case; or between the solenoid and the case; or [possibly but less likely] from the oil tank vent line that runs to the back of the gearcase cover.
There is not much space for the lines under the solenoid and the starter. It is too easy to have either installed not flush to the case; or worse, to strip a bolt while installing. Work in this area very carefully.
Last edited by IronMick; Aug 23, 2009 at 01:07 PM.

The primary takes about 1.5 pints [24 oz], or until it starts to drip out of this hole with the bike level.. After it finishes dripping the correct amount is in there.
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Pour oil in the round filler hole in the primary cover and the oil runs through the trans trap door inside to the transmission.......pg
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I HAD A SIMILAR SITUATION ONCE....
SEEMS AS THE OIL LINES ARE RAN VERY CLOSE TO THE DRIVE CHAIN....
WHILE TRAVELING @ 80mph DOWN THE FREEWAY, I LOOKED IN THE MIRROR AND SAW A CLOUD OF SMOKE FOLLOWING ME....
PULLED OVER AND SHUT IT DOWN...
OIL EVERYWHERE.....
PUSHED DOWN THE ON RAMP, AND THEN ABOUT A MILE TO A PARTS STORE,(NOT FUN) REMOVED THE STARTER, REAR EXHAUST PIPE, AND FOUND THE OIL RETURN LINE WAS CHEWED UP....
BOUGHT SOME HOSE, OIL, AND REPLACED THE LINE MAKING SURE TO ZIP TIE THE LINE BACK AWAY FROM THE MOVING PARTS....
GOOD THING WAS, EVERYTHING HAD A FRESH COAT OF OIL....LOL
SO THE MORAL OF THE STORY IS: CHECK ALL LINES, THEN RE-CHECK THEM AGAIN....
B



