mystery with rollers
It takes 23, not 22 rollers. So if the thrust washer was in place, the roller must have dropped out the last time the tranny was put back together and installed. Never been apart, you say? I think it has. I always put a good wipe of grease on all 23 rollers before I run the shaft thru them. It only takes a slight hesitation and pull back on the shaft to dislodge a roller. Use some grease when you do the reinstall. It holds the rollers in place................piniongear
The first thing you will see will be a mainshaft roller bearing retaining ring. Behind that is a mainbrg washer. Behind that are the mainroller bearings. 23 in all. If the retaining ring can be removed and the washer will come out that side, you will (may) be able to handle the replacement from the sprocket side. I say MAY, only because with the shaft in place in the hole and the tight clearance you will be dealing with, it may well be a difficult job to get the roller to slide in. I think you will find that the trans. case prevents you from removing the bearings however.
Here is what concerns me a bit about the whole business: Since the roller was dropped by the guy who repaired the tranny before, I have to suspect his ability to give you the job you paid for. If it were me, I would take the transmission out and install all 23 rollers from the clutch side. Then I would carefully check the end play on both the mainshaft and the countershaft. This will require a dial indicator and a bent spoke to jam in the countershaft so that you can shift the shaft back and forth. The end play (on both shafts) needs to be .003 to .009.
If not within this tolerance, pull the door off and replace the VARIABLE THICKNESS washers on the shafts. We have referred to these as thrust washers earlier. They come in thickness of .050, .055, .060, .070 & .075 for both shafts. In addition, there are thinner washers in .020, .030 & .040 thickness for the countershaft.
If you are going to do all this and need some better instruction, send me an email at wb_perry@yahoo.com and I will scan my factory manual covering this and send you a PDF of it.
Checking the end play would make sure things are right. If you are lucky (again) things will be within tolerance and no shims will be required. The fact that second gear was changed is even more reason to check the end play, but again, it has run well for such a long time that you are probably in very good shape. Good luck with it..............piniongear
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