Cams question
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 426
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Cams question
I searched before I wrote this, honest.
I've got another xlh motor I'm messing with. I bought a set of 20 over pistons, jugs, and flywheels of a friend who needed some cash. it's like a half assed 74" stroker kit. I know that PG feels that stroker kits are strictly verboten, but it's a spare engine so I figure it can't do too much harm.
I was wondering three things:
Will the stock cams and connecting rods be ok? My buddy is now off to the 'ghan so all I know is the flywheels are balanced for stock connecting rods.
If the stock cams aren't alright, what would be a good aftermarket to go with? My mechanic suggested Andrews cams, but I'm not sure which ones based on the description I think PB+ would be fine, e thinks I shouldstep up to Y.
Also if the stock rods are ok, will I have to modify the case in anyway?
Feel free to correct/add to/ modify this post.
Oh and the jugs aren't old stock bored out, they are brand new.
I've got another xlh motor I'm messing with. I bought a set of 20 over pistons, jugs, and flywheels of a friend who needed some cash. it's like a half assed 74" stroker kit. I know that PG feels that stroker kits are strictly verboten, but it's a spare engine so I figure it can't do too much harm.
I was wondering three things:
Will the stock cams and connecting rods be ok? My buddy is now off to the 'ghan so all I know is the flywheels are balanced for stock connecting rods.
If the stock cams aren't alright, what would be a good aftermarket to go with? My mechanic suggested Andrews cams, but I'm not sure which ones based on the description I think PB+ would be fine, e thinks I shouldstep up to Y.
Also if the stock rods are ok, will I have to modify the case in anyway?
Feel free to correct/add to/ modify this post.
Oh and the jugs aren't old stock bored out, they are brand new.
Pistons come in oversize increments of .010. Standard, 010, 020, ..., 070. 070 is highest for engines after about 1972. The reason for upsizing is when the cylinders are worn or dammaged. There is virtually no power increase with oversize cylinders/pistons.
The downside is that with each upsize you have one less rebuild available. After 070 you have to get new cylinders. A typical IronHead engine will need a rebuild after about each 35000 miles. If there is serious damage you may have to go up two sizes.
The downside is that with each upsize you have one less rebuild available. After 070 you have to get new cylinders. A typical IronHead engine will need a rebuild after about each 35000 miles. If there is serious damage you may have to go up two sizes.
Standard [STD] pistons are either for 900 or 1000 cc engines depending on whether it is an early or late model. Changed around 1970 or so.
To decide what pistons to get you must measure the cylinders. The technique and tools needed are in the FM. Or take them to an automotive machine shop to be measured.
The clearance spec for the pistons/cylinders is ".003 to .004 inches loose". They must be matched precisely to this.
To decide what pistons to get you must measure the cylinders. The technique and tools needed are in the FM. Or take them to an automotive machine shop to be measured.
The clearance spec for the pistons/cylinders is ".003 to .004 inches loose". They must be matched precisely to this.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 118
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From: Athens, GA
Building a stroker is an expensive, machine shop intensive operation, to do it right. You need to research the requirements and see if your pockets and mindset are ready for the project, before you start. You don't want to end up with a basket. JMHO
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2009
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I've talked to a couple people, and while everyone seems to agree that building a stroker is expensive, no one can really tell me why.
I'm not disagreeing, especially with people who know more than I do but:
As long as these pistons fit the jugs, and the case doesn't have to be relieved for the flywheels, aren't I just putting the pieces back together? I'm sure one of you nice folks will fill me in, because on paper it's looking way too easy.
I'm not disagreeing, especially with people who know more than I do but:
As long as these pistons fit the jugs, and the case doesn't have to be relieved for the flywheels, aren't I just putting the pieces back together? I'm sure one of you nice folks will fill me in, because on paper it's looking way too easy.
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 121
Likes: 1
I built several 77 inch Sportster motors around 1971-72, you have to have pistons with the wrist pin hole higher in the piston or you have to use "compression plates" between the cylinders and cases to raise the cylinders up ( not a good idea, if you do this you have to use a longer intake manifold and your top motor mount has to be modified). The ones that I built had a 4 5/8 inch stroke, you also have to remove some of the internal webbing in the cases to allow for connecting rod clearance. I used "Doc Dytch" big bore cylinders that require that the cases and heads be bored also. Not worth the trouble today when you can buy a "crotch rocket " that will fly". from about 1968- 1974, nothing on the street was faster than a sportster like this, a stock one "could't tell which way it went!".
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 179
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From: Texas
Reason I asked,because when buying new jugs,Ive always gone stock bore.. same reason Mick talked about.The "stroke" on strokers means a longer reach as far as piston travel to TDC..thats why the shorter pistons..or as Gun says, higher wrist pin..as far as prices,check out the S @ S website..the parts are high.But,if Ya already have the flywheels,rods and pistons,there Ya go! Oh..look on the top of your new pistons,they should be marked .20 .If not,most likely standard size