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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 01:13 PM
  #21  
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Where would y'all suggest i buy these rods, S&S?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 01:14 PM
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nm double post.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by fdny37
The flywheels are balanced separate from the rods. The rods are then matched to be equal in weight as with the pistons. As long as the flywheels have been balanced you can use any rods (as long as they have been balanced).
uh, what the hell u talking about??? When you balance the flywheels, you have to weigh the rods to figure out how heavy your bobweight needs to be. The rods themselves don't get balanced in any way, shape, or form.

Evil, If I were you, i'd stick with the stock size rods, unless you want to rebalance your wheels. If you want to do that, here is a set of instructions from another forum that I frequent, they are good instructions. They were written for a shovelhead, but it should pretty much be the same, just the balance factor may differ from the 60% that he uses.

"I do static balancing and use the S&S fixtures and almost always a 60% factor. To accomplish this:
1.
Weigh small end of rod while holding the centerline of the rod holes level
2. do the same for the big end
3. Weigh the total rod.
4. add the front/rear weight find the difference from the total weight.
5. If the ends are heavier than the total weight by just a small amount, divide that difference by 3, and add 1/3 to the small end, and 2/3 thirds to the big end weight. You will likely be dealing it tenths of a gram.
6. Weigh the pistons, wristpin, keepers, locks, and rings and that will be the reciprocating weight.
7. The rotating weight will be the big end of the rod, crankpin, nuts, locks screws, bearings, and cages.
8. Add the recipricating weight to 60% of the rotating weight and that is your bob weight.
9 for static balancing you divide that in half and make up a weight that is bolted in the crankpin hole of one flywheel at a time. You put a shaft through the shaft hole of the flywheels that has tapers and nut to hold it in the flywheel. You put this flywheel on a leveled parallel, and when it stops moving you mark the bottom of the face where you drill to lighten the flywheel.
10. Keep putting the assembly back on the parallel until it will sit still (doesn't roll) when placed with any part up. Do the other flywheel and you are balanced.
11. I'm kinda in a hurry now and there is more to it, but that is the basic. I have an engine to balance id a week or so if you would like photos.....jb "
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 03:05 PM
  #24  
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Yep..S @ S rods. Have You looked up the wheel part numbers yet? hate to see You not able to use them!
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 03:23 PM
  #25  
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They are at my friends garage, thats where we were planning to do the rebuild. Another friend of HIS stopped by and suggested that this wasn't in fact a stroker kit, but a 74 inch big bore hot setup, and I don't have any idea what that means. I will now go try to find out the difference between a big bore kit and a stroker kit.

Also I assume I have to machine the heads for the new jugs?

Thanks for the flywheel balancing info, I'll save that for later, I'm still in the parts acquisition stage, and MAN those heavy duty rods are expensive.

I'll get numbers and hopefully pictures this weekend.
 

Last edited by EvilWayz; Feb 5, 2010 at 03:39 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 03:33 PM
  #26  
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Phonecall to friend reveals the following:

Flywheels aren't S&S. Markings on the side is "exl 4 5/8 1400"

center reads truett osborne wichita kansas.

Pistons are s&s 92-3702f forged piston assembly for use with 4 5/8 stroke in 1972 -1985 sportsters.

Jugs have a /, triangle and an F marking, I assume that the company's initials are AF
 

Last edited by EvilWayz; Feb 5, 2010 at 03:45 PM.
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 04:03 PM
  #27  
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well, there's some good news for you. the hot setup kit is not just a stroker, but a big bore kit also. T&O makes some pretty good stuff, and if I understand correctly, their wheels are a bit heavier than s&s, which will give you more torque. Either way, sounds like you have a pretty good setup there, as long as it fits your engine
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 04:37 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by fdny37
The flywheels are balanced separate from the rods. The rods are then matched to be equal in weight as with the pistons. As long as the flywheels have been balanced you can use any rods (as long as they have been balanced).
have you ever balanced a set of flywheels??? cause somebody dun told you wrong.all the parts of the lower end are weighed and the f/wheels are balance to that wieght.youve got recipricating wieght(top half of rods,pistons,pins,rings & clips)and rotating wieght(bottom half of rods,c.pin,cages,bearings,nuts and retainers if used)then you multiply the repricating weight by 60%,add rotating wieght & divide it by 2 and balance each wheel to that wieght.rod wieght is an integerl part of balancing
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 04:45 PM
  #29  
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So, what are the chances these jugs just bolt right up to the heads?

Incidentally, i know the differences betwen bore vs stroking, I do not know what a hot setup is, or why this one didn't come with conecting rods, as i looked on the web for some examples.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 04:51 PM
  #30  
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oops,dslat,didnt see your post.but the XL wheels are also a 60% factor
 
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