Generator Noise?
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 89
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From: Western PA
SHEP! you might be my main man here! lol i gotta stock 1000cc sporty (as stated) and i wanna do this setup. i did read the link that mick posted, and already found some hints, tips and tricks. i also thought about using the cheapo mount you talked about. i already have the carb mounts on the motor (due to thats how my bendix is supported) and figured i'd incorporate the stock a/C housing onto the CV carb. OR have one made at work for free (or close to free...case of beer will prolly substitute excellent for money..haha) Do you ahve any pictures you could post? so i can get an idea of what i'm lookin at?
did you have to get a different "choke" cable? (enrichening cable..yes i know..haha) i read that on the iron conversions, that would be an item to look into.
I'm gonna look into the carb flange and see what i can find. any pointers or part numbers N such would be a big plus! thanks guys!
ps..did i mention i love this site?! hahaha
did you have to get a different "choke" cable? (enrichening cable..yes i know..haha) i read that on the iron conversions, that would be an item to look into.
I'm gonna look into the carb flange and see what i can find. any pointers or part numbers N such would be a big plus! thanks guys!
ps..did i mention i love this site?! hahaha
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 89
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From: Western PA
Ah yes, one other thing, i also have the intake manifold that the CV came with as well..imma see if that'll slip in, in-place of the stock, existing intake branch. That would be an even BIGGER plus! haha.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 400
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From: se ohio
cv converision
sorry for the poor picture quality i have a cheap camera,my heads are not drilled to accept the cv style aircleaner so i made two 1/8th x3/4 stainless brackets that bolt to my lifter blocks and to the back of the air cleaner to support the carb, if i remember correctly i found my mikuni branch intake on ebay really cheap, i got the mikuni rubber adaptor at the local indy shop, the branch intake is 38mm the cv is 40 that is why the adaptor is needed, and a couple of stainless clamps and its done, you have to do a little grinding to the carb end of the rubber adaptor to fit around a block that is on the back of the carb to get the adaptor on far enough to stay, im sure that you cant use the intake that was originally for that cv, thats why you have to get the branch intake or run those cheapo adaptors that bolt to your stock intake
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 89
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From: Western PA
Cool! So as far as your jetting, you say it looks good (assuming you checked plugs eh?) What jets are you running if you recall? just wandering so i know what i should throw in carb BEFORE i bolt it on.
Thanks shep, i appreciate it!
Thanks shep, i appreciate it!
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 751
Likes: 6
From: 500 miles south from Artic Circle
This topic seems to be far form original... but
Intermedia jet about 48, needle up by one click, main jet 170 would be good point to start.
You might want to make some modifications to slide... look instructions from
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm
Intermedia jet about 48, needle up by one click, main jet 170 would be good point to start.
You might want to make some modifications to slide... look instructions from
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm
Stage III
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Lake Placid N.Y.
1982 xls
The generator on my 82 is making a lot of noise. I am going to check the bearings first. If i have to replace the generator, I found one online at Sams Small Engine plus made by Arrowhwead Electrical Products for around 80 dollars new. This sounds crazy cheap. I was wondering if anybody has heard of this product or company.
Last edited by ADK Mark; Oct 27, 2013 at 10:56 AM.
Generators can become very noisy, and in my experience i find nothing wrong.
Best test for the generator is the amps test from the factory service manual. Do the test and if the bearings etc are OK then just live with the noise ...
For this test use a 0-30 ammeter from TSC or an auto supply, the type that is intended to be installed in a dash.
1. Remove all wires from both A and F terminals
2. run a jumper from F to a good ground on the motorcycle
3. run a jumper from A to ammeter +ve
4. run the engine at 2000 RPM
5. momentarily jumper from battery +ve to ammeter -ve
ammeter should read 10 amps or more
If the generator fails this test it must be disassembled for repair.
Best test for the generator is the amps test from the factory service manual. Do the test and if the bearings etc are OK then just live with the noise ...
For this test use a 0-30 ammeter from TSC or an auto supply, the type that is intended to be installed in a dash.
1. Remove all wires from both A and F terminals
2. run a jumper from F to a good ground on the motorcycle
3. run a jumper from A to ammeter +ve
4. run the engine at 2000 RPM
5. momentarily jumper from battery +ve to ammeter -ve
ammeter should read 10 amps or more
If the generator fails this test it must be disassembled for repair.
Stage III
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Lake Placid N.Y.
Thanks Mick, all your posts have been a great help since I
bought this old bike. It's getting cold and snowy in Lake Placid, probably only a couple of rides left and the generator comes off. It sounds like a spun bearing catching and only makes the noise occasionally then stops. I'll check the bearings first then do the test. Thanks again for all your help Mick
bought this old bike. It's getting cold and snowy in Lake Placid, probably only a couple of rides left and the generator comes off. It sounds like a spun bearing catching and only makes the noise occasionally then stops. I'll check the bearings first then do the test. Thanks again for all your help Mick
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The 0-30 and 0-15 [even better] amps can be difficult to find. The auto supplies typically stock 0-60, which woks but you see such a small needle movement. If you do not find one locally try on-line. I got a 0-30 at TSC - more tractor applications there.
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