Weird Oil loss "schedule"
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 153
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From: Bellmawr NJ
Weird Oil loss "schedule"
So oil loss is not new to me, I was replacing a qt of 70wt about every 500-750 miles. Not perfect but it gets me around, still cheaper than my car and 1000 times more fun!
Anyways I have noticed a weird pattern over the last 1200 or so miles, I will have full oil after topping off for a good 250-300 miles, almost no change at all. All the sudden, it happens at the 320-330 mile mark on the full oil tank, I will lose 1-1.25 quarts in what seems like one ride.
When I changed the primary fluid 600 miles ago it was not over filled, it was 21 oz that came out. My oil leaks around the cylinder bases, where the tappet block meets the pushrod tubes, near the genny, and mostly at the rear sprocket (which as a plus keeps my chain nice and lubed! though my rear rim looks cruddy). I don't believe my engine is sumping, or else there would prob be 3 qts too much oil in it from me topping off.
Its just weird that in the span off 20-30 miles I would lose so much oil, but not lose any before the large loss. Any insights?
Anyways I have noticed a weird pattern over the last 1200 or so miles, I will have full oil after topping off for a good 250-300 miles, almost no change at all. All the sudden, it happens at the 320-330 mile mark on the full oil tank, I will lose 1-1.25 quarts in what seems like one ride.
When I changed the primary fluid 600 miles ago it was not over filled, it was 21 oz that came out. My oil leaks around the cylinder bases, where the tappet block meets the pushrod tubes, near the genny, and mostly at the rear sprocket (which as a plus keeps my chain nice and lubed! though my rear rim looks cruddy). I don't believe my engine is sumping, or else there would prob be 3 qts too much oil in it from me topping off.
Its just weird that in the span off 20-30 miles I would lose so much oil, but not lose any before the large loss. Any insights?
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Bellmawr NJ
Its a '78, nothing run to the air cleaner on mine. I would have a perfect explanation if I steadily lost oil, resulting in filling a quart every 300-500 miles or so, its just the fact that it seems to have a full bag until, then will all the sudden lose a lot after 320ish miles is weird. I am topping off tomorrow before I ride to work and see if I can't get any more details. Going back down to 50wt this weekend, we'll see if that changes anything as well.
Do you have the in-tank oil filter? in-tank dip stick? do you remove the filter to check the oil level? I have both the in-tank filter and dip stick in my '78 XLH. I cannot trust the dip stick - i think oil stays up in the filter; one time i ran the oil quite low before i realized what was happening - so i remove the filter to check the oil and keep the oil at the level of the bottom of the flange for the vent line fitting.
It is common to use 60W or 70W in very hot climates. Most of us use 50W.
It is common to use 60W or 70W in very hot climates. Most of us use 50W.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Bellmawr NJ
My 78 has the same setup, dipstick, filter "cup" and filter are in the tank. I check the dipstick with the whole assembly in place, but fill it without the dipstick filter assembly and the oil is still low. The filter seems to hold some oil, but I doubt its more than 3-4oz.
My indie recommended running 70wt in the ironhead and 50wt in the winter, dead set against ironheads running 20w50 which I did last winter. I know this is a hot topic, but I trust my indie (been around since the 60's in the same location) so I generally follow his advice first.
My indie recommended running 70wt in the ironhead and 50wt in the winter, dead set against ironheads running 20w50 which I did last winter. I know this is a hot topic, but I trust my indie (been around since the 60's in the same location) so I generally follow his advice first.
I run 50W in the late spring, summer, and early fall; then 20W50 in winter. Last year i put the 20W50 in too soon - i will not do that again - too much engine noise!
I no longer check the oil level with the filter in place because i found it unreliable - it showed sufficient oil when the oil was low. I wonder if this is happening with yours?
I had to trim some off the end of the dipstick to accomodate the newer style in-tank filters ...
I no longer check the oil level with the filter in place because i found it unreliable - it showed sufficient oil when the oil was low. I wonder if this is happening with yours?
I had to trim some off the end of the dipstick to accomodate the newer style in-tank filters ...
I run 50W in the late spring, summer, and early fall; then 20W50 in winter. Last year i put the 20W50 in too soon - i will not do that again - too much engine noise!
I no longer check the oil level with the filter in place because i found it unreliable - it showed sufficient oil when the oil was low. I wonder if this is happening with yours?
I had to trim some off the end of the dipstick to accomodate the newer style in-tank filters ...
I no longer check the oil level with the filter in place because i found it unreliable - it showed sufficient oil when the oil was low. I wonder if this is happening with yours?
I had to trim some off the end of the dipstick to accomodate the newer style in-tank filters ...
And if this guys bike is drinking straight 70 grade then 20w-50 won't stand a chance.
Op. That is a very bizarre consumption issue. I guess unless you want to take is completely apart I guess just keep your eye on it and keep adding oil.
I suppose on the plus side you would never have to change your oil,just the filter due to constant top ups.
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To add a note to my previous post, taking the filter out can be messy. I lift it up and set it down at an angle so it is above the oil. Then i leave it for whatever time while i do something else giving the oil in the filter time to drain out. Then i lift it out and look in with a small flashlite, hoping to see the oil level close to the bottom of the flange for the vent.
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 566
Likes: 3
From: rural ontario
My oil leaks around the cylinder bases, where the tappet block meets the pushrod tubes, near the genny, and mostly at the rear sprocket (which as a plus keeps my chain nice and lubed! though my rear rim looks cruddy).
Take some time and address these leaks.
The cylinder base--may just need to be tightened (30ft-lbs)
push-rod tube -- new corks
genny -- new gasket (make one from rubber auto gasket paper)
rear sprocket -- new seal and a bit more involved but not difficult
Take some time and address these leaks.
The cylinder base--may just need to be tightened (30ft-lbs)
push-rod tube -- new corks
genny -- new gasket (make one from rubber auto gasket paper)
rear sprocket -- new seal and a bit more involved but not difficult
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