back with oil tank issue
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back with oil tank issue
ok last year i posted a question about mounted my oil tank. well alot of things got in the way for me to continue on my build. now the weather was getting nicer so i could continue. wasnt aloud to bring the bike into the dining room to work on it. (sniff sniff) i ended up refabricating the tank from the prev. owner. had a piece welded on the bottom where it was cut out and had straps made. i had also the last time cut part of my starter block off plate to originally fit this tank. well now i think i may have to scrap that idea and go buy a new block off plate. reason being i can get it to possibly mount to my block off plate. but now i have an issue as far as mounting it to the frame. i may not be able to stop the movement of the tank in the rear. i need ideas and opinions on also mounting it besides on my block off plate. another thing i did find after this supposed brain storm is my rear exhaust is less than 1/2" away from oil tank. is this also gonna be an issue too? im getting so close i can taste it. i just dont wanna go down the road and the thing vibrate loose.
thanks for the help, lanky
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thanks for the help, lanky
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Houston Texas
RE: back with oil tank issue
Help me understand the situation better....
Photograph 1: It appears that you are within 3/4" to an inch from being able to bolt the tank to the block off plate using a 5/16 bolt and nut. That about right?
You really need some welding equipment here, or else have a shop close by that could do a few beads for you. Anyway, this is how I would do the tank:
I would weld a 5/16 nut to the inside of the block plate, below and missing that existing hole. Use the tank lug to locate this nut's position on the block plate. Next, drill out the plate (going through the welded on nut) with a drill bit size F and run a 5/16-18 tap through the hole. Yeah, I know, you do not have any alphabet drills but you can pick one up at a good hardware store. Ditto for the tap. You will use them again, so it's not like you are making a one time purchase.
Mark the outside of the block plate using a flat washer placed over the tapped hole as a templet and then grind off the existing hole and other excess block plate material to leave a nice neat finished edge..
Photograph 2: This looks like you have made two straps to go around the frame spine member to hold the tank on. That is good. Just weld both straps to the spine member as positioned....weld top and bottom of each strap.
How does the battery support tie in with all of this? If you weld the straps in, can you remove the battery later on? Be sure you can before welding anything.
Photograph 3&4: Looks like it will work to me.
You said the rear exhaust pipe is within 1/2 inch of hitting the oil tank....<was this going to be an issue?>...... Half inch clear is plenty. Will the pipe hit the kickstart lever? That is sometimes an issue, so check that it is clear all the way through the kickstart arc........pg
Photograph 1: It appears that you are within 3/4" to an inch from being able to bolt the tank to the block off plate using a 5/16 bolt and nut. That about right?
You really need some welding equipment here, or else have a shop close by that could do a few beads for you. Anyway, this is how I would do the tank:
I would weld a 5/16 nut to the inside of the block plate, below and missing that existing hole. Use the tank lug to locate this nut's position on the block plate. Next, drill out the plate (going through the welded on nut) with a drill bit size F and run a 5/16-18 tap through the hole. Yeah, I know, you do not have any alphabet drills but you can pick one up at a good hardware store. Ditto for the tap. You will use them again, so it's not like you are making a one time purchase.
Mark the outside of the block plate using a flat washer placed over the tapped hole as a templet and then grind off the existing hole and other excess block plate material to leave a nice neat finished edge..
Photograph 2: This looks like you have made two straps to go around the frame spine member to hold the tank on. That is good. Just weld both straps to the spine member as positioned....weld top and bottom of each strap.
How does the battery support tie in with all of this? If you weld the straps in, can you remove the battery later on? Be sure you can before welding anything.
Photograph 3&4: Looks like it will work to me.
You said the rear exhaust pipe is within 1/2 inch of hitting the oil tank....<was this going to be an issue?>...... Half inch clear is plenty. Will the pipe hit the kickstart lever? That is sometimes an issue, so check that it is clear all the way through the kickstart arc........pg
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RE: back with oil tank issue
that was another issue also is the battery. it does just sit in the oil tank but i wouldnt be able to remove it from the tank if i weld the straps to the frame. as far as the drill bits i do have the letter set bits. they were given to me for a gift. so thats not a problem. i am gonna have to check the kick but i think im clear enough. but i unsure. never gave it too much thought than. thank you, lanky
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Houston Texas
RE: back with oil tank issue
OK lanky....
Yes, building a bike makes you look ahead for problems that always pop up later, despite the best efforts to head them off by doing a little planning.
Let me ask you this....How do you plan to remove the battery?
It looks to me like you will have to swing the oil tank forward to get it out. If that is the case, weld only the two straps at the backside of the frame spline. Unfastening the bolts at each side would allow you to swing the tank and battery forward, would it not?
Here is another pitfall...that rear exhaust pipe. Will it be in the way? Better to devise a way to remove the battery easily, rather than have to unbolt half the machine to get a battery out.
Now is the time to work out the problems, When you think you have it figured out, put all the pieces together and make a dry run before you weld anything.
If you want to tap the hole with a 5/16-18 tap, then the 'F' drill bit is the correct size to give you 75% thread strength...that's standard.
Be sure to check out the kickstart lever clearance......pg
Yes, building a bike makes you look ahead for problems that always pop up later, despite the best efforts to head them off by doing a little planning.
Let me ask you this....How do you plan to remove the battery?
It looks to me like you will have to swing the oil tank forward to get it out. If that is the case, weld only the two straps at the backside of the frame spline. Unfastening the bolts at each side would allow you to swing the tank and battery forward, would it not?
Here is another pitfall...that rear exhaust pipe. Will it be in the way? Better to devise a way to remove the battery easily, rather than have to unbolt half the machine to get a battery out.
Now is the time to work out the problems, When you think you have it figured out, put all the pieces together and make a dry run before you weld anything.
If you want to tap the hole with a 5/16-18 tap, then the 'F' drill bit is the correct size to give you 75% thread strength...that's standard.
Be sure to check out the kickstart lever clearance......pg
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RE: back with oil tank issue
the battery removal has been a concern to me from the beginning.i dont think there will be an easy way to take it out no matter what i do. but on your 1st reply, the more i read it and studied my photos the more sense it does make. i also wasnt thinking in my last post cuz the straps are boltedonto the welded piece.now on your 2nd reply im getting the idea that i should just weld the rear straps. should i do both steps as far as the new nut also as stated in your 1st post? the exhaust will be in the way for removal so i would have to either drop it forwardand remove it from the left side. this is gonna be the easiest way to do it. didnt get a chance to check out the kick position yet. we got alot of snow and my 12hr nite last nite had no chance. thanks for your help ill have to shovel my way to the garage tomorrow and let ya know about the kick.
lanky
lanky
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Houston Texas
RE: back with oil tank issue
Lanky...
I looked over the photos again and I recommend you:
1) Weld both brackets to the backside of the frame member.
2) Support the front of the oil tank using the method I suggested earlier involving welding a nut to the block plate, drilling thru and tapping the plate for a 5/16-18 bolt.
3) The battery: I believe when the time comes to remove the battery for replacement the easy way will be to just unbolt the oil tank from the brackets and bring the tank forward far enough to yank the battery.
You may have to pull the rear exhaust pipe to do this, but that is a small matter and the battery is going to last a long time, so it's not like you have to do this every month. Make sure your oil tank is good and tightly fastened to the frame. We are talking about having three hitch points here and I think that is enough. If it seems a little fragile to you, then weld on a carefully placed bracket that will support the weight of the oil tank and battery. This would be welded to the front side of the frame member and you could use a piece of 2x2 angle for this bracket. I don't think you will need to do this, but I would have to see it to be certain.
A larger battery concern that I had not thought of until looking at the photos is the fact that you need to keep an eye on the battery water level. Looks like you are running with a six volt. I think you may be able to pull the seat off and have access to the battery caps and you can add water using a small hydrometer or a small funnel with a piece of plastic hose stuck on it.......pg
I looked over the photos again and I recommend you:
1) Weld both brackets to the backside of the frame member.
2) Support the front of the oil tank using the method I suggested earlier involving welding a nut to the block plate, drilling thru and tapping the plate for a 5/16-18 bolt.
3) The battery: I believe when the time comes to remove the battery for replacement the easy way will be to just unbolt the oil tank from the brackets and bring the tank forward far enough to yank the battery.
You may have to pull the rear exhaust pipe to do this, but that is a small matter and the battery is going to last a long time, so it's not like you have to do this every month. Make sure your oil tank is good and tightly fastened to the frame. We are talking about having three hitch points here and I think that is enough. If it seems a little fragile to you, then weld on a carefully placed bracket that will support the weight of the oil tank and battery. This would be welded to the front side of the frame member and you could use a piece of 2x2 angle for this bracket. I don't think you will need to do this, but I would have to see it to be certain.
A larger battery concern that I had not thought of until looking at the photos is the fact that you need to keep an eye on the battery water level. Looks like you are running with a six volt. I think you may be able to pull the seat off and have access to the battery caps and you can add water using a small hydrometer or a small funnel with a piece of plastic hose stuck on it.......pg
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