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I also have a 2017 Ultra Limited that developed overheating problems at about 38,000 miles. I have stock heads on top of 124 ci cylinders so was out of any type of warranty. I determined the water pump had seized so replaced along with the temp sender that is at the bottom of the left radiator. I don't think the temp sender was bad but system was drained so figured might as well replace it. Problem solved and it was an easy fix.
The pump is very easy to remove, maybe 10 min. Then remove the cover from pump and try to turn the impeller with your fingers. If you can't it is stuck. You can also plug it back into the bike and force it to run by (if I remember correctly) turning to ignition to on and pressing both turn signal switches for several seconds.
I own 2019 M8 purchased 8/24/19 825miles lumped 4 quarts into crankcase. Bike has been at dealer for two weeks, I hope I'm not in the road as some the other post I've read with back and forth to dealer with this sumping issue. my bike is completely stock no MODS. not going to do any mods until issue is fixed.has anyone heard any good news with the oil pump from s&s ? thanks for feed back.
I own 2019 M8 purchased 8/24/19 825miles lumped 4 quarts into crankcase. Bike has been at dealer for two weeks, I hope I'm not in the road as some the other post I've read with back and forth to dealer with this sumping issue. my bike is completely stock no MODS. not going to do any mods until issue is fixed.has anyone heard any good news with the oil pump from s&s ? thanks for feed back.
I wouldnt go aftermarket while its still in warranty. Harley has a new oil pump that they've been putting in '19 bikes manufactured after 5/22/19 and all 2020 bikes, the dealer will almost certainly recommend this, and it would be foolish at this point to disregard that guidance
I purchased a 2017 ultra limited with the liquid cooled M8 in November of 2016. Had Harley do a stage 3 immediately . The bike has been a pleasure to ride, not a trailer queen. NY to Sturgis, NY to Key West, NY to Daytona a few times, NY to New Orleans just to name a few. Now at almost 19,000 miles the bike is experiencing serious overheating problems and the dealer (Harley Davidson of Charlotte NC) in conjunction with Tech services in Milwaukee cant figure it out. Bike has been in for this issue 5 times in the last Month and a half. Antifreeze leaking into the combustion chamber due to hairline cracks in the cylinder walls, that was what HD told me, manufacturing defect. They cracked the rear cylinder open (literally with a sledge hammer) and replaced. Two days later the wife and I went out for an evening ride and within 15 miles or so the bike overheated. temperature and engine light on. They have the bike now, stay tuned.........
Originally Posted by skid_pimp
I was under the impression that only the heads were liquid cooled on the Rushmores and M8s. If so how does any damage, hairline cracks or not, to the cylinder walls make this failure?
That is correct.
Cracks in the cylinder walls don't lead to antifreeze in the combustion chamber - cracks in the heads will.
Cracks in the cylinder walls could be caused by the overheating itself. I'd be looking at the water pump condition, as well as the AFR set by whoever did your tuning (I assume the dealership did this). One of two things is happening - either improper heating, or running too lean/hot. Maybe both.
Anyone have a problem withe the 2020 M8 FLTRK having a high idle when it's hot? I was at Destination Daytona yesterday and the bike would idle at 1800 to 2000 rpm's when it was hot. If I slightly rolled the throttle forward it would idle correctly. The dealer said he had a few others doing the same thing but if it didn't have a dummy light on there would be no code to find out what was the cause. I started it this morning while it was cold and everything is back to normal.
Anyone have a problem withe the 2020 M8 FLTRK having a high idle when it's hot? I was at Destination Daytona yesterday and the bike would idle at 1800 to 2000 rpm's when it was hot. If I slightly rolled the throttle forward it would idle correctly. The dealer said he had a few others doing the same thing but if it didn't have a dummy light on there would be no code to find out what was the cause. I started it this morning while it was cold and everything is back to normal.
I know the 2018's will rev up to 1000, when in eitms mode but 2000?
Just to make sure there is no update about the rpm increase, what does the owner's manual say about that?
2019 Road glide 114. Bike will make a series of clacking noises not uniform. Sounds pretty bad. Very noticeable. Only when restarted after fully warmed up. And only after sitting 5-10 minutes. Wont do it if turned off and started right back up immediately. This will keep going on until back on the road then it goes away until turning the engine off again. Its done it ever since it was brand new first day home from the dealer. It sounds like metal on metal, like something is vibrating and contacting something else. But i cant find anything hitting. Sound is right at the engine ip around the heads. It has gotten worse since having the stage 2 torque cam done. Any ideas appreciated.
2019 Road glide 114. Bike will make a series of clacking noises not uniform. Sounds pretty bad. Very noticeable. Only when restarted after fully warmed up. And only after sitting 5-10 minutes. Wont do it if turned off and started right back up immediately. This will keep going on until back on the road then it goes away until turning the engine off again. Its done it ever since it was brand new first day home from the dealer. It sounds like metal on metal, like something is vibrating and contacting something else. But i cant find anything hitting. Sound is right at the engine ip around the heads. It has gotten worse since having the stage 2 torque cam done. Any ideas appreciated.
2019 Road glide 114. Bike will make a series of clacking noises not uniform. Sounds pretty bad. Very noticeable. Only when restarted after fully warmed up. And only after sitting 5-10 minutes. Wont do it if turned off and started right back up immediately. This will keep going on until back on the road then it goes away until turning the engine off again. Its done it ever since it was brand new first day home from the dealer. It sounds like metal on metal, like something is vibrating and contacting something else. But i cant find anything hitting. Sound is right at the engine ip around the heads. It has gotten worse since having the stage 2 torque cam done. Any ideas appreciated.
So It made that noise from day 1, youve most likely got an oil filter full of swarf.
I would have taken it back to the dealership before I got it home.
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