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Old Nov 16, 2016 | 03:43 PM
  #211  
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Default oil coolent line leak

I have a 2017 street glide with about 870 miles on it and the oile line blew out yesterday near the rear cylinder head. took to the shop and they jumped right on it to there credit but the they dont have the part in stock and they have to order it. mean while here i set with some of the nicest weather for Nov and cant ride the bike.

update

so the shop replace hoses, orings , worm drive clams etc on the back but still leaks though not as much. now they are thinking there was 2 leaks the hose and apparently top gasket on the cylinder. I had just had them put on the 114 kit - only had 87 miles on the break end when these oil leaks started happen. so they have to tear down the rear cylinder and put on new gaskets. hope that fixes the situation .

well the latest update is that after they took it all down the cause of the leak was a broken head bolt. got the bike back and all is well now - no leaks.
 

Last edited by lvas12; Nov 20, 2016 at 08:03 PM. Reason: update
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Old Nov 16, 2016 | 07:01 PM
  #212  
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that is my worry. my new SGS was scheduled for the stage 1 install today. I called them to see if they would swap out the cheap springy oil hose clamp for a screw on worm type and they said they couldn't because they didn't want to "upset" anything that could cause an issue later. they recommended I keep things as is and if I did have a problem, to bring it in then.. obviously that's what I was trying to avoid but in any event I am picking up my bike in the next day or so. I may just perform the swap myself.

as for the Triumph Bonnevilles, I have a new 2016 T120 Black with the new liquid cooled 1200cc engine design. Another first year design for that bike. Awesome bike. Dual disk brakes, ABS, traction control, heated grips, ride by wire, two ride modes, LED lights, etc. All factory default, none were optional upgrades. Had an oil leak issue a week after picking her up. Heard about the issue on the forums but never thought it would hit me especially after giving it a few more months before ordering it. I had to take it back twice before it was finally fixed. Now my hazards don't come on. Some sort of wiring issue. Oh well. I guess it really doesnt matter when you order these things. if it's going to happen, it's going to happen. btw, the Bonneville is an awesome bike. Traded my GSXR 750 for it and never looked back.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 06:27 AM
  #213  
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Originally Posted by Drodrigueznyc
that is my worry. my new SGS was scheduled for the stage 1 install today. I called them to see if they would swap out the cheap springy oil hose clamp for a screw on worm type and they said they couldn't because they didn't want to "upset" anything that could cause an issue later. they recommended I keep things as is and if I did have a problem, to bring it in then.. obviously that's what I was trying to avoid but in any event I am picking up my bike in the next day or so. I may just perform the swap myself.
They don't want to do it because it's not billable. If it fails the way it is they can submit it and get paid to do it. If you fix it and have a problem later they might give you a hard time covering it under warranty.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 06:42 AM
  #214  
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Originally Posted by Drodrigueznyc
I heard about that. some M8 bikes were leaking oil via a cheap spring type clamp that ultimately was replaced by HD to a worm clamp. My local dealer confirmed one or two bikes that had the same issue. You would think that by now any new bike being delivered would have this simple fix already applied. Do you have a pic of the clamp and location you can share? I am picking up my bike this week and will be looking to do that swap as soon as I bring her home. Local dealer may not do it for me unless it starts to leak or something. btw, let us know how the fan assisted cooler works out. I'm interested in doing that myself.
Worm gear clamps must be installed by hand and are labor intensive. Spring clamps, not so that is the reason they are used industry wide. Even in the automotive industry. It is my understanding that spring clamps can be installed by robotic means.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 06:45 AM
  #215  
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Originally Posted by Wide Open Cycles
They don't want to do it because it's not billable. If it fails the way it is they can submit it and get paid to do it. If you fix it and have a problem later they might give you a hard time covering it under warranty.
Excellent answer. As long as the mc is under warranty, don't change to screw type. You don't want to give the MoCo any wiggle room.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 09:28 AM
  #216  
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Maybe I'm missing something here, but from what I can see in parts diagrams several 'spring' clamps are used on the oil coolant lines. It looks like the spring clamp could be repositioned a little further away from the end of the hose. That should allow a 'worm gear' clamp to be installed in it's place. And since the worm gear clamp can be opened and slipped over the hose, there wouldn't and need to remove/disconnect the hose.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 10:08 AM
  #217  
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my service manager said he applied a thin film of sealant on the tube the hose attaches to along with the new hose and spring clamp as a precautionary measure..mine didn't start leaking until 2 months and 2700 miles...is kind of interesting that the fan assisted oil cooler kits come with worm drive clamps..maybe the MoCo knows something to not want to provide the spring clamps as replacement..but pure speculation...just concerning for something as critical as oil leaks / plumbing related issues...either way the solution isn't rocket science
 
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 10:18 AM
  #218  
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Safety wire
 
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 10:22 AM
  #219  
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i think the spring clamps are much better as they support the connection 360* around the fitting. the worm drve clamps will cut into the hose after awhile and you have to keep tighting them up. auto industry has been using them for years without failures.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 11:08 AM
  #220  
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Originally Posted by hardheaded
i think the spring clamps are much better as they support the connection 360* around the fitting. the worm drve clamps will cut into the hose after awhile and you have to keep tighting them up. auto industry has been using them for years without failures.
you may have a point, on the times I have replaced OEM spring clamps in places I have wrapped some electrical tape around the hose as a barrier between the worm drive clamp and the hose..probably unnecessary overkill paranoia but mad me feel better about not having metal edges clamping down on rubber, especially since I would tighten them up real good
 
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