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I did the WD 40 thing and it fixed it for a while. Then it came back and I couldn't get it working again. Told HD and as it turns out, there is a TSB about it.
They replaced the entire clutch caliper and lever. A guy behind me heard me talking about it at the service desk and asked why he was not notified and they said, you have to ask.
Anybody have a copy of this clutch TSB they can post up?
Anybody have a copy of this clutch TSB they can post up?
I could use a copy of that service bulletin as well. I have a bike Im doing some work on for a friend and his has the same issue. Dealer had allegedly replaced the switch housing, but told him it was a wiring problem in the handlebars-which had been changed. He decided to change bars yet again and since Im pulling all the harnesses and transferring to the new bars, I told him Id check all the wiring out. Well, I tested all the harnesses and they are all good. So, I took that switch apart and its definitely not replaceable without the entire left bar switch assembly. Every switch function on that entire pack is relayed down the bars with 4 wires. Ground, hot, can high and can low. In this case, its not really Harley trying to get over on anyone by forcing them to replace the entire switch pack, its just a necessity of the systems design requirements. The clutch switch itself is a micro switch and has a very tiny on/off engagement point. Certainly, the quality might be better, but all the other switches in that assembly seem to be robust, as I have not heard of any major issues with loss of function on those. Im guessing its an issue of interfacing the clutch lever with the switch button due to the short movement of the micro switch. Anyway, I stretched out the spring under the button, Im hoping that will fix it, but if there is a new and improved switch Ill tell him to go back to the Moco and bitch until they replace it. Although he might have already been reported for altering the bikes handlebars, subsequently voiding his warranty.
Last edited by tommy1727; May 19, 2018 at 09:58 PM.
I had same issue on my 17 RK SP, sometimes would work fine, other times wouldn't work fine. Usually related to washing and raining. Finally decided to take apart to see if it was something I could fix. Didn't want to deal with the drop, wait dealer dance thing.
Spraying a lubricant isn't gonna necessarily fix the problem as I found out later when disassembling the switch. There is a silicone tab cover that wasn't mounted onto the micro-switch well. Removed, cleaned, stretched out spring as mentioned above and reassembled. So far, no problems. We'll see the next time I get rained on.
As mentioned, the reason this switch is so expensive is it's all one unit on a hinge in order to swing around handlebar. Note: the primary benefit to lubing this switch externally is to facilitate the barrel return operation, but if the barrel tab isn't engaging the micro switch properly via the silicone tab, it's mute.
I was able to take the cap off the clutch switch button and stretch the spring about a half inch. Taking my time it took less than an hour and now works.
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