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I noticed that my 2017 RK clutch switch wasn't working. Bike would not start with the clutch in and bike not in neutral. Was going to take it in but figured it was worth a try to fix as I'd end up hanging around while it was being done.. Anyway the fix was easy.
When you pull the clutch in, you see a little button sticking out right near the pivot point of the lever. Is you move the clutch in and out, you see a spot near the pivot point that allow the button to slide out as the lever is pulled in and get pushed back in as lever is released. All I did was pull the lever in and with a small screw driver push the button in and let it snap out a couple times. After that the bike will start with the tranny in gear and the clutch in.
That's an old Tech trick! Switches are supposedly designed to be "self cleaning", but sometimes the contacts just don't get enough "active force" delivered to the contacts to wipe away the crud that forms. A couple of quick snaps often is just what they need to clean up and work properly again.
Did you have any stalling issues when the switch malfunctioned?
I read on some other thread(s) that the clutch switch malfunction would cause stalling issues when coming to a stop and some had their stall issue fixed by replacing the clutch switch. I didn't understand the connection and stated so. But since, I have experienced first hand that there is a connection between the two.
I modified my clutch lever to alter the engagement location. During that modification I had to reshape the lobe on the clutch lever that interfaces with the clutch switch for proper switch function.
During the process I found that my bike would stall when coming to a stop. Once I had the lobe reshaped appropriately to allow proper switch function the stall issue disappeared. Then I inserted a shim between the clutch lever and the switch to simulate an inoperative switch and wouldn't you know it, the stalling issue reappeared.
My "shimming" experiment proved to me that the switch function and the stalling were related. I don't know the exact mechanism by which the relationship exists, but it does exist.
So, besides not starting in gear, a stalling issue is also an indicator that the clutch switch may be malfunctioning.
During my experiences, I have also manually operated the switch as you've described following a stall/no start in gear episode.
When The switch on my bike quit working, Lubricating it brought it back to life. The same switch is on bike #2 now and still working.[ I swapped bars from my 17 to the 18 ]
great share, thanks..I'm on my 2nd switch on my RK and wife is on #3 on her Freewheeler..definitely need to put this info in the 'vault' to try when one of them acts up again..one of the great things about this forum, I would not have thought to try this..lubed it before which was just a temporary thing, but nice to have a quick effective workaround instead of hassling with service appointments.
Did you have any stalling issues when the switch malfunctioned?
I read on some other thread(s) that the clutch switch malfunction would cause stalling issues when coming to a stop and some had their stall issue fixed by replacing the clutch switch. I didn't understand the connection and stated so. But since, I have experienced first hand that there is a connection between the two.
I modified my clutch lever to alter the engagement location. During that modification I had to reshape the lobe on the clutch lever that interfaces with the clutch switch for proper switch function.
During the process I found that my bike would stall when coming to a stop. Once I had the lobe reshaped appropriately to allow proper switch function the stall issue disappeared. Then I inserted a shim between the clutch lever and the switch to simulate an inoperative switch and wouldn't you know it, the stalling issue reappeared.
My "shimming" experiment proved to me that the switch function and the stalling were related. I don't know the exact mechanism by which the relationship exists, but it does exist.
So, besides not starting in gear, a stalling issue is also an indicator that the clutch switch may be malfunctioning.
During my experiences, I have also manually operated the switch as you've described following a stall/no start in gear episode.
While mine never completely stalled, it would come real close. After some miles this tweak, I can say that it hasn't come close to stalling so fixing the switch appears to have fixed the "almost stall" in my case.
I noticed that my 2017 RK clutch switch wasn't working. Bike would not start with the clutch in and bike not in neutral. Was going to take it in but figured it was worth a try to fix as I'd end up hanging around while it was being done.. Anyway the fix was easy.
When you pull the clutch in, you see a little button sticking out right near the pivot point of the lever. Is you move the clutch in and out, you see a spot near the pivot point that allow the button to slide out as the lever is pulled in and get pushed back in as lever is released. All I did was pull the lever in and with a small screw driver push the button in and let it snap out a couple times. After that the bike will start with the tranny in gear and the clutch in.
Thanks, good info. Wish you could make a quick video to perhaps post on you tube. Would help lots of folks have or had this issue.
Sprayed some WD40 Garage Door lube on mine. Been flawless since. Probably 100 starts in gear, with clutch pulled in.
I tried using WD-40 on my clutch switch, but no change. Still have the issue.
Was told by a friend who has an HD exclusive shop to simply short the switch, bypassing it altogether, but I'm afraid the computer might notice that and throw up an error code. Can anyone confirm this would work without giving an error?
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