Been there with the Baker, bent 2 of them with my 120 TC. Got the latest version on the shelf, tried installing it but didn't like the chain angle over the shoe and when rotating it made some noise, so took it out. Next time I'm in there I'll weld the stock unit. The new Baker was also slightly angled out of the box, didn't like that.

 

Are you sure that you rotated the chain around to find the absolute "tightest" spot before setting the adjustment? AFAIK, adjusting them at a "loose" spot is the leading cause of them getting bent. That's the downfall of the OEM unit. It adjusts to the loosest spot and when the tight spot comes around the chain can be massively over-tight - that's what trashes the inner primary bearings and can damage the comp and crankshaft bearing, too.

The slack in my '15 Limited varies by a full 1/2 inch and was like that the day I bought the bike and installed the Baker unit. For the record, my chain was guitar-string-tight on the COLD bike when I took the cover off (62 total miles on the clock) - and they get even tighter at op temp due to expansion.

Mine was a little noisy at first, too, but I had put Redline primary lube in it. Changing to Formula+ silenced it. FWIW, Mine is the original unit, not the updated version.

Welding the stock unit will certainly eliminate any future over-tightening once and for all. Just make sure it's not already over-tightening the chain before goin' for it!

Good luck and best wishes,

JP

 

 

Ive hear too tight of a chain can screw bearings, what about too loose? Other than the noise, will it do any harm to components?

 

I can't say for sure but with it loose you'll feel drive train slop and possibly additional vibration.

 

Depends how loose. Very loose primary chains can take lumps out of the inside of the primary chain cases. Ordinary everyday loose chains cause the teeth on the drive sprocket and clutch drum to wear into a 'hook' shape. Loose chains wear sprockets out prematurely, worn sprockets wear out chains faster.