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I have an '18 Road Glide Special with just modded factory slip-ons currently. Itching for an aftermarket cam and tuner. Bike has 7,600 miles and roughly a year and a half of warranty left. I decide to say screw the warranty this winter add a pipe and TTS Mastertune along with a cam of choice and it sumps next summer......
What are we talking damage repair here?
Sumping engine failures are heat related due to lack of oil/oil pressure over a period of time it sounds.
So are we talking repair the tit end and rebuilb the heads or needing to split cases? In general terms. If I go down this rabbit hole and have a failure, then I would not be replacing to be stock form as it was. I get it, if I would do that anyways, then what is really the risk? Just not looking to coin up to rebuild as a 131 when a top end repair is all that would be required.
So I take it this is a what if question. It can’t be easily answered because there are varying degrees of sumping. If it sumps not to severely and doesn’t hurt the lower end then a top end may or may not be needed. If it locks up the lower end bearings then the crankshaft and top end will need replacing. If you want to replace the cam and tune it then put the oil pump plate with the seal in. If you haven’t sumped by now you’re probably Ok.
So I take it this is a what if question. It cant be easily answered because there are varying degrees of sumping. If it sumps not to severely and doesnt hurt the lower end then a top end may or may not be needed. If it locks up the lower end bearings then the crankshaft and top end will need replacing. If you want to replace the cam and tune it then put the oil pump plate with the seal in. If you havent sumped by now youre probably Ok.
Exactly what I was looking for. Rainy day bored makes the mind question things. Pump plate and seal for sure. Much appreciated.
I have an '18 Road Glide Special with just modded factory slip-ons currently. Itching for an aftermarket cam and tuner. Bike has 7,600 miles and roughly a year and a half of warranty left. I decide to say screw the warranty this winter add a pipe and TTS Mastertune along with a cam of choice and it sumps next summer......
What are we talking damage repair here?
Sumping engine failures are heat related due to lack of oil/oil pressure over a period of time it sounds.
So are we talking repair the tit end and rebuilb the heads or needing to split cases? In general terms. If I go down this rabbit hole and have a failure, then I would not be replacing to be stock form as it was. I get it, if I would do that anyways, then what is really the risk? Just not looking to coin up to rebuild as a 131 when a top end repair is all that would be required.
That is my intent. Seen some go bad on here. Have read pointers about pulling the inner cam bearing. Should be fine.
Adam
the cam and tuner make a big change ,I think sumping is way over played (there are few facts on the how and why) . I guess cause I have not seen it happen or happen to me . Its a hobby for me so warranty is a non issue and most things can be seen or felt before a major failure that hits the pocket book to hard . I mean really worst case is you have to crack a case and do it yourself . Im not sure what a short block costs but it can all get pretty costly. I have to say nothing compares to a harley that rips
$tonecold has posted a wealth of data on cams and also the trans issue .
Last edited by jsrracing; Nov 3, 2018 at 07:00 PM.
Exactly what I was looking for. Rainy day bored makes the mind question things. Pump plate and seal for sure. Much appreciated.
Adam
Another problem with the M8 is the glue on the piston oiler gaskets washes out and the oilers leak past them. If you decide to do a big bore where you are pulling the cylinders off be sure to address this. What Steve Cole has been doing is soaking the gaskets in lacquer thinner to remove the glue and I think he is using a longer screw, but that Im not sure about.
Cometis also makes an aftermarket gasket for this application.
Another problem with the M8 is the glue on the piston oiler gaskets washes out and the oilers leak past them. If you decide to do a big bore where you are pulling the cylinders off be sure to address this. What Steve Cole has been doing is soaking the gaskets in lacquer thinner to remove the glue and I think he is using a longer screw, but that Im not sure about.
Cometis also makes an aftermarket gasket for this application.
While we are on it.....changing out the lifers whilst in there. s&s retainers or oem sufficient? Another glue/bolt to be careful of from reading.
the cam and tuner make a big change ,I think sumping is way over played (there are few facts on the how and why) . I guess cause I have not seen it happen or happen to me . Its a hobby for me so warranty is a non issue and most things can be seen or felt before a major failure that hits the pocket book to hard . I mean really worst case is you have to crack a case and do it yourself . Im not sure what a short block costs but it can all get pretty costly. I have to say nothing compares to a harley that rips
$tonecold has posted a wealth of data on cams and also the trans issue .
Agreed, but in terms of warranty....sumping and it's repair costs would be the only warranty service on these non water cooled M8s I feel might have been worth retaining it for the 2 year duration.
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