Hopping Harley
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 112
Likes: 31
From: western hemisphere
The reason the bike jumped is that the transmission oil is likely cold and thick preventing normal clutch slippage. Even if you had tranny-to-primary fluid migration (which was cured and the cure was built into the 2019's) that would not cause what you described.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 7,890
Likes: 4,451
From: Texas
I have a 2019 ULTRA, and am having an issue starting it in gear. Even with the clutch pulled in, the bike jumps forward with the starter engaged.
I believe I read on a post somewhere that this was tied into sumping or fluid transfer, but could not find the post again.
Any help with this one?
I believe I read on a post somewhere that this was tied into sumping or fluid transfer, but could not find the post again.
Any help with this one?
Two follow-up questions: Was you 2019 affected by the clutch actuator recall, and if so, has the actuator been replaced? Do you have an aftermarket clutch actuator?
Exactly what I was thinking. Also, OP doesn't state mods, but if he has an AIM actuator installed, that has been known to leak and cause this as well.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 4,126
Likes: 2,117
From: W. MI.
It's a 19, so there is no clutch adjustment. My guess is it's cold, so the clutch discs were stuck a little with the cold oil. Running it in neutral flung the oil off the clutch. Starting again with clutch pulled would stop the lurch because there is less oil between the clutch discs.
. That's what I get for having EVOs, staying with what I know, and not having newer bikes. Nice, can't adjust the clutch, perfect.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 7,890
Likes: 4,451
From: Texas
With a hydraulically-actuated clutch, there's hardly a reason to adjust the clutch. Since it's a closed system, the volume of fluid does not change, so you get the correct amount of pressure on the clutch plates and the same action each and every time. Adjustment would only remove pressure from the clutch disks, which adjusts the friction zone, but 1) reduces the amount of torque it can handle, and 2) will lead to wear.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 413
Likes: 160
From: Parksville B.C.
I always start my bikes in neutral unless it’s one of those embarrassing stall moments which fortunately don’t happen too often. It was a small learning curve getting used to the hydraulic clutch. When it’s cold out the clutch plates will be a little sticky and not want to disengage.
Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 230
Likes: 76
From: MD, USA
I had a Kawasaki bagger (2016 Vaquero) before I got my 2019 FLHXS, and this HD definitely lurches more upon startup in gear than my Kawi did, but even my Vulcan 800 has a slight lurch to it... I think it's just normal.
I also notice that when it's cold out (<40F), the lurch is worse, presumably because of what other posters said - cold oil doesn't flow well. Finding neutral on a cold 114 isn't easy either, it usually takes a few tries to get it right, and the Neutral light doesn't even come on sometimes until the bike is running, gotta rock it back and forth to check.
Finally, with the stock oil in it, cold weather starts are much harder than warm weather ones - it even mentions this in the owner's manual. This can also cause problems - for me it's a "hard start" condition that requires a fully-charged battery to even start the bike when it's <32F out.
So, OP, wait until the spring, watch some videos on YouTube with HDs in them to get your vroom vroom fix, or actually go ride the thing once the roads are clear and dry
-John
I also notice that when it's cold out (<40F), the lurch is worse, presumably because of what other posters said - cold oil doesn't flow well. Finding neutral on a cold 114 isn't easy either, it usually takes a few tries to get it right, and the Neutral light doesn't even come on sometimes until the bike is running, gotta rock it back and forth to check.
Finally, with the stock oil in it, cold weather starts are much harder than warm weather ones - it even mentions this in the owner's manual. This can also cause problems - for me it's a "hard start" condition that requires a fully-charged battery to even start the bike when it's <32F out.
So, OP, wait until the spring, watch some videos on YouTube with HDs in them to get your vroom vroom fix, or actually go ride the thing once the roads are clear and dry
-John
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 1,143
Likes: 433
From: Menifee, CA
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Joe Kucinski
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
With a hydraulically-actuated clutch, there's hardly a reason to adjust the clutch. Since it's a closed system, the volume of fluid does not change, so you get the correct amount of pressure on the clutch plates and the same action each and every time. Adjustment would only remove pressure from the clutch disks, which adjusts the friction zone, but 1) reduces the amount of torque it can handle, and 2) will lead to wear.
As for pressure on the clutch plates, the hydraulic-actuation has no effect. Clutch plate pressure is mechanically controlled by spring selection.
Friction zone adjustments on a hydraulically-actuated clutch can only be accomplished by mechanical modification(s) upstream of the master cylinder that will change the stroke applied to the master cylinder, or by changing the displacement of either, or both, the master cylinder and the secondary actuator. There is no mechanical adjustment mechanism as you would find on a cable system.
Last edited by 2black1s; Jan 8, 2020 at 10:41 PM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,846
Likes: 173
From: Simi Valley, CA
To the OP (and anyone else that's starts their bike in gear on a regular basis).
Why?
Do you realize how much additional and unnecessary stress you are imparting to the starter system? Especially when cold.
Why?
Do you realize how much additional and unnecessary stress you are imparting to the starter system? Especially when cold.
