oil pump removal.
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oil pump removal.
Well it appears that the check valve preventing the flow of oil to the crank when the engine is off is having problems on my 65. I was reading the service manual about removal of the oil pump and it indicates that the engiine needs to be removed from the frame. Is this true? The scavenger seems to be fine as well as the pressure side of the pump. Can't lap the check vavle on the bike soooo it has to come off. Any help would be a big help!!
Red
Red
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RE: oil pump removal.
the pump should come right out, i have a 59 Duo Glide that i have changed the pump with the engine in the frame. you have toremove all your push rods to take the pressure off of the cam, to remove the cam cover, or you can do it with the cover on, you just have to be carefull when installing because the shaft will push inward and then you lose the little woodruff keys then you have to take the cam cover off anyways. CLYMER work shop manual has pretty good instuctions on the removel and installation of the oil pump. hope this helps.
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Santa Klaus County, Cali
RE: oil pump removal.
redinthehead...you can only remove the oil pump as a unit if the engine is removed from the frame; you can however disassemble it piece by piece...
1. disconnect oil lines
2. remove nuts and washers or bolts and lockwashers from gearcase studs that hold oil pump cover in place
3. remove oil pump cover and gasket
4. remove lock ring, drive gear, gear key and idler gear
5. remove two oil pump body mounting stud nuts and slip pump body off studs and gear drive shaft
6. remove drive gear, key and idler gear.
This should get you to where you can do the work on the check valve.
And wreck74 is dead-on regarding reinstall, the shaft and the damn woodruff keys.
1. disconnect oil lines
2. remove nuts and washers or bolts and lockwashers from gearcase studs that hold oil pump cover in place
3. remove oil pump cover and gasket
4. remove lock ring, drive gear, gear key and idler gear
5. remove two oil pump body mounting stud nuts and slip pump body off studs and gear drive shaft
6. remove drive gear, key and idler gear.
This should get you to where you can do the work on the check valve.
And wreck74 is dead-on regarding reinstall, the shaft and the damn woodruff keys.
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Joined: May 2007
Posts: 15
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RE: oil pump removal.
Red,
sometimes the best results can be had by burnishing the check valve seat. This does not require removal of the pump body from the motor! Tom Cotton at Liberty Cycles has sold these burnishers in the past. It's a bolt with a ball bearing silver-soldered to the end of it. You screw it into the check valve hole, tighten down on it good 3 times -- and presto -- no more leak (oil sumping). A burnisher sort of "moves" the metal around instead of grinding it away. It makes for a much better seal.
For more info, you can search on the hydra-glide board in the Panhead area for burnisher:
http://panhead.proboards1.com/
You'll find Cotton's email/address if you need to order a burnisher. If you're handy with a silver solder and a propane torch, you could easily make one. Pictures of oil pump check valve burnishers are on that site.
Hope this helps...
sometimes the best results can be had by burnishing the check valve seat. This does not require removal of the pump body from the motor! Tom Cotton at Liberty Cycles has sold these burnishers in the past. It's a bolt with a ball bearing silver-soldered to the end of it. You screw it into the check valve hole, tighten down on it good 3 times -- and presto -- no more leak (oil sumping). A burnisher sort of "moves" the metal around instead of grinding it away. It makes for a much better seal.
For more info, you can search on the hydra-glide board in the Panhead area for burnisher:
http://panhead.proboards1.com/
You'll find Cotton's email/address if you need to order a burnisher. If you're handy with a silver solder and a propane torch, you could easily make one. Pictures of oil pump check valve burnishers are on that site.
Hope this helps...
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RE: oil pump removal.
All of you are full of great knowledge! I appreciate the comments. The burnishing tool sounds intersting. I called ANTIQUE CYCLE SUPPLY to order a new check ball and spring and he said that I can drop the new ball in and tap it with a brass drift, sounds almost the same funtion as the burnisher.
thank All!!
Red
thank All!!
Red
Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 207
Likes: 1
RE: oil pump removal.
ORIGINAL: panz4ever
redinthehead...you can only remove the oil pump as a unit if the engine is removed from the frame; you can however disassemble it piece by piece...
1. disconnect oil lines
2. remove nuts and washers or bolts and lockwashers from gearcase studs that hold oil pump cover in place
3. remove oil pump cover and gasket
4. remove lock ring, drive gear, gear key and idler gear
5. remove two oil pump body mounting stud nuts and slip pump body off studs and gear drive shaft
6. remove drive gear, key and idler gear.
This should get you to where you can do the work on the check valve.
And wreck74 is dead-on regarding reinstall, the shaft and the damn woodruff keys.
redinthehead...you can only remove the oil pump as a unit if the engine is removed from the frame; you can however disassemble it piece by piece...
1. disconnect oil lines
2. remove nuts and washers or bolts and lockwashers from gearcase studs that hold oil pump cover in place
3. remove oil pump cover and gasket
4. remove lock ring, drive gear, gear key and idler gear
5. remove two oil pump body mounting stud nuts and slip pump body off studs and gear drive shaft
6. remove drive gear, key and idler gear.
This should get you to where you can do the work on the check valve.
And wreck74 is dead-on regarding reinstall, the shaft and the damn woodruff keys.
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