Yes in CT., but not an exchange. He takes your original and completely goes thru it, right down to the core. Things like new terminals, brass nuts, paint and such are just s.o.p. for his servicing.

It is my inderstanding that the Model 65 was a one-year only generator. In 1966 they switched to the Model 65A and that was the standard until HD came out with the alternator Shovels in 1970.

Parts book does not list the Model 65, just the Model 65A.

 

the difference was a mistake harley made in that the A term and the F term was in the same place as a 6 volt so right away they confused the field and fried the generator and or regulator by installing a 6 volt in a 12 bike and vice A versa - so the 65 A it was switch to make it different - i was under the impression it was a 1/2 year thing as the nonsense was right away or it would have been - 66 and not - 65A

 

Reason I thought it might be an exchange is the letters stamped just above the Harley Davidson stamp in your before photo are not on your after photo. Must be the glare...or did he grind and polish them off?

 

Grind polish and paint to make it look new again.

 

The difference between the left and right muffler support brackets #65318-58 (right) & #65318-59 (left) Big Twin Models (courtesy of Palmers 3rd ed.)

Both are 15-3/16" in length. They both are 1-13/32" in width at the two rear cross tube holes. However the two front left side cross tube holes are 1-1/8" wide; the two front right side cross tube holes are 1-3/8" wide.

#65318-58 is used for single exhaust systems & dual right side exhaust system for 1958-1970 models and left side dual exhaust system for 1958 models.

#65318-59 is used for dual left side exhaust systems for 1959-1970 models.

 

Most of August was just short days in the garage and working until the temps got into the 90s. Have to say when I was younger the heat was manageable. Not now not at 73. September rolls around and finally the 25+ days of triple digits breaks. Takes a few days to catch up on my yard. Spend many more redoing 32 feet of fencing (includes diigging out and setting three new posts) and rebuilding one of two side gates. What sucks is that next Spring I am going to have to redo another seven fence posts. The three that I replaced on the B-side I used galvanized anchors so that I will not ever again have to dig out cement. The seven I need to replace are in a cement patio so I am going to have to use a saw to make my cuts and then use a jack hammer to get the posts out. The galvanized anchors will be used on those seven as well. The anchors are not cheap at $28 each but it sure beats having to deal with digging out cement.

After that I finally installed a fan in the overhead in the master bedroom, got one of two glass chandaliers cleaned (the other gets cleaned this weekend) and diassamebled and cleaned the two fan motor components on the hood over the stove. Then came the routine maintenance needed for the 64 El Camino.

Finally got to doing a bit more on the 65 and spent the afternoon on some self-inflicted pain management fitting this to the bike.




Anyone have a parkerized 1/4-28 x 1-1/2" bolt they want to get rid of?

The bolts for the original chain guard are 5/16" bolts. The enclosed chain guard uses 1/4" bolts that go thru the 5/16" holes and into the enclosed chain guard that has 1/4" nuts welded on the chain guard. Took a while to figure how it all mounted. Had to do a bit of filing to get it to fit properly. Ended up removing the saddlebag mount because I could not get the top portion (it is a two-piece system) in place with the bag mount. And I am going to have to run the lower bolt for the crashbar inside out because there is not enough room to get a washer and nut in place.

Good news is that after getting it to fit, I raised the rear end and rotated the tire and the chain did not rub on the enclosed chain guard. Obviously this is not te easiest way to keep the oil from slinging off the chain (that would be using an O-ring chain), but it is a correct factory accessory for 1965 FLH models and heck what's a little more chrome right?

This is an NOS piece that appears to have never been mounted. That said the "chrome" factory finish, like that of the exhaust, really sucks bilge water. So tomorrow it all comes off and next week I will drive up to Sherms in Sacramento to have it and a couple of other parts rechromed.

 

So herz a question for the group. Yesterday afternoon I was fitting the exhaust system to the bike. All the components sans the crossover pipe are OEM/NOS.

When I was fitting the aftermarket one to the bike the fitment to the rear header pipe and to the tab on the outer primary was fine. What I forgot to take into account (and after I had the aftermarket piece chromed) was the clutch lever pull rod for the rocker clutch. With the aftermarket crossover pipe mounted, the pull rod rubs on the underside of the pipe and bows the rod. And I am thinking that it will affect how the tranny engages and disengages. With the original pipe the pull rod clearances the underside by about 3/16" and of course fits the OEM rear header pipe like a glove.

I had my original stripped so that I could check out how badly it was pitted. Unforfunately some things just are not going to "buff out". My concern is that if I try to remove the pitting for plating (I did in one spot but not heavy) the walls will be too thin in that area and quickly punch through or crack. Most of it is behind the rear cylinder. Some is near the outer curve in the area where it goes by the solenoid (my exhaust cover for the crossover shoudl cover some of it tho). And I have an ugly dent on the curve that will definitely be visible.









Now comes the question (sorry for the long explanation). Can this be brazed? Won"t the temp between the brazing material and the metal in the pipe expand at different rates when the pipe heats up and cause the brazing and chrome to crack?

So if it can be done, there are afew differfent types of filler used:

• Aluminum-silicon
• Copper
• Copper-silver
• Copper-zinc (brass)
• Copper-tin (bronze
• Gold-silver
• Nickel alloy
• Silver

So I would assume brass?

And here I actually thought I got luckey and was going tp escape the nightmare that hellownewman had with his aftermarket crossover pipe.

 

we have in the past used a rubber plug we made from a rubber freeze out engine plug - that let us tighten it in place and did the same other end but installed with marine epoxy a air shrader - then we added air pressure heated the dent - yours is tighter so we would drill a hole in the big dent long nose plyers slide a 10 24 screw out the hole - then use a dent puller with hi heat and pull most of it out your covering it with brass so its less brass and heat

 

You could also fill the dent with mig wire or welding rod if you were concerned about different expansion rates. But I think you would be fine with brazing.

 

Magnetic drain plug (#60348-65) for aluminum outer primary. Are the threads the standard 1/2 x 20 or is it a pipe thread?