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Spent the afternoon taking the exhaust system apart in order to install the S-Y pipe and the crossover for the dual exhaust. Forgot that in order to remove the S-Y pipe I have to remove the right floorboard, master cylinder, front header pipe (which also means the bar for the lower front sidecar assembly). But at least it is all back together.
Took a moment to check and see how the modified right saddle bag will look once on the bike. Clearance should be fine. Now i just need to get it to my painter along with the tub.
Well getting closer to starting but before doing so I wanted the rear brakes functional. I added DOT 5 and of course as soon as I thought had it functioning the master cylinder started to leak past the pushrod. The master cylinder was a replacemet I had sitting around and had installed while I had my original re-sleeved by Apple Hydraulics out of New York. I had hoped it would work but not to be.
Resleeved m/c ready to put the guts in.
Added Speed Bleeders in place of stock bleeder vlaves. Only way to go doing the job by myslef. Able to press down on the pedal and watch the fluid on the other end using one of my wifes old round 5 inch vanity mirrors. And of course you fix one leak and two more pop up...from the fitting coming out of the master cylinder and from behind the banjo fitting that goes into the cylinder behind the brake backing plate. I also added the line that will eventually go to the sidecar. I plugged the end until needed.
This afternoon I took the lines apart, cleaned them, added thread sealant and reattached. So far no leaks. I will do one more cherck tomoroow.
Last edited by panz4ever; Sep 1, 2022 at 01:57 AM.
And of course you fix one leak and two more pop up...from the fitting coming out of the master cylinder and from behind the banjo fitting that goes into the cylinder behind the brake backing plate..
Same thing happens here too! One of the benefits of mechanical brakes haha, actually its the only benefit to having mechanical brakes.
I have a detail related question, the rear sprocket finish. Should the drum be painted without a sprocket and a parkerized sprocket is installed later? Im pretty sure thats the way they are on the older bikes which Im not inclined to do incase I break the drum.
Should the drum be painted without a sprocket and a parkerized sprocket is installed later? Im pretty sure thats the way they are on the older bikes which Im not inclined to do incase I break the drum.
I painted the sprocket along with the drum. Not sure which way it came & couldn't locate any info on it, but I figure the chain is going to remove any finish on there once the rear wheel gets a few miles down the road.
I painted the sprocket along with the drum. Not sure which way it came & couldn't locate any info on it, but I figure the chain is going to remove any finish on there once the rear wheel gets a few miles down the road.
Palmer doesn't mention it. I may parkerize the sprocket portion of the drum then mask it off to paint the drum itself. The paint wont come off the sides of the sprocket so the visual is different. Im still trying to verify that is the correct look though.
Well one leaked is stopped, the other worse. Tomorrow I once again take apart the fitting at the end of the master cylinder. It is leaking at the top of the fitting. The line itself is aftermarket. The original was lost when I had it sent out for plating. Hopefully I can get it to seal.
On the flip side, I pulled out the components needed to get the modified right saddlebag together along with the left saddlebag. The modified right side has a smooth inside meaning I will need to match it. I previously noted and found that the bags are slightly differeht between the smooth side and those with the cut-outs inb them. Along with that the lids are also slightly different.
So with the hack one set of bags will be replaced by another once I have the modified bag redone.
The components necessary to attach to the mounts
...and more importantly the locking mechanism (with a #43 key)
..and instructions as well. What I found as interesting on the instruction sheet... a revised locking mechanism to make the bags more secure
Palnmer's 3rd edition (Vol 2) discusses several different sets of 1963 and later saddlebags with reference to the locks but provides no pictures unfortunately. Seems to be clear however that it didn't take MoCo long to figure out the inital design sucked bilge water. Makes me wonder how many lids were lost and abandoned on the side of the road becuase the locking mechanism just did not function as intended.
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