I am sorry if I am being vague with the numbering. I am not sure what, if anything, I should be sharing on the internet or with anyone. What do I need to do to protect myself from possible fraud by sharing additional information? I watched a video the other night with a cool dude and "greenie" (among many other bikes, he is a walking museum) he was not worried about sharing SN because he had "registered" the bike with somebody. In today's world I do not want to unknowingly provide enough information for someone to make a claim to my scooter. I have a clear title but the DMV is closed due to this virus BS so cannot get titled at this time and I am not sure a clear title stops the fraudsters anyway.

The SN is definitely between 1001 and 15000.

Had my daughter with better eyes help me tonight. Thanks to the 2 indent locator you provided she identified a "C" with numbers following it. The first number is not the same as the fork stop number.

I also had her look at the transmission. There is indeed a letter preceding the numbers, it is not a "B", "C" or "D" and it appears to be further down the alphabet.

And the middle light on the console which is the neutral light is green when illuminated.

 

Groucho-17GS I truly understand the concern. That said I am really noty sure how someone/anyone is going to "steal" your VIN# and have it magically appear on a title slip from whatever State they are from. There are numbered stamps out there for sure, but anyone with any degree of intelligence can look at a VIN plate and see if it is legit...or not. Sorry but you cannot fake the real deal.

Numbers on my case if this helps you




So with the VIN# posted I suppose someone could fake a claim and call it in as stolen, but after the dust settles 1. they have to prove they owned this prior to 1970 and 2. they are now nothing more than prey.

 

Scott, no need to be sorry re the numbering. I understand completely.
Regarding ‘greenie’, did that person have TB as his initials? If so, please pay no attention if he talks about H-D SN characters. In particular I’ve seen TB rattle on about SNs for certain 36–37 Knuckles and a certain 64 Pan and his info was bad in the extreme.
Anyway, for comparison of some characters here are two more 65s that may help.





Straight-back 6 applied vertically. (If your SN is very low the decade 6 may be applied diagonally with the top pointing to the right.)
F, L and H obviously sans serif. Notice the upper horizontal stroke of the F is longer than the lower stroke but not by much.
Notice above the F there is a nick in the edge of the SN boss but it seems to be a flaw in the casting and is very common. Also notice the case has an indent immediately above the nick but this too is normal for a lot of Pan cases.
Notice the H has its cross-bar a bit higher than centre. (Sometimes you’ll see the H upside down.)
The 1 has a wide/long horizontal serif across the base. Top serif is at about forty-five degrees and slightly curved.
The 3 has a flat top, a short vertical serif at top left and a medium-length diagonal.

Let me know if you need more info. And if you’d like examples for comparison of your 64 Pan SN let me know and I’ll post them in your 64 thread. (At least two different 4s in the year portion for 1964 SNs.)

Notice the bases of the cylinders have logos and they represent Motor Castings Company in Milwaukee. For H-D Panhead cylinders the MCC logos were present for 64–65 and most 63s also have them.

C on your frame is consistent with 1965. (D was also used.)

Several possibilities left to consider for the trans case.
1966: E, F or G
1967: E
1968: E
1969: E or F
1970: F or G
1971: G or H
1972: H, J or K
1973: K or L
1974: L, M or N
1975: N, P or R
1976: R, S, T, U or V
1977: V, W or X
1978: Y or Z
Letters I, O and Q were skipped. Double letters may have started about late-78 or 79.

I don’t know exactly how H-D assigned the additional ID so it’s possible your trans may well be a 65 but with a letter not normally used for that model year. It’s also possible the trans case was a replacement and if so it may have received a letter reflecting the year it was produced. Casting number underneath may be 34703 65 which was used for 1965 to about early-77 but it could be 34703 77 or 34709 78. Underneath may be a date code identifying the month and year the trans case was cast.
Eric

 

Panz - thanks for sharing. I know of at least 2 states that filing for a lost title is easily done and not well regulated by the state. You are correct I would probably come out on top but don't want the hassle. My numbers, font wise, align with your SN numbers. I do believe this is the actual SN on the case.

Speeding BT - As I stated to Panz everything appears to align with his picture and with your descriptions above. I did find the 34703 65 number on the bottom of the trans case. Could not see any other numbers. The anti-theft number on the front of the trans case shows it to be an early to mid 70s case. Below are pictures of the left axle clip you requested. Let me know if this is what you wanted.

 

Well she runs!!! Have a video of her starting but can't figure out how to upload. Used starter fluid and she started right up until the fluid ran out. Never did get her running on gas and now she won't start with ether. I opened the petcock and after a few minutes had some gas come out of small hole on the left side of carb when looking at the carb. Hole appears to be on top of the bowl. This is a Linkert carb. I twisted the throttle and do not see gas squirting into the carb throat. I checked spark on both cylinders and it was good. I assume the Linkert is going to need to be rebuilt. Does anyone have any other ideas on troubleshooting that I should go after first? I am stoked that she started, should be going down the road on her in a week or two.

 

duplicate

 

...after a few minutes had some gas come out...

If you disconnect the line from the tank to the carb, if/when you open up the valve/gas line, gas shoudl be immediately (or almost) be coming out of the line. "After a few minutes some comes out" is not the norm. Suggestion...pull tanks and flush them out. Pull carb and do a basic rebuild (parts kits are cheap and simple to install). I wodn't atomatically "assume" the entire carb needs a rebuild. It had been sitting for a spell, might just need a refresh on the basic small parts.

 

Thanks. Those pictures are exactly what was needed. The brake hose clamp screw first appeared in that position about later-67 and it then remained there through 1972.

The run number is upside down as it often is when in that location and it looks like H35? If so, it helps indicate the swingarm is about a 1971 model. If you ever have things apart, inside that axle clip you’ll find forging number 47614-58B followed by hallmark A and a die number which may be about 15.

Outside the R-H axle clip you’ll find forging number 47606-58 and a hallmark that looks like the letter Q with WF inside it. Also on the outside will be a die number although there can be some variation in them because the combination of numbers on some swingarms indicate the forgings were not always used in the order in which they were produced. My best guess on the die number would be 71 or 72.

Why doesn’t the axle finish proud of the nut? Is it the wrong axle?
Eric

 

Thanks Panz will pull the fuel line today and see how well the gas flows. To be clear the gas that came out was from a hole on top of bowl, outside of the carb. Gas ran down the outside of the carb. Went into garage this morning and smelled gas. The petcock is closed however the carb is wet with gas in the same area, see picture below. Looks like the petcock may need a freshen up as well. The numbers on the right side of carb are 1 1/2 Mod M and below that is 2-418. Was looking at website Linkertcarbs.com. I assume you are talking about the kits like L1.5HK for $65 and not the complete rebuild kits such as M51 that are $450. I have a M74 B model. Just found number location watching a rebuild video.

Speeding BT - thanks for the info. Disappointed the swingarm is a different year but oh well. I don't understand this question - "Why doesn’t the axle finish proud of the nut? Is it the wrong axle?" Not sure what "proud" means unless it means outside face of the nut? I obviously do not have that answer but am sure I will find out at some point.

Sorry the pictures aren't better, can't seem to get the light right and the camera to focus properly.


Numbers on right side of carb.

Directly behind the adjustment screw (not sure if this is idle or fuel/air mix) is the hole gas is coming out of. You can see there are numbers on this side as well but I cannot make them out.

 

The head of the axle looks chrome so probably a repop and without looking in the book I would think it should be parkerized no?