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Hey, be very, very careful with starting fluid and Linkerts, many a bike has burned to the ground that way, seriously.
Linkerts do not have accelerator pumps, so you will not see a "squirt" when you goose the throttle.
Start with Panz's suggestion of confirming that you have good flow to the carb. Then drop the bowl (very easy) and see what the float looks like. Chances are it is old, maybe brass or cork. Find a source for a "Rubber Ducky" float, get it installed. Be Jedi Master obsessed with setting the float height perfectly level.
After all of that, you may still need to do a full carb rebuild, new float needle etc. Also I assume you have a fuel shutoff valve and not a petcock. The seat on them can get old. I replaced with a newer version with a PEEK needle, 100% does not leak. But that is further down the road.
Thanks Architect - Will be doing the flow test today, unless I go riding. I was very stringent with the starter fluid, just a puff. I am done with that now as I know the bike will start and run. Looks like this morning I have leakage at the bowl to body connection as well. My suspicion is all the gaskets are dry rotted. And yes I do have the original through tank petcock with no other shut off valve in the line. Haven't researched how that works or how to rebuild but will. Is there a "fake" original petcock that leaves the lever on top of tank but has a manual valve under the tank? I see the crossover from the right tank comes in at a point under the tank that appears to be part of the petcock.
The minor carb rebuild kits (gaskets, some parts (float, needles, etc) I am finding at large parts stores do not specify which model of carb they fit.
The will sell you a complete fuel shutoff with a new seat and the rod has a PEEK tip. I re-used my original **** and rusty screw that you see from above so it still looks period correct. But everything internal is his, and it does not leak, at all.
Todays Update - What I learned: Mike's garage is a great resource, the petcock only opens when you pull up on the handle, when pulled up the flow of gas was good, the bowl won't come off if the copper washer is still stuck on it, the valve cover oil returns have to be removed to get to the bottom bolt of the lower carb bracket, the lower bolt for the carb bracket is a thru bolt that you have to push towards the left side of the bike to get the bracket out.
So when I dropped the bowl "nut" there was a large deposit of sludge which worried me. Also there was not a spring under it to hold the emulsion tube so I decided to pull the carb off the bike. I had a helluva time getting the emulsion tube out but finally did, see picture below for what I found. I have not been able to get the venturi tube out yet, currently soaking in PB Blaster.
What is a good rebuild kit for this carb?
Last edited by Groucho-17SGS; Apr 12, 2020 at 06:40 PM.
Speeding BT - thanks for the info. Disappointed the swingarm is a different year but oh well. I don't understand this question - "Why doesnt the axle finish proud of the nut? Is it the wrong axle?" Not sure what "proud" means unless it means outside face of the nut? I obviously do not have that answer but am sure I will find out at some point.
Yes the axle should finish outside the nut. (proud: projecting beyond the surrounding elements or objects.)
According to Palmer the rear axle should be 11-1/2 long. The R-H end has two flats which mate with the flats inside the axle clip. The R-H end has a 1-1/4 hex head welded on but its hard to be sure about yours due to the chroming. Yours looks smooth but that could have been done by anyone. It is possible however that in this instance the chrome may indicate AM as Paul suggested. Im not sure if 65 E-Glides originally had a parkerized rear axle but it was parkerized for 195864 Duo-Glides.
Eric
I had the same thing with no spring under the tube!! Bike ran OK for about 6 months before it finally freed itself and slid down into the bowl. And since I never saw a spring, I didn't know it was missing!?!?!?! Fun with old bikes.
Brass float is no bueno, they get pin holes, fill up with fuel and sink, meaning they don't float. Rubber Ducky is the answer.
Pulling up on the fuel shutoff rod is putting it on reserve. So something is gummed up in there, needs a good cleaning. Sitting around is the enemy of these bikes for sure. Honestly all of that gunk is a good thing, smoking gun as why you are having issues. But now you are all in. I use 45 Restoration for my needs, he may not have for your carb. Give these guys a call:
Thanks Architect I ordered rebuild kit, rubber ducky and intake gaskets from them. Figured instead of going through the testing hassles just replace them. Haven't managed to get the venture tube out of the carb body, any suggestions?
Speeding BT - thanks for clarification. I'm gonna get the engine running and then head to the wheels. Will pull the axle at that time and see what the story is.
I really do appreciate all the help everyone is providing. I am learning as fast as I can. I am trying to maintain this as fun so when I get a little frustrated I just step back for awhile. Now if I could get some help on the switches on the POS Cycleworks chopper I am rewiring.
Thanks Architect I ordered rebuild kit, rubber ducky and intake gaskets from them. Figured instead of going through the testing hassles just replace them. Haven't managed to get the venture tube out of the carb body, any suggestions?
Speeding BT - thanks for clarification. I'm gonna get the engine running and then head to the wheels. Will pull the axle at that time and see what the story is.
I really do appreciate all the help everyone is providing. I am learning as fast as I can. I am trying to maintain this as fun so when I get a little frustrated I just step back for awhile. Now if I could get some help on the switches on the POS Cycleworks chopper I am rewiring.
I think its a love / hate relationship as it is with any old vehicle. I know Ive gone through my ups and downs but I keep coming back for more.
The venturi tube, in my opinion, only needs to be removed if it needs to be replaced. If it is in there solid, and no light is visible between the carb body and the outside of the venturi, I would just leave it there. Hold it up to a bright light and look all around the the seam. My 2 cents.
thanks Architect. it is all sitting in the parts cleaner right now. Will look at the venture / body gap when I get them out.
I really need help on the custom bike I have if anyone could. Posted in custom forum, the thread concerning switches. I am at a loss and need to get the bike out of my shop.
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