Going thru my stash last evenening. Thinking about using this 12 volt generatror on the bike. It has never been mounted. Haven't a clue when I bought it and what for. Can someone please tell me the brand/make? (I have two OEM generators, one of which I know for sure needs a rebuild.) This would work as long it is not cheap junk.

 

They dont send the TOB you have to have now plus shipping so its another 100 bucks did not know you were ordering it already

the c stands for china - yea they work better if you have an electronic regulator

 

Thanks John, pulled the one off his bike and it has the same markings so I guess i'll use it. And using a Cycle Electric voltage regulator, so I should be okay.
And speaking of that.. Any way to test the regulator to see if it is functioning properly. Looks like crap from exposure, but if I can test it and it tests out good it will save a few bucks (then its just a matter of some paint to make it pretty again). Both regulator and generator are now off the bike.

 

Its the 2 light regulator - have not seen that in 25 years my guess its still good

before i had a generator machine we used a HD drill and spun the end of the gen it turns CCW in place - ground
it to a battery 12 volt the black to the reg - hook up a volt meter digit is easier to see - if the green comes on that’s the gen light from memory

but connect a test light to the arm terminal and the other end to 12 volts at the battery - spin it as the test light is your gen light for the test

if it works brushes - and new bearings sealed ones you re pack with the green grease wil last 10 years

 

K... digging around I found a couple of timers that I have had in my stash for at least 25 years. Neither has ever been on a bike. I think I got them for my 52 chopped Pan back in '98 (never installed because I sold the bike as a down payment for my daughter's college education). So, any recommendation on either, good or bad. Found installation instructions on line on both but no parts diagram for either.

Mallory Model #A556 for 36-69 HD Big Twins



Twin Power #21-7582 for 1936-1969 HD Big Twins

 

Coming apart......







My niece will be here in two weeks to visit. I'll keep it as a roller while we get the foot controls figured out for her.

In the mean time, the motor will be coming apart. Hopefully it is just a matter of some light work.

 

Now you did it, pulling apart a running motorcycle!?!?!?!

Back to your electronic ignition question, I run Ebeyond 2000 in the Flathead, I know John likes them for other bikes he has as well. Installs in a stock dizzy and away you go. Matching ohms with the coil is the only thing to be mindful of, and it looks stock.

Good luck.

 

Yeah, unfortunately, in order to repaint cylinders, take all the scale off the cases, re-chrome lifter blocks and cam cover. Gives me a chance to inspect the flywheels and rods once I split the cases. Wondering how much oil is in there. Oil bag was less than half full. Nice thing is that there is a drain plug down low on the left-side case. When I took off the heads I noticed one stripped out valve cover screw, so that needs to be addressed as well. Be interesting to see what kind of shape valves are in.

Ebeyond is definitely a nice set up. Just thinking about trying to use what I have in order to keep some of the costs down is all. Sold the 96 EVO to help with this rebuild so I am going to do my best to keep it within what I got from that plus what she has given me. I think chrome and paint are going to be the most expensive (outside of the e-start of course).

 

I bought a Mallory A556 timer for my Pan several years ago. (I had already converted to 12-volt.) I set it up as per the instructions and I’ve had no trouble with it.

Re the footpegs, when I had my Shovel I put front pegs in the same positions as on that 50 and I did the same with my first Pan for a few years. I’m tall enough to reach the pegs easily but later I moved them back a couple of inches because I felt more comfortable with my knees bent. Both my footpegs are H-D passenger and I had the inside of the footpeg supports machined to accommodate a socket-head cap screw (Allen-head) so the hole in the frame remains 3/8” UNC. Here’s the R-H side.





On the left side I cut the front section off the shift lever bracket.





I altered my shift lever to act as a clutch pedal but if you’re keeping the footshift you may be able to shorten the lever a bit to make it easier to reach?
Eric

 

First I heard you had a bike. Lets see!