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'49 FL Project

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Old Mar 31, 2025 | 05:44 PM
  #51  
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K...soooo a bit of surprise. I had the cylinders re-sleeved to stock before having them vapor blasted. Got them back and saw this - doesn't go all the way nor all the way through



Initially I thought it might have happened when being re-sleeved, but I went back to my original pics, blew them and it is there, just all grungy and such.

Talked to my machinist's friend (hez down south and been building bikes since forever, but I do not know him personally). Sent him the pic and he stated the obvious, if I'd seen it before re-sleevening it could have bee brazed (believe that is the word he used). That said, he believes it would not be an issue.

So looking for some inoyt from the. group here. Is it okay to use or will it eventually grenade?

And.......I do have another front cylinder but it too has some issues. (why I did not use it)


If the top one is a risk, I assume I will need to have the bottom repaired before being re-sleeved.

Bothe are 48-49 only FL cylinders




 
Attached Thumbnails '49 FL Project-img_5210-m.jpg   '49 FL Project-img_5210-m.jpg  

Last edited by panz4ever; Mar 31, 2025 at 05:48 PM.
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Old Mar 31, 2025 | 06:04 PM
  #52  
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I'd be concerned about the crack. The amount of vibration from all the moving parts is likely to cause the crack to grow. And it's not something you can easily keep an eye on, I'd look for an alternative.

Sorry

Paul
 
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Old Mar 31, 2025 | 07:25 PM
  #53  
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I’m with Paul—but OTOH why couldn’t you just weld it, then spec the bore to eliminate out-of-round distortion, and refinish it with a flex hone?
 
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Old Mar 31, 2025 | 07:54 PM
  #54  
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Couple things I don't understand.

Where is the sleeve?

Seems to me that the guy sleeving, should inspect the cylinder for defects..
 
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Old Apr 1, 2025 | 10:41 AM
  #55  
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Panz, Cracks are like Rust, they never sleep. You probably already know this, to properly fix a crack you need to drill out the leading edge of the crack (sometimes hard to get all of it, and if you don't it will continue to crack) cut out the crack itself and weld up, then machine the surfaces. I personally do not like to weld cast iron, sometimes it works sometimes not. You would spend a lot of time effort and money on a part that I would not trust, If it were me I'd find a replacement cylinder and start over.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2025 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by BB.No8
Panz, Cracks are like Rust, they never sleep. You probably already know this, to properly fix a crack you need to drill out the leading edge of the crack (sometimes hard to get all of it, and if you don't it will continue to crack) cut out the crack itself and weld up, then machine the surfaces. I personally do not like to weld cast iron, sometimes it works sometimes not. You would spend a lot of time effort and money on a part that I would not trust, If it were me I'd find a replacement cylinder and start over.
Took down the one I thought was the better of the two. What about brazing? Will the heat distort the configuration and the re-sleeving of this one?

My other alternative also needs some work



This too is a 48-49 FL front cylinder. So since in it's still original state, can his be brazed where something nibbled on it, so that I can re-sleeve it to stock













 
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Old Apr 1, 2025 | 04:36 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Max Headflow
Couple things I don't understand.

Where is the sleeve?

Seems to me that the guy sleeving, should inspect the cylinder for defects..
You can see the sleeves in this pic. And they would have had to look really, really close to see it. Cylinders were really ugly on the outside. Like I stated I did not see it and I took lots of pics before dropping them off.


 
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Old Apr 1, 2025 | 05:54 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by panz4ever
Took down the one I thought was the better of the two. What about brazing? Will the heat distort the configuration and the re-sleeving of this one?

My other alternative also needs some work



This too is a 48-49 FL front cylinder. So since in it's still original state, can his be brazed where something nibbled on it, so that I can re-sleeve it to stock
Panz, I'm not really sure. If it were a matter of just smoothing out and radiusing the chipped area I think you would be alright as long as you removed any crack that might have started. But boring out the cylinders and putting in a sleeve might change the equation. I'd check with a professional engine builder about if it is feasible., Where is JohnJZ and Twisted when you need them.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2025 | 08:45 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by panz4ever
You can see the sleeves in this pic. And they would have had to look really, really close to see it. Cylinders were really ugly on the outside. Like I stated I did not see it and I took lots of pics before dropping them off.

Got it.. It's hard to see in the pick where the crack in the sleeve cutaway..

I'd run that cylinder. You got a new sleeve and the cylinder spigot OD simply supports the sleeve when the piston is at BDC.. The old part of the spigot is simply a light backup.. The sleeve is new 2000s sleeve material. Look at how thin the TC big bore kits cut the bottom sleeve.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2025 | 09:36 PM
  #60  
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As heartbreaking as it is.. I wouldn’t run it. Maybe it would hold… maybe it wouldn’t, but I’d never trust once assembled. I’d be thinking about that crack every mile.
I saw a cone shovel once during a tare down where a guy JB welded a spicket right by a stud.. the crack went about 4 inches. More ***** than I got. Sometimes people get lucky… that ain’t me.
 

Last edited by Rains2much; Apr 1, 2025 at 09:39 PM.
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